Riechsrat von BUHL
Winemaker Matthieu Kauffmann, who had come to von Buhl from the Bollinger Champagne house in 2013, abruptly left von Buhl this past August. In his time at von Buhl, he had introduced a new style of very nervy, reductive, high-acid wines that proved popular with the German-speaking press (he was named Falstaff magazine’s winemaker of the year this past April) . We’ll see down the road if his successor follows this same style.
Although these wines are different from what others have been doing from these vineyards, as you can see from the notes below, I was a fan.
2017 (Forst) Freundstück Riesling GG
Apply white fruits. Tightly wound, nervy. Needs time. Very acidic. 91(+)/A-
2017 (Forst) Jesuitengarten Riesling GG
Hazelnut nose with ripe yellow peach. Ripe white peach flavors, juicy but restrained. Long, intense, penetrating. 93/A
2017 (Forst) Kirchenstück Riesling GG
White and yellow nectarine, intense, still quite compact, good depth. 92+/A
2017 (Forst) Pechstein Riesling GG
White peach skin nose and mouth, nervy, reductive, energetic. 93/A
2017 (Ruppertsberg) Reiterpfad - Hofstück Riesling GG
Nervy white peach skin fruit. Medium-light, energetic. 92/A
2017 (Ruppertsberg) Reiterpfad - In der Hohl Riesling GG
Very high acidity, steely, white fruits. Great energy. 92+/A
Dr. BÜRKLIN-WOLF
2017 (Forst) Pechstein Riesling GG
Intense, deep, hard candy ripe fruits. Still very closed, needs time to open. 92/A
2017 (Forst) Ungeheuer Riesling GG
Very earthy; brand, doesn’t seem quite right. ?