Although yields were very high in 2018 (60 hl/ha for the straight Meursault. 40-50 hl/ha for the premiers crus), Dominique Lafon pointed out, correctly, I think, that had they not been, the wines would have been too high in alcohol. Malo-lactic fermentations were very quick here, even some starting before alcoholic fermentation, but fortunately there was no problem with volatile acidity.
With all this and the first few wines that were good, but not better, I was not expecting the outstanding quality of the premier cru wines and the greatness of the Montrachet.
2018 Meursault
Half this wine is from the Clos de la Baronne, half from traditional sources for the Lafon Meursault. The wine has a butter popcorn nose. The mouth is rich and smooth with no dilution, but also no great concentration. It’s a pretty wine and easily approachable. (87-89)
2018 Meursault Clos de la Baronne
This wine is rich but with freshness, some buttery aspects, and just the slightest bit stretched in concentration. (86-88)
2018 Meursault Désirée
The Désirée is smooth in texture with no diluteness, although not especially concentrated, either. Buttery flavors here. (88-90)
2018 Meursault Clos de la Barre
As usual, the Clos de la Barre performs at premier cru level. Butter in the nose with excellent precision. The mouth shows greater concentration than any of the preceding wines with roundness, lemony flavors, and butter overtones, plus good acidity. In short, classic. (91-93)
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères
The Bouchères is fresh, pure, and clear with penetrating butter and lime flavors. The wine is round and energetic with good acidity. (92-94)
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or
The nose of the Goutte d’Or features lime blossoms. In the mouth, the wine is round with some power, good acidity, and lime and butter flavors. (92-94)
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots
The Meursault lime and butter come through in the nose. The mouth is lighter than the Goutte d’Or with good energy, finesse, and some tannin to go with peach flavors. (92-94)
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
This wine has the floral/buttery nose typical of Genevrières. The mouth shows good acidity together with Genevrières finesse and plenty of material. But this wine is at a less advanced stage than the others. (94-96)
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
The Charmes shows complexity in the nose around a buttery core. The wine has good acidity and is round, intense, and long. (93-95)
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
The stony Perrières nose is here. The mouth shows a wine that is intense, nervous, rich, and powerful with great complexity. (94-96)
2018 Montrachet
The yields here were 48 hl/ha (I counted seven barrels), which sounds high, although Chardonnay has long been known to be relatively elastic on yields. The result is a great Montrachet. The nose is stony. The mouth is majestic with good concentration, finesse, length, salinity, and persistence. (97-99)