(Please see my overall review of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)
My first morning of visiting Burgundy cellars as a journalist (not my first day of visiting in Burgundy cellars, though) was in 1988 and included a visit to Michel Lafarge. He had a reputation already in the US, although it was somewhat underground. I was astounded by what I tasted from the 1987 and 1986 vintages, neither one renowned in Burgundy. Since then, the estate has justifiably been recognized as one of the very great Burgundy domaines.
Michel died this past January at the age of 91, the result of complications from a fall a few weeks before. I last saw him in November 2018 at a dinner celebrating his 90th birthday and even then, he was bright and alert, as I understand he was until right before his fall. I have passed many unforgettable moments with Michel and son Frédéric in the cellar and also about 6-7 years ago when Michel took me and two others on a walking tour of the vineyards of Volnay. He was a great man (longtime mayor of Volnay) as well as a great wine producer.
Frédéric Lafarge was very enthusiastic about the 2018 vintage when I arrived for my scheduled tasting, but I discounted that somewhat because I had already had visits where the vignerons were enthusiastic, but the wines did perform as promised. At Lafarge, though, 2018 genuinely is a great vintage, as my notes below show. Frédéric said that Michel had compared 2018 to 1990 for potential for aging and 1959 for purity of fruit. I have had on one occasion and enjoyed the 1959 Clos des Chênes, but I am more familiar with the 1990 version, a great wine by any standard (from a vintage about which I have my reservations in general), and indeed one that exceeds most grands crus from the same year.
Frédéric said that harvest began on 1 September with the Caillerets, then there was a pause until 4 September when the harvesting of the others began. He described quantities as “normal”, and all grapes were destemmed, as is the habit here. The Clos du Château des Ducs, Caillerets, and Pézerolles were all destemmed by hand. Malolactic fermentations began in December and finished in January.
As usual, we begin with the whites, where alcoholic fermentations were slow: (Continue reading here.)