Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2018 Part III: Côte de Nuits Reds from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overall vintage review here.)

Like the Côte de Beaune reds, this selection from the Côte de Nuits is most successful.

All wines from Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, or Domaine des Héritiers Jadot, as indicated, are estate wines; other wines are negociant wines. (Continue reading here.)

Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2018 Part II: Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overall vintage review here.)

This selection of Côte de Beaune reds is most successful, even more so considering the trickiness of the vintage for a large producer such as Jadot because of the ultra-rapid but uneven ripening.

Wines not indicated as from Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, or Domaine des Héritiers Jadot, are negociant wines. (Continue reading here.)

Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2018 Part I: White Wines Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overall vintage review here.)

Jadot not infrequently blocks malo-lactic fermentations for white wines, and in 2018 blocked them for for 70% of the whites. Alcohols are in the range of 13-13.5º. 

Wines not indicated as from Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Domaine des Héritiers Jadot, Domaine Duc de Magenta, or Domaine Prieur-Brunet are negociant wines. (Continue reading here.)

Reichsgraf von KESSELSTATT (Mosel) -- 2018 and 2017

Harvesting took from 19 September to 23 October and gave a generous overall yield of 63 hl/ha. The soft acidity is a problem everywhere in Germany in 2018, and Kesselstatt was no exception, although some wines dealt with it better than others. (Continue reading here.)

Pierre GUILLEMOT (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank and Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here.)

Vincent Guillemot characterized the yields here as normal. Harvesting began on 1 September. Alcohols were about 13º. Malo-lactic fermentations were rapid, finishing in about a month. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine des LAMBRAYS (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018s Tasted from Barrel and Tank and 2017 Tasted from Bottle

(Please see my overall account of the 2018 vintage here.)

2018 was an unusual transition year for Lambrays. 

Thierry Brouin retired as technical directer and his appointed successor, Boris Champy, completed his first solo vintage of the wines in 2018. Soon thereafter, Boris left under circumstances that I still do not understand. 

On March 1, 2019, Jacques Devagues, previously technical director Clos de Tart and prior to that at Domaine de l’Arlot, became Champy’s replacement. 

It was with Jacques that I tasted the wines below; 2019 is the first vintage that is his full responsibility. In 2019, the estate became organic, and in 2020 it will begin the process of conversion to biodynamic production. There is also an increasing emphasis on vinification by individual parcels.

Back to 2018, harvesting began on 25 August with the reds and finished on 3 September. The whites were harvested on 27 August. Yields were a little below 40 hl/ha. There are no whole clusters in the village Morey, 50% in the Morey 1er Cru, and 80% in the Clos des Lambrays. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were rapid. Alcohols are modest for the vintage: 13.6% for the Clos des Lambrays, 13.4% for the Morey 1er Cru, 13.6% for the village Morey, and 13.4% for the whites. (Continue reading here.)

Chantal RÉMY and Héritières Louis RÉMY (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please read my vintage overview here.)

Florian Rémy said that he began harvesting on 6 September.

We begin with three negociant wines under the Héritières Louis Rémy label. (Continue reading here.)

Domdecant WERNER (Rheingau) -- 2018 and 2017

The area along the Main River just before it flows in the Rhein is less dramatic visually and overall doesn’t receive as much attention as some of the other Rheingau estates, but there is a long history of quality, and currently there are some top producers working here, one of which has long been Domdechant Werner. (Continue reading here.)

Jean-Jacques CONFURON (Premeaux) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

My notes from tasting these wines from barrel the previous year are here.

These wines across the board are a fine demonstration of the excellent quality that the 2017 vintage can deliver. (Continue reading here.)

Jean-Jacques CONFURON (Premeaux) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please read my overview of the 2018 vintage here.)

Harvesting began on 3 September. Except from Premeaux (Bourgogne and Côtes de Nuits-Villages), where there was hail, the quantities were very large, resulting in 42-43 hl/ha overall. 

Malolactic fermentations were irregular in the sense that some were early, and others later. By March, all had finished except for the Nuits, Fleurières vineyard.

Many of the wines were made with whole clusters, as indicated below.

With respect to new oak, the Bourgogne, Côte de Nuits-Villages, and village wines have about 20% new oak, the premiers crus about 33% new oak, and the grands crus about 50%. This is in keeping with the long-term trend here in the direction of wines of more elegance and less new oak than was the case in the 1990s. Alain and Sophie Meunier’s son Louis has now taken over the fermentations and  has made changes continuing in that sense — less cold maceration, less punching down, but longer macerations, and less new oak.

The highest alcohols here are 13.8º (Nuits-Boudots and Côte de Nuits-Villages). (Continue reading here.)

Sélection LABRUYÈRE-PRIEUR (Meursault) -- Red and White Wines Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overall vintage summary here.)

This label is being used now for wines from vineyards that Domaine Jacques Prieur exploits but does not own.

Starting with the reds: (Continue reading here.)

Jacques PRIEUR (Meursault) -- 2018 Part II: Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see here for an overview of conditions in 2018 and here  for an overview of the harvest at Prieur.)

The grand cru whites had yields of about 40 hl/ha, the premiers crus about 45 to 50 hl/ha. There was some stirring of the lies (bâtonnage), the first time in some years at this estate; additionally, the whites could not be racked for a while, which led to their further being nourished.

Especially for the top wines, these are outstanding successes. (Continue reading here.)

Jacques PRIEUR (Meursault) -- 2018 Part I: Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overview of the vintage here.)

Harvesting began on 29 August, the same date as in 2017.

Yields are about 35hl/ha for the red grands crus, 35-42 hl/ha for the 1er crus. There was very little sorting out of grapes. Skins were thick, there were good quantities of juice. Alcohols are in the range of 13.5º-14.5º. There was no acidification. 25-30% new wood for village premier cru reds, no more than 60% for grands crus.

Malo-lactic fermentations finished in spring, April-June/July, which is normal timing here.

All wines were still in barrel and had not been racked when I tasted.

This is a very successful set of wines, especially the Côte de Nuits grands crus. (Continue reading here.)

Anne GROS (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here.)

2018 was the larges harvest in Anne Gros’ career. Harvesting began on 4 September. No sorting of the grapes was necessary. As usual, all grapes were destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were quick for this estate, beginning at the end of November and finishing by Christmas. There was no chaptalization and alcohols are 12.5º for the white Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits, 13º for the Bourgogne blanc, 12.8º for the red Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits, 13.8º for the red Bourgogne. The only other note I have for alcohol levels in the other wines is 13º for the Chambolle-Musigny. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Armand ROUSSEAU Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the vintage here.)

Is there ever a vintage where Rousseau doesn’t get it right? Not that I can recall, and I’ve been visiting at this estate annually for nearly three decades. Ho-hum, another year of great wines for those lucky enough to obtain bottles. 

Harvesting began on 1 September. Malo-lactic fermentations finished in February, and alcohols are in the normal range. (Continue reading here.)

FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Part II: Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see here for my overall description of the vintage and here for my background on the vintage at Faiveley.)

Interestingly, technical director Jérôme Flous said that the grand cru whites used to be harvested last, but now they are harvested first — presumably a result of changing climate.

Wines marked “Joseph Faiveley” are negociant wines sold under that label, the other wines are estate wines sold under the Domaine Faiveley label. (Continue reading here.)

FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Part I: Red Wines from Bottle and Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overview of the vintage here.)

Technical director Jérôme Flous said that harvesting began on 28 August on the Côte Chalonnaise and the Côte de Beaune. The Côte d’Or finished about 16 September. 

The Amoureuses and Echézeaux are made with some whole clusters, as were a few other wines that I did not taste and that are in the area of Chambolle-Musigny. 

Some young vine cuvées were acidified. There was no chaptalization. Alcoholic fermentations were slow, and there were still some cuvées that hadn’t finished when I visited in October 2019. Malo-lactic fermentations were uneven; some finished by December, some finished in summer. Alcohols range from about 13º to about 14.5º. On the Côte Chalonnaise, yields were 39 hl/ha. They were higher in Côte d’Or, and the whites were much higher — around 50 hl/ha.

There was a big risk for brettanomyces, so the premiers and grands crus were racked in spring — first time in Jérôme’s 12 years that he has done this.

Given the inherent trickiness of the vintage and the very quick ripening of the grapes at harvest, it’s not surprising that there is some unevenness in the wines from a producer that covers as great an area as Faiveley.

All wines below are estate wines under the label Domaine Faiveley, except for those indicated Joseph Faiveley, which are negociant wines. (Continue reading here.)

Maison de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2018 Whites from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here and my introduction to the vintage at de Montille here.)

The lack of biodynamic viticulture and other control over the vineyard in the extreme 2018 vintage show in these wines compared to the Domaine whites. These are not bad, but clearly a step below the Domaine wines in 2018.

All the wines below are from purchases of musts. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2018 Part II: Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here and my introduction to the vintage at de Montille here.)

Old-timer that I am, I can recall the excitement when tasting at the estate in 1994. A white wine had been added, and not just any white wine, a Pulginy-Montrachet Le Cailleret. (Moreover, although I did not know it at the time, the wine was made by Hubert de Montille’s son-in-law, Jean-Marc Roulot.) Over the years, the estate has grown in red, but even more in white. These wines show the enjoyability that the 2018 vintage can provide in white, although as I have mentioned previously, I think they are wines to drink and enjoy young. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2018 Part I: Reds Tasted from Tank, Barrel Sample, and Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here.)

Harvesting started on 28 August, and finished on 9 September, with one or two rain days in between. Alcohols are 12.7º-13º; the highest picked was 13,5º, and normally about 0.4º is lost while the wines are in cask. 

There was a bit less extraction than usual but use of whole cluster remained the same as normal. 

Except for the Volnay-Mitans, malo-lactic fermentations were all late; low temperature was used to block them. They took place from spring to late summer for the reds; for the whites, earlier malos are desired. 

Total acidities are higher than 2017, but pHs are lower; thus there is good acidity in the wines, but not as much bite. Compared to 2009, there is more acidity and less alcohol in these 2018s.

Yields for the reds are about 40 hl/ha overall, but it is uneven. Whites have  higher yields, but de Montille doesn’t have a lot of property in Meursault, and Meursault is where yields were very high. Overall yields for whites was about 45-50 hl/ha. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine des Comtes LAFON (Meursault) -- 2018 Part II: Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank

(Please read my introduction to the vintage here and my introduction to 2018 at Lafon here.)

Although yields were very high in 2018 (60 hl/ha for the straight Meursault. 40-50 hl/ha for the premiers crus), Dominique Lafon pointed out, correctly, I think, that had they not been, the wines would have been too high in alcohol. Malo-lactic fermentations were very quick here, even some starting before alcoholic fermentation, but fortunately there was no problem with volatile acidity.

With all this and the first few wines that were good, but not better, I was not expecting the outstanding quality of the premier cru wines and the greatness of the Montrachet. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine des Comtes LAFON (Meursault) -- 2018 Part I: Red Wines Tasted from Barrel

(Please read my introduction to the vintage here.)

As I mention in the introduction to the vintage, Dominique Lafon justified harvesting earlier than the traditional 100 days from flowering on the basis that the flowering now takes place earlier than when the rule was established, and as a result the grapes have more exposure to the long days of summer. The results back his reasoning.

Harvesting for the whites began on 28 August and finished at the beginning of September; for the reds, harvesting began at the end of August. Yields for red are less than in 2017 (when the vines reacted vigorously after the frosts of 2016). For reds, they are 35-40 hl/ha, a bit more for Monthélie; for the whites, yields go up to 60 hl/ha for the village wine.

Malo-lactic fermentations were finished long before I tasted in late October, and the wines are going to receive a longer élévage than the 2017s. 

For the reds, all grapes were destemmed. Alcohols are in the range of 13.0 - 13.4º.

Starting, as always here, with the reds: (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de l'ARLOT (Premeaux-Prissey) -- 2018 Tasted from Bottle and Barrel Sample

(Please read the vintage summary here.)

Géraldine Godot, technical director, showed these wines on the last day prior to her taking maternity leave. She said that the vineyards in Premeaux had three big storms that not all villages got, which alleviated the drought in 2018; but the hail also damaged the vines to some extent.

Malo-lactic fermentations finished by end of October. Some wines are acidified - Gerbottes and Clos de l'Arlot in white, Côtes de Nuits-Villages, Clos de l’Arlot, and Suchots in red.

Hails in July (3 times) kept yields down, having the effect of a green harvest. Overall average yields were 29 hl/ha in 2018 for the domaine; there was no hail damage at Vosne-Romanée.

Suchots and Romanée-Saint-Vivant have 35% whole clusters, all the rest of the red wines have essentially none.

Harvesting began on 1 September at Vosne with Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Suchots. The harvesting finished on 7 September.

The Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits and the Côtes de Nuits-Villages in both colors have been in bottle since late August. The rest are samples closed with Coravin. I, and other colleagues, have found the Coravin closures not to preserve the wine samples very well, and hopefully we will not see them in the future. (Continue reading here)

Domaine de la VOUGERAIE (Premeaux-Prissey) -- 2018 Tasted from Bottle and

(Please read my vintage summary here.)

After having heard Jean-Marie Fourrier’s case for waiting for the traditional 100 days to pick in order to get phenolic maturity, I encountered my first challenge to that theory at Vougeraie. Harvesting began on 23 August with reds, specifically young Volnay vines. The harvest on the Côte de Beaune finished on 15 September, and on the Côte de Nuits on 18 September, with the last of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits grapes coming in. 

Neither here, nor anywhere else where picking began early, did I encounter problems that I could ascribe to lack of phenolic maturity. Indeed, as you can see below, the vintage is quite a success here.

Some wines have whole clusters, with the grands crus having 100% whole clusters. 

Macerations were about 21 days, which is normal for Vougeraie. Malolactic fermentations were quick. There was no acidification. The highest alcohol is 13,4º. New oak in village and premier cru wines is a maximum of 20%, 30% for the grand cru wines. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine FOURRIER (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please read my vintage summary here.)

My first visit to taste 2018s was at Jean-Marie Fourrier’s Gevrey-Chambertin estate. Not all wines were available to taste as some were being transferred from barrel to holding tank.

Harvesting began on 6 September and there was a 4-1/2 or 5 day picking window, said Jean-Marie. He went with the 100-days-from-flowering rule because when he tasted grapes in the vineyards prior to then, they were sweet, but did not have flavor (i.e., they had physiological maturity but not phenolic maturity). Harvesting took place from 6.30 in the morning to 1.30 in the afternoon; later in the afternoons, the grapes were too warm to bring in, and Jean-Marie did not want to use dry ice to cool them because he believes that it is too brutal to the gapes exposed directly and also that it provides uneven cooling. 

There was no acidification here, and as usual in the past, no whole cluster fermentation (but in 2019 there will be about 20% whole clusters). Malolactic fermentations took place in the spring.

Alcohols range up to 13.8% (Clos Sorbés) (Continue reading here.)

2018 Burgundy Vintage Overview

It was the best of years. It was the worst of years. 2018 in the Côte d’Or was a very hot, dry, sunny year, and for most producers, it yielded large crops. Additionally, it yielded wines that qualitatively and stylistically are all over the map. Some are classic in style; some have overripe, jammy fruit. Some have normal alcohols in the 13% range, some are in excess of 15% (and I have even heard from one of my colleagues who tastes more widely than I that he has tasted wines at 16.5%!). And yet, some of the wines above 14% (even at 14.5%) do manage to be surprisingly good. 

This diversity has caused me to delay writing about the vintage until I felt that I had tasted enough to understand this very complex vintage and give you an introduction that explains what to expect and why. I have now finished three weeks out of four of tasting the wines and finally feel competent to give that summary. (Continue reading here.)

2018 (and a late-released 2017) Weisser Burgunder GG's of Note from Saale-Unstrut, Baden, Franken, and Pfalz -- Bassermann-Jordan, Bercher, Juliusspital, Knipser, Messmer, Pawls, Pfeffingen, Staatliche Hofkeller Würzburg

Weisser Burgunder (literally, white Burgundy, also seen as Weisserburgunder, Weiss Burgunder, and Weissburgunder, and often with the “ss" written as “ß”) is what German Pinot Blanc is called. It can make a fascinating, racy wine in Germany, especially the Pfalz, that are unlike any Pinot Blanc that I know from any other wine region.

2018 was a difficult year for Weisser Burgunder, with too many examples being loose and flabby due to low acidity. I’ll spare you the notes on those wines and just present the minority that I tasted that are indeed worthy of interest. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Ahr Spätburgunder GG (Gärkammer, Herrenberg, Kräuterberg, Pfarrwingert, Rosenthal, Silberberg, Sonnenberg) -- Adenauer, Meyer-Näkel Stodden

This set is a mixed bag, but at least these producers are finally moving to a more balanced, elegant style. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Württemberg Spätburgunder GG (Burghalde, Forstberg, Gips Marienglas, Himmelreich, Herzogenberg, Lämmler, Linnenbrunnen, Schupen) -- Aldinger, Dautel, Ellwanger, Haidle, Held, Schnaitmann, Weinberg, Wöhrwag

This is a fairly good selection, with Dautel being the standout producer. (Continue reading here.)

Late released 2016 and 2016 Baden Spätburgunder GG (Eichberg, Henkenberg, Kirchberg, Löchle, Winklerberg "Pagode") -- Burg Ravensburg, Salwey, Stigler

These are good wines, but a comparison with the 2017s shows the superior quality of the latter vintage. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Baden Spätburgunder GG Part II (Eichberg, Enselberg, Henkenberg, Kirchberg, [Achkarren] Schlossberg) -- Heger, Keller, Salwey

An outstanding selection across the board. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Baden Spätburgunder GG Part I: (Bienenberg, Bienenberg Wildenstein, Doktorgarten, Feuerberg Kesselberg, Herrenberg Oberklamm, Herrenberg Sperman, Kirchgasse, [Hecklingen] Schlossberg, Sommerhalde) -- Bercher, Freiburg, Huber, Seeger, Wöhrle

Strong wines from Baden in this vintage. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Franken Spätburgunder GG (Bischofsberg, Centgrafenberg, Hundsrück, Maustal, Schlossberg) -- Baltes, Fürst, Zehnthof Luckert

There are wonderful wines here in 2017. Especially notable are the dazzling wines from Fürst, a splendid recovery from what I found to be a disappointing 2016 vintage. (Continue reading here.)

Late-Released Pfalz Spätburgunder GG from 2014, 2015, and 2016 (Heydenreich, Im Grossen Garten, Kalmit, Kammerberg, Kastanienbusch "Köppel", Kirschgarten, [Dirmstein] Mandelpfad, Münzberg, Rosenkranz -- Im untern Kreuz, Sankt Paul, Sonnenberg, Steinbuckel) -- Becker, Knipser, Kranz, Kuhn, Minges, Münzberg/Kessler, Rebholz, Siegrist, Wehrheim

All very talented Pinot Noir producers and terroirs here, and all have produced at least very good wines.(Continue reading here.)

2017 Pfalz Spätburgunder GG (Kalkberg, Sonnenberg, Idig, Saumagen) -- Bergdolt-St. Lamprecht, Bernhart, Christmann, Rings

These young Pinot Noirs show very good promise for the 2017 vintage there. More producers are holding the wines longer, so I expect to see more 2017s next year. (Continue reading here.)

2017 and 2016 Rheinhessen Spätburgunder GG (Brunnenhäuschen, Bürgel, Horn, Kirchenstück, Kreuz, Morstein, Pares, Paterberg, Schloss Westerhaus) -- Battenfeld-Spanier, Gutzler, Keller, Kühling-Gillot, Neus, St. Antony, Westerhaus

Mixed quality, but there are some good wines and the direction is going the right way — toward finesse and purity. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Riesling GG from Saale Unstrut (Edelacker) and Baden (Herrenberg Oberklamm, Plauelrain, Winklerberg Winkeln) -- Pawls, Laible, Seeger, Stigler

Not much GG Riesling available from these two regions. (Continue reading here.)

Late-Released 2017 Franken Riesling GG (Apostelgarten, Julius-Echter-Berg, KAMMEN Kronsberg, Lumpen 1655, Pfülben, Rothlauf, [Würzburg] Stein, Steinbach Alttenberg 1072) -- Arnold, Bickel-Stumpf, Höfler, Juliusspital, Schäffer, Sommerhausen, Wirsching

These wines are very good, but as a group do not stand above the 2018s that I just reviewed. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Franken Riesling GG (Centgrafenberg, Julius-Echterberg, Küchenmeister, Lumpen 1655, Maustal, Pfülben, [Stetten] Stein, Stein-Hagemann, Stein-Harfe): Bürgerspital, Fröhlich, Fürst, Ruck, H. Sauer, R. Sauer, Schmitt's Kinder, Schwane, Staatlich Hofkeller, Stein/Knoll, Weltner, Zehnthof-Luckert

Given the southerly location of Franken (Franconia), the hot vintage, and the mixed showing of the 2018 Silvaner GG’s from here, one would expect disappointing Riesling GG’s, too. But in fact, that was not the case. These producers by and large came through the vintage very successfully. (Continue reading here.)

Late-released 2017 Pfalz Riesling GG (Freundstück, Jesuitengarten, Kirchenstück, Pechstein, Reiterpfad, Ungeheuer) - von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf

Riechsrat von BUHL

Winemaker Matthieu Kauffmann, who had come to von Buhl from the Bollinger Champagne house in 2013, abruptly left von Buhl this past August. In his time at von Buhl, he had introduced a new style of very nervy, reductive, high-acid wines that proved popular with the German-speaking press (he was named Falstaff magazine’s winemaker of the year this past April) . We’ll see down the road if his successor follows this same style.

Although these wines are different from what others have been doing from these vineyards, as my notes below show, I was a fan. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Pfalz Riesling GG Part V (Ganzhorn, Hölle, Kalmit, Kastanienbusch, Kirchberg, Schäwer, Sonnenberg, im Sonnenschein) -- Kranz, Messmer, Minges, Rebholz, Siegrist, Wehrheim

Pfalz strength continues in the southern portion, although perhaps a step behind the middle Pfalz. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Pfalz Riesling GG Part IV (Bürgergarten, Grainhübel, Hohenmorgen, Kieselbach, Königsbach, Langenmorgen, [Gimmeldingnen] Mandelgarten,Reiterpfad) -- Bassermann-Jordan, Bergdolt-St. Lamprecht, Christmann, Mosbacher, Müller-Catoir

If Forst is the Vosne-Romanée of Pfalz Riesling, Deidesheim is the Chambolle-Musigny. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Pfalz Riesling GG Part III (Freundstück, Jesuitengarten, Kirchenstück, Pechstein, Ungeheuer) -- Acham-Magin, Bassermann-Jordan, Mosbacher

As I mentioned in my introduction to the vintage, along with the Rheingau, the middle part of the Pfalz stood out particularly in 2018. 

The Pfalz in general compares in many ways to Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, and Forst is the counterpart to Vosne-Romanée in that model. And it doesn’t hurt to have great producers to go with the great terroirs. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Pfalz Riesling GG Part II (Herrenberg, Michelsberg, Weilberg): Fitz-Ritter, Pfeffingen - Fuhrmann-Eymael, Rings, Schaefer

There are some very fine producers in this sector, but the unevenness of the wines reflects the challenges of the vintage. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Pfalz Riesling GG Part I (Im Grossen Garten, Kirschgarten, [Dirmstein] Mandelpfad, Saumagen, Schwarzer Herrgott, Steinbuckel) -- Knipser, Kuhn, Rings

These wines should essentially be grouped geographically and geologically with Part III of the 2018 Rheinhessen Riesling GG’s that I reviewed. The difference is only one of political boundary. (Continue reading here.)

Late-Released 2017 Rheinhessen Riesling GG (Kirchberg, Scharlachberg) -- Salm

Salm’s wines always needed some time to come around, so the decision to release them later helps. Also, with a change in generation, the wines have gotten still better. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part III (Aulerde, Brunnenhäuschen, Frauenberg, Geiersberg, Kirchenstück, Kirchspiel, Kloppberg, Leckerberg, Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück, Morstein, Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott) -- Battenfeld-Spanier, Groebe, Gutzler, Keller, Winter, Wittmann

Always a favorite part of the GG tasting — some of Germany’s greatest producers combined with some of the greatest dry Riesling terroirs. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part II: (Falkenberg, Hipping, Ölberg, Orbel, Pettenthal, Rothenberg, Tafelstein, Zehnmorgen): Becker, Gunderloch, Kühling-Gillot, Schätzel, St. Antony

A few wines underperformed, but mostly high quality in this sector of the Rheinhessen. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part I (Heerkretz, Höllberg, Hundertgulden, Scharlachberg, Schloss Westerhaus) -- Bischel, Kruger-Rumpf, Westerhaus, Wagner-Stempel

Very good quality for this sector, much of which is essentially Nahe. (Continue reading here.)

Late-Released 2017 Nahe Riesling GG's (Bastei, Burgberg, [Wallhausen] Felseneck, Hermannsberg, Johannisberg): Diel, Hermannsberg, Salm

One can easily perceive the superiority of this vintage overall to 2018. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Nahe Riesling GG Part III ([Bockenau] Felseneck, Frühlingspläztchen, Halenberg, Stromberg) -- Emrich-Schönleber and Schäfer-Fröhlich

This part of the Nahe seemed the most consistent — or was it just these two superb producers? (Continue reading here.)

2018 Nahe GG Riesling Part II (Bastei, Brücke, Dellchen, Felsenberg, Hermannshöhle, Kupfergrube, Mühlberg "Im Rotenfels", Rotenberg, [Niederhausen] Steinberg, [Traisen] Steinberg) -- Crusius, Dönnhoff, Hermannsberg, Schäfer-Fröhlich

More irregularity in this part of the Nahe, but still some very good wines, even if a bit below the past few vintages. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Nahe Riesling GG Part I (Burgberg, Dautenpflänzer, Goldloch, Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg, Krötenpfuhl, Im Pitterberg, Pittermännchen): Diel, Dönnhoff, Kruger-Rumpf, Schäfer

Some good jobs here in a challenging vintage. (Continue reading here.)

TESCH (Nahe) -- 2018 Dry Rieslings

Nahe producer Martin Tesch took his estate out of the VDP a few years back, but he does make single-vineyard dry Rieslings that are on a level with the Grosses Gewächs wines from VDP producers. I had a chance to sample five of the six individual vineyards and also the Unplugged Riesling, the basic dry Riesling that put the estate on its current path. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Mittelrhein Riesling GG (Im Hahn, Im Lauerbaum, An der Rabenlei, St. Jost, Wolfhöhle) -- Jost/Hahenhof, Lanius-Knab, Müller, Ratzenberger

Not well-known outside Germany, but there are some quality producers here. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Rheingau Riesling GG (Berg Kaisersteinfels, Berg Roseneck, Berg Rottland, Berg Schlossberg, Doosberg, Greiffenberg, Hasensprung, Hassel, Jungfer, Rosengarten) : Allendorf, Barth, Kühn, Leitz, Vollrads

These 2017s were held back a year and shown this year at the Wiesbaden Grosses Gewächs preview. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Rheingau Riesling GG Part IV (Berg Roseneck, Berg Rottland, Berg Schlossberg, [Johannisberg] Hölle, Klaus, Rothenberg, Schloss Johannisberger, Seligmacher) -- Allendorf, Hessen, Künstler, Ress, Schloss Johannisberg, Wegeler

The end of the excellent 2018 Rheingau Riesling GG presentation. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Rheingau Riesling GG Part III (Hassel, Jesuitengarten, Jungfer, Rosengarten, St. Nikolaus, Schönhell, Schlossberg, Wisselbrunnen) -- Kaufmann, Müller, Prinz, Spreitzer, Vollrads, Wegeler

A very strong and consistent showing from this part of the Rheingau. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Rheingau Riesling GG Part II (Baikenkopf, Gräfenberg, Hohenrain, Marcobrunn, Siegelsberg) -- Jung, Kl. Eberbach, Oetinger, Weil

Continued consistency and quality as one moves through the Rheinguau. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Rheingau Riesling GG's Part I (Hölle, Kirchenstück, Königen Victoriaberg, Langenberg, Nonnberg "Vier Morgen", Schlenzberg, Weiss Erd) -- Diefenhardt, Flick, Künstler, Werner

As I indicated in my introduction, the Rheingau is one of the most successful regions of the vintage, and there are some genuinely exciting wines here. (Continue reading here.)

2017 and Earlier Mosel-Saar-Ruwer GG -- Goldtröpfchen, Josephshöfer, Kreuzwingert, Lay, Marienburg Falkenlay and Falkenlay Terrassen, Nies'chen, Scharzhofberger, Uhlen "Roth Lay", Würzgarten -- Busch, Haart, Heymann-Löwnstein, Kesselstatt, Loosen, S.A. Prüm

As I mentioned in my introduction to the 2018 GGs, an increasing number of producers are holding wines back to present a year (or in Loosen’s case below, several years) after the vintage to give the wine more time in bottle. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Saar Riesling GG Part II (Bockstein, Rausch, Schloss Saarstein) -- Geltz/Zilliken, Othegraven, Saarstein, Volxem, Weis/St. Urbanshof

More unevenness further up the valley. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Saar GG Part I (Altenberg, Fels, Goldberg, Gottesfuss, Kupp, Saarfeilser Marienberg, Schonfels, Scharzhofberger, Scharzhofberger Perkentsknop, Volz) -- Geltz/Zilliken, Lauer, von Othegraven, van Volxem, Weis/St. Urbanshof

In very hot years, the cold climate Saar usually excels, but in 2018, the wines, while good, are not exceptional. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer GG (Abtsberg, Bruderberg, Herrenberg, Karthäuserhofberg) -- Karthäuserhof and von Schubert/Maximin Grünhaus

The Ruwer’s GG's in 2018. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Mosel GG (Apotheke, Goldtröpfchen, Hofberg, Laurentiuslay, Ohligsberg) -- Grans-Fassian, Haart, Lieser, Weis/St. Urbanshof

Some strong wines here, but also some disappointments. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Mosel Riesling GG (Doctor, Johannisbrünnchen, Lay, Layet, Niederberg Helden) -- Fritz Haag, Schloss Lieser, Loosen, S.A. Prüm, Wegeler

Mixed results, perhaps reflecting different approaches to the vintage. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Mosel Riesling GG (Domprobst, Försterlay, Himmelreich, Rosenberg, [Wehlen] Sonnenuhr, Treppchen, Würzgarten) -- Lieser, Loosen, S.A. Prüm, Wegeler

As one moves to the Mittel Mosel, things begin to look somewhat more consistent. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Mosel Riesling GG (Marienburg, Kirchberg, Stolzenberg, Röttgen, Uhlen): Busch, Heymann-Löwenstein, Knebel

The challenges of the vintage are seen in the mixed quality that these wines showed. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Franken Silvaner GG (Am Lumpen 1655, Hohenroth, Julius-Echterberg, Kronsberg, Mönchshof, Ratsherr, Rothlauf, Schlossberg, Stein [Würzburg], Steinbach Attenberg 1072 -- Arnold, Bickel-Stumpf, Castell, Juliusspital, Schäffer, Wirsching, Zur Schwane

The superiority of the 2017 vintage to the 2018 for Silvaner (as well as the advantage of giving the wines an extra year in bottle) is easily seen by comparing these notes with those for the 2018s.

Notes on the 2017s and 2016s presented at last year’s tasting are here, here, and here.

(Continue reading here.)

2018 Franken Silvaner GG Part II (Am Lumpen 1655, Kallmuth, Maustal) -- Fröhlich, Löwenstein, H. Sauer, R. Sauer, Zehntof Luckert, Zur Schwane

From top producers, honorable wines that nevertheless reflect the challenges of the vintage in their lack of true excitement. (Continue reading here.)

2018 Franken Silvaner GG Part I (Stein-Harfe, Himmeslpfad, Rothlauf, Julius-Echter-Berg, [Stetten] Stein, [Würzburg] Stein, Pfülben, Küchenmeister): Bürgerpsital, May, Ruck, Schmitt's Kinder, Stein/Knoll, Schwab, Staatlich Hofkeller, Weltner

An especially challenging year for Silvaner because of the high heat reducing the acidity, but top producers manage to come through. (Continue reading here.)

Introduction to the New Crop of Grosses Gewächs Wines

Having now finished my notes on tasting VDP auction wines, I turn to my tasting of VDP Grosses Gewächs (“GG”) wines, which were tasted under conditions that allowed for more careful evaluation. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Crusius, Diel, Dönnhoff, Emrich-Schönleber, Kruger-Rumpf, Schäfer

Based on very quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Battenfeld-Spanier, Christmann, Kuhn, Wagner-Stempel, Wittmann

Based on quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Groebe, Keller, Schätzel

Based on quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Karthäuserhof, Loosen, Willi Schaefer, Thanisch

Based on quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Schloss Lieser

Notes from quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Joh. Jos. Prüm

Based on quick takes.

In which Joh. Jos. Prüm yet again proves its greatness: (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Peter Lauer

Based on very quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines: von Oethegraven and Egon Müller

Based on very quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Fritz Haag

Notes from very quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Heymann-Löwenstein, Knebel, Busch

Based on very quick tastes of these wines. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Forstmeister Geltz/Zilliken

Based on quick tastes. (Continue reading here.)

VDP Auction Wines -- Von Schubert/Maximin Grünhaus

This post begins a number of posts on VDP producers' wines in the current auction; they were tasted quite rapidly. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Michel LAFARGE (Volnay) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel and Tank

(Originally published October 2017)

It was fitting that I began my tastings at Michel Lafarge: my first visit to review Burgundy for The Fine Wine Review started at this estate, and I’ve visited every year since, making this the thirtieth consecutive year I’ve visited. Throughout that time, Lafarge has been consistent in upholding the highest standards, notwithstanding the many years that posed very difficult conditions such as rain, hail, and now frost.

It was Michel Lafarge who received me on that first visit and for many years thereafter. In more recent years, Michel’s son Frédéric has received me, but I often see Michel to say hi, too. Frédéric is about the same age now as Michel was on that first visit, and Michel will be turning 89 in just a few weeks. Time flies!

Lafarge’s vines suffered from the freezes on the nights of 27, 28, and 29 April. Losses amounted to about 70%. Following the freezes, there was lots of mildew, but the estate was equipped to handle it well.

Harvesting began on 21 September with the Volnay 1er Cru, Clos du Château des Ducs. As always, all grapes were destemmed by hand. Generally, the wines finished their malolactic fermentations in March or April, but the Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains was considerably later. Alcohols are in the 12.8-13.0º range and there was very little chaptalization. 

Frédéric characterizes the vintage as joyous, and I agree. The style here, as with many of the 2016s that I’ve tasted, is similar to 2014 but with more gentleness to it. Without knowing the story of 2016, one would not guess that these wines came from a very small harvest. The wines are very good expressions of their respective terroirs.

Overall, in the last five years, Lafarge has made as much wine as it makes in two normal years; to put it another way, the average for each of the past five years is only 40% of a normal year’s harvest. This, alas, is typical of the producers on the Côte de Beaune. (In 2017, there was a harvest of normal quantity, the first since 2009.)

We start with the whites here: (Continue reading here.)