(Originally published 11 May 2018.)
Over the years, I’ve had very little wine from this Leflaive, the reason being that I never found anything interesting that made me want to try more. A couple of years ago that began to change, and others also seemed to notice something going on here. Curiously, this occurred despite the fact that Frank Grux, who has been in charge of making the wines since 1988, still remains at the head of winemaking.
Over the years, I’ve had very little wine from this Leflaive, the reason being that I never found anything interesting that made me want to try more. A couple of years ago that began to change, and others also seemed to notice something going on here. Curiously, this occurred despite the fact that Frank Grux, who has been in charge of making the wines since 1988, still remains at the head of winemaking.
When I inquired of the domaine, I was told that the grapes are now harvested a bit earlier than before, less new oak is used, and there is less bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) than before. Whether that’s the full story or if there’s more to be told, these wines show that there are wines worthy of interest now.
2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Sétilles
This wine is mineral and round with good depth and energy for a Bourgogne. 88/A
2016 Auxey-Duresses
This wine is broad in the mouth with some minerality, lemon peel flavors, and a hint of finesse. 88+/B+
2016 Meursault
The Meursault displays good lemony fruit, purity, and nervosity. 91+/A
2016 Puligny-Montrachet
The Puligny has lemony fruit, purity, medium weight, and some force to it. 91+/A
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot
Leflaive's Chassagne-Abbaye de Morgeot is layered, long, and mineral with stoniness, concentration, finesse, and some richness. This is excellent wine. 92+/A
2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
The Folatières has some oiliness of texture and some minerality, but it seems not yet to have fully come together. 90(+)/B+
2016 Bâtard-Montrachet
The Bâtard-Montrachet likewise has not yet come together, but one can see the elements with minerality and layering. 93+/A-