Villa WOLF (Pfalz) -- 2018 and a 2017 Spätburgunder


Villa Wolf is a négociant operation of Ernest Loosen of Dr. Loosen in the Mosel. The wines, from the Pfalz region, in my experience are keenly priced. Keep that in mind when you seem some of the letter grades below — the wines are being compared with other wines in their class that are considerably more expensive.

nv Pinot Noir Rosé Sparkling (Extra Dry, Deutscher Sekt)
This wine has no real personality — some vague red fruits, a bit of sweetness, no crispness. Nothing terrible, but nothing really interesting. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L810ET2. 84/D

2017 Pinot Noir
This delicious, if simple, negociant Pinot Noir red shows up many Grosse Gewächse that try to hard and over-extract and over-oak. Medium-light, the wine has attractive, well-defined dark cherry fruit with good freshness. It’s hard to find a Pinot Noir this good at this price, or even double the price these days. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1119. 86/B

2018 Riesling  dry
This Riesling tastes slightly sweet with good balancing acidity, medium-weight, some power, and lemon drop fruit. It can serve as an aperitif but probably is better with food such as pork, poultry, cheese, and cold cuts. 11.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1319. 86/C

2018 Wachenheimer Riesling dry
Although Villa Wolf is a negociant label owned by Ernie Loosen, this wine, in fact, is from vines in the Wachenheimer Königswert vineyard that are part of the J. L. Wolf estate that Loosen exploits. The wine is an excellent expression of the sandstone and loam soils with breadth in the mouth but full dryness, nervy acidity, and austere minerality. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 01819.  89/B+

2018 Pinot Gris
This Pinot Gris, made without oak, is racy and completely dry with ripe white fruits and an interesting contrast of juiciness offset by the acidity. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 19.  87/B

2018 Gewürztraminer
This wine is medium-weight and spicy with apple and rose aromas and flavors in a medium-weight body, and enough acidity (no malo-lacitic fermentation) to give an essentially-dry finish despite 18.4 g/l residual sugar. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1019. 88/B+

2018 Pinot Noir Rosé
 Although a negociant wine from the tricky 2018 vintage, the result is a first-class rose with intense strawberry fruit in the nose and mouth, a medium-weight body, and very good, lively acidity. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 31 18. 87/A