My visit in November 2018 was with Jacques Devagues, who since has left Clos de Tart to make the wines from the neighboring vineyard, Clos des Lambrays, and other wines from Domaine des Lambrays.
The sale of Clos de Tart had been announced in 2017, just before my visit that year to Clos de Tart. Although Jacques did not say so on my 2018 visit, it was evident that a transition to the more modern style from new-sister estate Domaine d’Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée was coming (and hence not surprising that Jacques would be leaving).
Frost did not affect almost all of Morey-Saint-Denis in 2016, so Clos de Tart is one of the relatively few Côte d’Or estates to have produced less wine in 2017 than 2016 (32 hl/ha vs. 35 hl/ha). 2017 was the third year of organic cultivation and second of biodynamic, both started under Jacques. He said that his goal was to get yields down to 30 hl/ha. I don’t know the goals of the management following his departure.
Jacques said that 2017 was a cold winter, but then in March it turned warm — the warmest March there since 1957. Bud burst was on 30 March and flowering took place on 1 and 2 June, with a quick development. July and August were favorable, and so harvesting took place between 6 and 10 September. Malo-lactic fermentations took finished in May, which is the normal time here.
Contrary to previous vintages under Jacques and before him, Sylvain Pitiot, blending was in July rather than just prior to bottling. The blending included all the plots except the youngest vines, which date from 1999, 2005, and 2011.
2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Forge de Tart
This is where the youngest vines went. The nose and mouth show spicy red fruits typical of the terroir. The mouth has good definition and raciness with finesse, minerality, lightness, a smooth and a smooth texture. It is a fruit-driven wine for early and medium-term drinking. No whole clusters here. (91-93)
2017 Clos de Tart
The grand vin shows more depth with its characteristic spicy red fruit and lots of freshness. The wine has firmness and some juiciness, and although still quite young, is clearly Clos de Tart. 60% whole clusters. The average age of the vines is 60 years — the vineyard was replanted in the 1930s, but there have been replacements as vines died (répliquage). (92-95)