Domaine Ghislaine BARTHOD (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please read my general assessment of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

As I mentioned in my notes on Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils, son Clément worked with Ghislaine for the 2018 vintage and has taken over as of the 2019 vintage. 

Harvesting here began on 26 August. Yields were in the range of 30-35 hl/ha, about 25-30% less than in 2017. Malo-lactic fermentations finished in January and February.

As always, splendid wines here. The range of premiers crus has increased to eleven.

Domaine Jacques-Frédéric MUGNIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

Frédéric Mugnier said that harvesting began with the Bonnes-Mares on 28 August -- the parcel had suffered from drought, receiving no rain from July until October. The harvesting for the other Chambolle vineyards began on 1 September, and the Nuits were harvested on 8 September. He said that quantities were good. Alcohols for the Chambolle wines were between 13º and 13.5º; for the Clos de la Maréchale (which had suffered from the hail over the summer, with half the crop lost in red, a little less in white), they are 14º to 14.5º. Some malo-lactic fermentations went quickly, others not.

He noted that over the last five years, acidities have been good despite high sugar levels (which correspond to high alcohols). This is the effect of global warming, and it will be necessary to rethink standard rules in dealing with this changed environment. 

Domaine ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

Harvesting began on 4 September and lasted eight days. The wines are about half whole clusters. Very little triage was necessary. Quantities are good, similar to 2009. No pigeage (punching down) here, only remontage (pumping over) and a little délestage (rack and return).  Alcohols range from 13º to 13.5º. Malo-lactic fermentations went very quickly.

These are good wines for the vintage, but as noted below, some lack tension compared to more classic vintages.


Domaine Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Part III: Beaujolais Crus Tasted from Barrel

Louis Boillot purchased properties in the Beaujolais some years back and from the beginning has been making some of the most delicious wines that I know from that region. I’ve had plenty of 2018 Beaujolais that I did not like, but that’s anything but the case here. 

Vinification is the same as at the Boillot estate for the Côte d’ Or wines.

The wines were tasted in November 2019 with plans to bottle them in May or June 2020.


Domaine Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Part I: Côte de Beaune Wines Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

2018 is a transitional year at the estate as Clément Boillot, son of Louis Boillot and Ghislaine Barthod, fermented the wines here with his father (and likewise fermented at his mother’s estate with her). In 2019, Clément assumed primary responsibility, with the parents of course around to help or advise as needed.

Harvesting began in Volnay on 25 August (and on the Côte de Nuits on the following day). Because vineyards ripened at different times, it took three separate passes in the Côte de Beaune to harvest.

Malo-lactic fermentations finished in the winter. Alcohols range from 12.8º to 13.8 or 14º. There were one or two punchdowns (pigeages) per day.

Consistency and quality could be the motto here, and once again they show in 2018.

Domaine ARNOUX-LACHAUX -- 2018 Part I: Regional and Village Wines Tasted from Barrel, and a Pair of 2017s Tasted from Bottle

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Arnoux-Lachaux has become one of the most talked-about domaines in Burgundy with wines now fully in the new style and at greatly increased prices. Basically, for style, quality, and price think Domaine Leroy and Jean-Yves Bizot, two other domaines that coincidentally are also located in Vosne-Romanée.

Harvesting began on 3 September with the vineyards in Vosne-Romanée. Volumes were down 50%. Charles Lachaux described the quantities as ideal, giving concentrated wines. He has used more leaf cover, all whole clusters, and vinfied the wines without SO2. The highest alcohol was 13.2º. Pigeages (punch downs) were limited to one to three times per day in order to avoid extracting too much. Malo-lactic fermentations went quickly -- many finished by November, and the latest finished in January.

New oak is 10-12% for the village wines, a maximum of 20% for the premier cru wines, and a maximum of 30% for the grand cru wines. That’s quite a change from the days of Charles’s father when substantially more new oak (up to 100% for top wines) was employed. 

Other changes include use of ultra-light tractors (20% of normal weight) in the vineyards to prevent soil compaction, and, importantly, working biodynamically. With respect to the biodynamic practices, this has been going on for some time and the estate is now certified, although Charles will not put the certification on the wine labels.

Two things to keep in mind about the wines being made here: 

To add to the great work Charles is doing, the estate has a magnificent set of vineyards, often with the best or among the best plots of a given appellation; and

2. Although these wines are stylistically different from the wines Charles’s father Pascal Lachaux made, those earlier wines were quite good within the context of their time.


Domaine Bruno CLAVELIER (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Part II: Premier and Grand Cru Wines Tasted from Barrel Samples

Please see here for my introduction of the 2018 vintage at the estate.

(Continue reading here.)

Domaine Bruno CLAVELIER (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Part I: Regional and Village Wines from Bottle and from Barrel Samples Bruno Clavelier said that he began

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Bruno Clavelier said that he began harvesting on 30 August with the Corton and finished on 5 September. He used a good portion of stems – 50-60% (he uses them to layer in a way that he calls sandwiching). Malo-lactic fermentations began in winter and were done by February. This is another estate where quantities in 2018 were less than in 2017; the premiers and grands crus came in at about 37-38 hl/ha. Alcohols are in the range of 13-13.5º, with the regional wines being 12-12.5º. 

(Continue reading here.)

Domaine DIGIOIA-ROYER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 tasted from bottle, tank sample, and barrel

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Harvesting began on 6 September in Chambolle-Musigny and on the 12th in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits said Michel Digioia.

Quantities here are a little below those of 2017. Alcohols go from 13.2º to 14º, with 14.6º being an outlier highest. It was not easy to get all the alcoholic fermentations to finish. As usual here, all grapes were destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were very long; the first began in winter and they finished in June and July. 

Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) 2018 Tasted from Barrel Part I: Regional and Village Wines

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Mathilde Grivot said that harvesting began on 11 September — in hot years, the Pinot Noir is constructed around the tannins (something I pointed out years ago when initially reporting on the 2003s). By harvesting this late there was the opportunity for rain several days before to fully allow for ripening of the tannins. She said that sugars did not change, but the acidities concentrated: pHs around 3.50, total acidity in the range of 3.1-3.3. 

As is customary at Grivot, grapes were entirely destemmed. Quantities are generous — only five barrels below the maximum for the cellar. Malo-lactic fermentations were quicker than usual (this cellar is usually quite slow): finishing in February to April for the Bourgogne and village wines, later for the 1er cru and grand cru wines.

The Bourgogne and the village wines have 20% new oak, the 1er crus 30-35%, and the grands crus 35-50%. 

Although it often is true in this vintage that for late picking, the wines are ripe and even overripe (and often less good the quality than wines from earlier in the vintage), these wines stand out as counter-examples to such a generalization.


Domaine FOLLIN-ARBELET (Aloxe-Corton) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Tank and Some 2017s Tasted from Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)

Franck Follin-Arbelet said the he began harvesting on 29 August with the Charlemagne (the red Corton), then moved to the Aloxe-Clos du Chapître. Quantities are good but less than 2017. Alcohols generally are in the 13.5º-14º range with just a few above 14º. Grapes were entirely destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were very early, finishing in autumn and early winter. 

This is an excellent set of wines with freshness being a constant theme throughout the line.

Starting with the reds:

BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2018 Part III: Whites Tasted from Tank and Barrel Samples

My introduction to the vintage at Bouchard P&F is here.

All whites have DIAM closures, which Bouchard has found to stop premature oxidation.


BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2018 Part I: Côte de Beaune Red Wines Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)

My congratulations to Frédéric Weber, technical director here. As I’ve previously noted, the 2018 vintage was quite complicated, in part because of the fact that the ripening of the grapes moved so quickly. But even with the large and extended set of vineyards that Bouchard has, the task was managed with great aplomb and the results are excellent; maybe the best set of red wines I've tasted here. 

Bouchard owns 130 ha, of which115 currently are in production (the rest is replanting). 30 ha are in biodynamic production — part close to Meursault, part close to Savigny (including Beaune Clos de la Mousse, Enfant Jésus, Corton-Charlemagne). Those locations permit close monitoring. Bouchard intends to continue expanding biodynamic production.

Philippe Prost, Weber’s predecessor, explained that 2018 was different from 2003 because they had 14 days for picking in 2018, whereas in 2003, they had to pick all at once: 2003 was drier winter and so there weren’t the water reserves to allow a smoother, more continued development. 2018 had less tannins than in 2003, but the index was still high. As in 2003, in 2018 Bouchard cut back in amount of new oak for the reds — average about 35%, maximum about 40-45%, and I think that made a big difference.

For the reds, there was a cool (not cold) maceration for 2-3 days before alcoholic fermentation. Care was taken not to do too much punching down, and there were more whole clusters than usual. Alcohols ranged from 13.5% to 14.5%.

The top reds are sealed with cork from Sardinia (high density) — and have a warranty against corkiness.

Hubert LIGNIER (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Part I: Regional and Village Wines Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)

Laurent Lignier said that he began harvesting 4 September, and finished on 12 September. 

He performed 5-6 days of pre-fermentation maceration and light extraction — more pumping over (remontage) and not much punching down (pigeage). For inspiration, in 2003 the estate didn’t do any punching down, and Laurent likes the 2003s today. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were mostly done between November and mid-December, a few went into beginning of year. All of the malos began after the alcoholic fermentations. The great majority of the wines include 30% whole clusters, the highest proportion Laurent has ever done; he did this to preserve freshness and elegance and elegance in the wines. 

With respect to alcohols, the Gevrey-Chambertin, La Justice at 13.1º is the lowest; the Bourgogne Grand Chaillot at 14.7º is the highest.  (The Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte is only other other wine above 14º). As other producers noted, the grapes moved very fast in ripeness, gaining 3º of potential alcohol in two weeks. Most of the wines are in the mid-13º range.

Laurent has been doing a magnificent job at this estate and the tricky 2018 vintage is just another example.

Beginning with 2019, the estate is certified organic.

Domaine Georges MUGNERET-GIBOURG (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

My notes on the 2017s tasted from barrel at Mugneret-Gibourg are here.

As is evident from these notes compared to my previous post, 2017 is a vintage at this estate more to my style than 2018.

Domaine Georges MUGNERET-GIBOURG (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d'Or here.)

Although quantities are good in 2018, they will go down again in 2019 — lacking 40%, and so comparable to 2016(!). 

Harvesting began on 4 or 5 September. There is some whole cluster fruit in the Echézeaux only. 

There was a bit of a gap between the end of the alcoholic fermentations and the beginning of the malo-lactic fermentations, but the latter were done by December. Alcohols range from 13.5º to 14.2º. 

The percentage of new oak is 20% for the Bourgogne, 30% for the village wines, 40-45% for the premiers crus, and 60-80% for the grands crus — the normal percentages here.

Here one can see the rapid progression of the ripening at the time of harvest — some wines are in a more classic style, others go to a riper style.

With the reclamation of vines that had been sharecropped, the estate now is 8 ha, as opposed to 6 ha about ten years ago. 

Domaine Robert CHEVILLON (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and a 2017 Tasted from Bottle

Please see my overview of the vintage here.

Bertrand Chevillon said that in Cailles, Vaucrains, and Les Saint-Georges, losses from hail were about 20-30% with Les Saint-Georges being the worst hit.

Harvesting began on 5 September and finished around 14-15 September. Alcohols are around 14º with 14.2º at the maximum. As usual, all grapes were destemmed, 30% new oak. Malo-lactic fermentations finished for the village wine in February and in spring for the premiers crus. Bertrand said that he would bottle as late as possible.

As a group, these wines were on the riper side of the vintage in style, but not over the line for my tastes. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de la ROMANÉE-CONTI (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

My review of the 2017 wines from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti tasted from barrel and explanation of the vintage is here.

The most notable fact is the exceptional quality of each of the wines. Should you be lucky enough to have access to and means to afford these wines, you don’t have to go for Romanée-Conti or La Tâche to experience the top greatness of Burgundy here. Each wine is in its proper place, although there is the unusual inversion of personalities of Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Richebourg that I observed already last year.

Domaine de la ROMANÉE-CONTI (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

It was a roller-coaster growing season for everyone in Burgundy, but magnified in Vosne-Romanée where there was the most serious mildew pressure of recent years (but virtually no mildew in adjacent Flagey-Echézeaux or at Corton). There was some roasting of grapes in August in Vosne as a result of the mildew, and so those grapes were removed through sorting in the vineyards and again when the grapes came in to be crushed.

By mid-August, sugar levels of the grapes were already showing maturity, but the phenolic ripeness wasn’t there, and so the harvest waited. The vines were in a better position than in 2003, however, because there were better groundwater reserves to provide resistance to the heat. With hot, but not overly hot, weather the last ten days of August, the ripening accelerated, and on 31 August, the harvesting began at Corton, the first time the Domaine had harvested in August since 2003.

On 3 September, the harvesting began in Vosne with Richebourg, then in order Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Romanée-Conti (on 8 September, the day after a small storm the previous night), Grands-Echézeaux, Echézeaux, and La Tâche (finishing on 12 September). The Montrachet was harvested on 7 September. As mentioned above, there was a sorting of the grapes.

Yields ranged from 18 hl/ha for Romanée-Conti to 32 hl/ha for Grands-Echézeaux and 35 hl/ha for Corton. For Montrachet, I do not have a precise figure, but Aubert de Villaine’s vintage summary described the quantities as those “which we have not seen for some time”, keeping with what many other white producers experienced.

The vintage summary (dated 15 October 2018) also describes the wines as having the fruit of 2015 and the ripeness of 2003.


Robert GROFFIER Père & Fils (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here.)

Nicolas Groffier said that harvesting began on 29 August. The first three wines below are 13.3º natural alcohol, the rest are about 13.0º natural alcohol. Yields were 38-39 hl/ha.

Malolactic fermentations were late — Nicolas used CO2 to delay them.

Nicolas started at Groffier in 2004; 2006-7 were first vintages he did on his own. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine HUDELOT-NOËLLAT (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.

Regular readers know that I’ve long been very positive on the wines here, but the 2018s rise above previous levels. This is one of the most impressive collections of the vintage.

Charles van Canneyt said that harvesting began on 5 September. Alcohols ranged from 13.5º to 14.2/3º. Charles did not want too much extraction and so did pumping over rather than punching down of the caps. All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations finished in July. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine François LAMARCHE (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Harvesting began on 7 September. Quantities were "correct" and malolactic fermentations were normal — beginning in December and proceeding slowly. Thirty percent whole clusters in each wine. The highest alcohol is 13.6%.

Lamarche went for elegance an restraint in this vintage, and it paid off, especially at the top end. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Réyane et Pascal BOULEY/Pierrick BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank and Barrel

(Please read my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Pierrick Bouley said the harvested the Champans on 26 August and the Clos des Chênes the following day, but really began the harvest on 30 August. Overall yield for the estate was 42 hl/ha — reasonable for the vintage and less than the estate harvested in 2017.

All grapes were destemmed. Vatting lasted 18-25 days. Malo-lactic fermentations were rapid, with some even before the alcoholic fermentations had finished (I detected no problems with brett or volatile acidity, which can sometimes occur in such circimstances). Vinification was without SO2 until racking, which took place in September 2019. 

Another excellent vintage from this Volnay estate that still remains a bit under the radar. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine LAFARGE-VIAL (Beaujolais) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Samples

This is the Beaujolais estate of Frédéric and Chantal (née Vial) Lafarge of Domaine Michel Lafarge in Volnay. Like the Volnay estate, it is run organically and biodynamically.

The wines were tasted just prior to bottling. The alcohols are in the range of 12.5-13.0º. About 25-28% whole clusters were used in the wines; what destemming took place was done by hand. I am not a fan of much of what I have tasted from 2018 in the Beaujolais, but these wines are a pleasant exception, showing very well with good finesse and freshness. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Michel LAFARGE (Volnay) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Sample and Barrel

(Please see my overall review of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

My first morning of visiting Burgundy cellars as a journalist (not my first day of visiting in Burgundy cellars, though) was in 1988 and included a visit to Michel Lafarge. He had a reputation already in the US, although it was somewhat underground. I was astounded by what I tasted from the 1987 and 1986 vintages, neither one renowned in Burgundy. Since then, the estate has justifiably been recognized as one of the very great Burgundy domaines.

Michel died this past January at the age of 91, the result of complications from a fall a few weeks before. I last saw him in November 2018 at a dinner celebrating his 90th birthday and even then, he was bright and alert, as I understand he was until right before his fall. I have passed many unforgettable moments with Michel and son Frédéric in the cellar and also about 6-7 years ago when Michel took me and two others on a walking tour of the vineyards of Volnay. He was a great man (longtime mayor of Volnay) as well as a great wine producer.

Frédéric Lafarge was very enthusiastic about the 2018 vintage when I arrived for my scheduled tasting, but I discounted that somewhat because I had already had visits where the vignerons were enthusiastic, but the wines did perform as promised. At Lafarge, though, 2018 genuinely is a great vintage, as my notes below show. Frédéric said that Michel had compared 2018 to 1990 for potential for aging and 1959 for purity of fruit. I have had on one occasion and enjoyed the 1959 Clos des Chênes, but I am more familiar with the 1990 version, a great wine by any standard (from  a vintage about which I have my reservations in general), and indeed one that exceeds most grands crus from the same year.

Frédéric said that harvest began on 1 September with the Caillerets, then there was a pause until 4 September when the harvesting of the others began. He described quantities as “normal”, and all grapes were destemmed, as is the habit here. The Clos du Château des Ducs, Caillerets, and Pézerolles were all destemmed by hand. Malolactic fermentations began in December and finished in January.

As usual, we begin with the whites, where alcoholic fermentations were slow: (Continue reading here.)

Domaine CAMUS-BRUCHON (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples and Some 2017s and a 2016 Tasted from Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Guillaume Camus said he began harvesting on 30 August, and he finished on 5 September. He described quantities as "correct", but not more, and in fact, less than for 2017. 

Since 2010, he has been using 30% whole clusters in all cuvées. Wines from the plain had high degrees, 1er crus less alcohol, overall 13-13.5%. Malo-lactic fermentations were variable, some early, others not, overall most finished in June.

This collection is an excellent success for the vintage with wines substantially better than many others that will sell for many multiples of these wines’ prices. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TRAPET Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here.

Jean-Louis Trapet said that harvesting began on Thursday, 6 September. There was heavy use of whole clusters in this vintage, ranging from about 40-50% all the way up to 100%. Malolactic fermentations took place over the winter.

Most of these wines bear a strong signature of the vintage, lacking in many cases the tension and nervosity that appear in most vintages, yet they are successful nonetheless. (Continue reading here.)

Maison MARCHAND-TAWSE -- 2018 Reds Tasted from Barrel

Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here and my notes on the 2018 Domaine Tawse wines here

As with the Domaine Tawse wines, there are some very ripe wines here that will not please lovers of classic Burgundy style. (Continue reading here.)

Villa WOLF (Pfalz) -- 2018 and a 2017 Spätburgunder

Villa Wolf is a négociant operation of Ernest Loosen of Dr. Loosen in the Mosel. The wines, from the Pfalz region, in my experience are keenly priced. Keep that in mind when you seem some of the letter grades below — the wines are being compared with other wines in their class that are considerably more expensive. (Continue reading here.)

Weingut WITTMANN and 100 HILLS (Rheinhessen): 2018 and a 2017 Spätburgunder

Philipp Wittmann not only is one of the greatest German white wine producers, in my experience he is one of my favorites worldwide. Demand is high, but the wines, especially the estate wines, are worth seeking out. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Harvesting for estate red wines began on 3 September in Beaune (some of the whites, which I did not have time to taste, were picked the preceding weekend). Harvest lasted to 13 September for domaine wines, selected negociant wines picked after that.

Malo-lactic fermentations were variable, none started before the alcoholic fermentations had finished. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were variable, none started before the alcoholic fermentations had finished. There are some very ripe wines here that will not please lovers of classic Burgundies, but the wines from the former Domaine Maume have turned out very well.(Continue reading here.)