Domdecant WERNER (Rheingau) -- 2018 and 2017


The area along the Main River just before it flows in the Rhein is less dramatic visually and overall doesn’t receive as much attention as some of the other Rheingau estates, but there is a long history of quality, and currently there are some top producers working here, one of which has long been Domdechant Werner.

2018 Guts-Riesling trocken
I evaluate all dry wines on the same grade level, so a score of 91 for an estate dry Riesling such as this one is an extremely high score. This wine is medium-light in weight, completely dry, nervy, and has lovely golden fruits, all bound together to make a wine of finesse and charm. It is a lovely wine to drink on its own for an aperitif. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 03 19. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A-

2018 Riesling Kabinett trocken
This wine is a little rounder with a bit more weight and less nervous than the Guts-Riesling, and it shows golden plum fruit. Which you like more is really a matter of stylistic preference. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 007 19. 12.5% stated alcohol. 90/B+

2018 Hochheimer Dompräsenz Riesling trocken Erste Laga
This Erste Lage is from a portion of the great Domdechaney vineyard that is called Dompräsenz on old maps. The wine shows power with minerality and citric fruits. I find the acidity at this time not as well-integrated as in the Kirchenstück below, but with time that may change. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 01819. 13.0% stated alcohol. 90/B+

2018 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling trocken Erste Lage
This wine, from a portion of the Kirchenstück vineyard that is not quite as fine as that used for the GG below, is nevertheless excellent. The wine is light and bone dry with Kirchenstück elegance, but more austerity than the GG. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 016 19. 13.0% stated alcohol. 92/A

2018 (Hochheim) Kirchenstück Riesling GG
Beautiful, floral nose. Intense lime and white peach flavor; finesse, elegance of Kirchenstück. Fine acidity. Needs time to mature but will be a beauty. 93/A

2018 Riesling Classic
This is a QbA with enough acidity to balance the residual sugar so that the wine tastes just off-dry. It is light and nervy with grapefruit and mirabelle plum aromas and flavors. It can serve as a good aperitif wine, but also will go well with a variety of foods such as charcuterie, fish, poultry, pork, and cheese. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 005 19. 12.5% stated alcohol. 88/A

2018 Hochheimer Riesling Kabinett
To me, this wine is just too sweet without enough acid to balance it to make it up to my full expectations. 10.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 009 19.  86/C

2018 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Spätlese
The Hochheimer Hölle Spätlese is most attractive with its yellow plum aromas and flavors and very good supporting acidity in a medium-weight body. 9.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 010 19. 92/A

2018 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Auslese
With spiciness to go with white fruits in a medium-weight body with some sweetness and enough acidity to keep everything fresh and in balance, this is good Auslese for near-term drinking. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 001 19. 94/A

2017 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling trocken Erste Lage
This wine is very slightly darker in color than the GG version reviewed below. There’s some honey in the nose. The mouth shows acidity and a hint of honey along with white peach fruit. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 016 18. 90/B+

2017 Hochheimer Domdechenay Riesling trocken Erste Lage
This wine has some spice to go with its grapefruit aromas. The mouth is crisp, pure, and sculpted with grapefruit and lemon flavors and very good supporting acidity. The texture of the wine is slightly juicy, and the wine has very good energy. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 018 18. 92/A

2017 (Hochheim) Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Unlike in 2018, I find a significant difference between the Erste Lage and the GG versions of this wine in 2017. All the finesse of the Kirchestück vineyard is here with rounder acidity and perfumed yellow plum fruit. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 017 18. 92/A

2017 (Hochheim) Domdechenay Riesling Grosses Gewächs
An aristocratic wine in its bearing with good structure and acidity plus a little creaminess beneath the citric fruits. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 019 18. 93/A