More interesting wines from the region, mostly from the 2016 vintage.
Jean-Michel DUPRÉ
2015 Morgon 1935 vieilles vignes
From vines dating to 1935, this wine is fresh with plenty of blue fruits, good grip, and nice energy. None of the overripe aspects that can mar some 2015s is present here. The producer’s website suggests drinking the wine within five years of the vintage, although I expect that it can last longer. Lot LT1540. 13% stated alcohol. 88/B
2016 Beaujolais Terre Noire vieilles vignes
I previously reviewed favorably Dupré’s 2016 Beaujolais-Villages “1940”, but this wine lacks precision to its cassis and other blue fruits. It is from vines planted in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation but declassified to Beaujolais. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot LT1610. 85/C
2016 Beaujolais-Villages Vignes 1940
This wine doesn’t have a lot of depth or breadth, but the cassis and red fruits are fresh and pleasing and there’s a fair amount of liveliness here. From vines planted in 1940 near Régnié. Lot LT1620. 12.5% stated alcohol. 87/B+
2016 Régnié Haute Ronze vieilles vignes
Red cherries and strawberries dominate here in a medium-weight body with very good freshness. This is an enjoyable wine for drinking over the next 3-5+ years. Lot LT1630. 13.0% stated alcohol. 88/B
Jean FOILLARD
2015 Morgon Eponym’
This wine is from the Les Charmes lieu-dit, the highest in Morgon, and apparently from bought-in grapes. The altitude is an advantage in 2015, a vintage that can tend to overripeness, and in spite of the altitude, this wine still is quite ripe. Plenty of black cherry fruit in this medium-weight wine with a voluptuous body. Acidity is moderate but adequate. I’d tend to drink this wine over the next few years rather than risk it’s coming apart with further aging. Lot L 15CH01. 14% stated alcohol. 90/A-
2016 Morgon Cuvée Corcelette
The Corcelette has dark fruit in a medium-weight body with sensuousness of texture. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 16CORO1. 90/A-
2016 Morgon Côte du Puy
This is another outstanding Côte du Puy from Foillard. The wine is light on the palate with juicy strawberry fruit of good intensity. the wine is more approachable than the Corcelette above and more extroverted. It’s just a pleasure to drink right now. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L16CP01. 92/A
Château de PONCIÉ
2016 Fleurie Le Pré Roi
This property is owned by Bouchard Père & Fils. The wine is smooth with dark fruits and minerality. It is medium-weight, concentrated and dense. Half whole clusters, no new oak. 91/A
Domaine ROBERT-DENOGENT
2015 Beaujolais-Villages cuvée Jules Chauvet
This wine is made from a plot leased from the niece of Jules Chauvet, who was the inspiration for the “natural" wine movement. Following Chauvet’s principles, the vines are raised organically and no sulfur is used in the winemaking (with a small amount added at bottling). The wine is round with clear, lightly-spiced red cherry fruit. It’s good for drinking without thinking too much about it. I would recommend decanting before serving the wine. Lot LJC. 12% stated alcohol. 87/B+
LA SOEUR CADETTE/Valentin MONTANET
When the disastrous frost in April 2016 wiped out 80% of La Soeur Cadette’s crop in Northern Burgundy, Valentin Montanet went looking to Southern Burgundy for new sources of grapes to vinify.
2016 Chénas
The Chénas is light in the mouth and on the palate with red cherry fruits and good freshness. It’s not a knockout wine, but one that is pleasant for current drinking. 12.5% stated alcohol. 88/B
2016 Juliénas
This is a lighter, edgier version of Juliénas than most I am familiar with. The wine shows typical hard red cherry fruit but in a lighter body with less sensuality than many initially, although the sensuality comes through on the second day, a good sign for aging. 12.5% stated alcohol. 87+/B
Jean-Paul THÉVENET
2016 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
This wine is light on the palate with a velvet texture and slightly spicy dark plum fruit, as well as good overall freshness. It’s delicious to drink already. 13% stated alcohol. 91/A
Domaine THÉVENET et Fils
2016 Mâcon Rouge
This wine from Gamay is medium-light and energetic with spicy red fruits. Easy to drink and provides a lot of pleasures. This is the Thévnet in Pierreclos in the Mâconnais, not to be confused with Jean-Paul Thévenet, above, in the Beaujolais. Lot LMR16D. 12.5% stated alcohol. 87/A-
Domaine THILLARDON
2016 Chénas Les Carrières
This is an unsulphured wine that comes from flint soils in an old quarry. Possibly it is the flint soil that gives the wine its lighter, slightly more acidic aspect than one normally expects from Beaujolais (even from other "natural" wine producers. With respect to the lightness, it is in the color, which is a light red (I’ve had wines this color labelled rosé), and in weight. At any rate, this wine, with a little breathing, shows simple, enjoyable strawberry fruit. Certified organic. Lot: car 16. 12% stated alcohol. 87/B
Château du THIVIN/Claude GEOFFRAY
2016 Brouilly Reverdon
Quite a magnificent wine, this wine is medium-weight with good depth to well-focused strawberry and red currant fruit, a little white pepper, and lots of energy. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L0516. 92/A
2016 Côte de Brouilly
As usual, the Côte de Brouilly is more structured and slower to open than the Brouilly. The flavors of dark fruits and violet need more time to develop, but this is impressive wine if you’re willing to hold it a few years. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L182. 91(+)/A
Cécile et Laurent TRIPOZ
2016 Bourgogne Chant de la Tour Pinot Noir
This producer is better known for his whites, but this excellent red is worth exploring, should you come across it. The wine is light and silky with red berry fruits, freshness, and good acidity. Certified organic and biodynamic. Lot L 1708 10. 13.5% stated alcohol. 87/A-