Hubert LIGNIER (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Part I: Regional and Village Wines Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)

Laurent Lignier said that he began harvesting 4 September, and finished on 12 September. 

He performed 5-6 days of pre-fermentation maceration and light extraction — more pumping over (remontage) and not much punching down (pigeage). For inspiration, in 2003 the estate didn’t do any punching down, and Laurent likes the 2003s today. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were mostly done between November and mid-December, a few went into beginning of year. All of the malos began after the alcoholic fermentations. The great majority of the wines include 30% whole clusters, the highest proportion Laurent has ever done; he did this to preserve freshness and elegance and elegance in the wines. 

With respect to alcohols, the Gevrey-Chambertin, La Justice at 13.1º is the lowest; the Bourgogne Grand Chaillot at 14.7º is the highest.  (The Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte is only other other wine above 14º). As other producers noted, the grapes moved very fast in ripeness, gaining 3º of potential alcohol in two weeks. Most of the wines are in the mid-13º range.

Laurent has been doing a magnificent job at this estate and the tricky 2018 vintage is just another example.

Beginning with 2019, the estate is certified organic.


2018 Bourgogne    Pinot Noir    Plan Gilbert
From a vineyard by Chambolle-Musigny, the wine shows the finesse of Chambolle, iron and red fruits, and a medium-light body with a smooth texture. 20% whole clusters. (86-88)

2018 Bourgogne  Pinot Noir   Grand Chaillot
From a plot by Nuits-Saint-Georges. No whole clusters in this wine because of the damage done by the hail in Nuits. Doesn’t seem 14.7º — red fruits, medium-weight, light on tongue. Still in barrel (which may serve to reduce the alcohol further). (85-87)

2018 Chambolle-Musigny vieilles vignes 
From purchased grapes in the Les Gamaires and Les Drazey lieux-dits,  60-70 year-old vines. About 13,5º alcohol. Dark fruits, light on palate, elegant; fruit is quite ripe. (85-87)

2018 Chambolle-Musigny   Bussière
30% whole clusters. Red and dark fruits. Smooth texture, light on palate, round tannins. Elegant, more freshness than the preceding wine.  (88-91)

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin  La Justice
From purchased grapes. Very pretty, very pure, mineral red fruits; good energy, smooth texture, medium-light. (89-91)

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin  Reniard 
From purchased grapes. Wild Gevrey red fruits with elegance from the mild extraction. Light on palate, good finesse. 13.9º alcohol. (88-90)

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin   Les Seuvrées
Estate wine from the border of Morey-Saint-Denis. Laurent’s great-grandfather acquired the plot and the vines have an average age of 60-65 years. Red and dark fruit nose. Dark berries in mouth, finesse from the lighter extraction, good freshness, nice energy, more density on palate than other two. (91-92)

2018 Morey-Saint-Denis   Très Girard
From purchased grapes. Dark fruits, elegance, smooth, long, fresh, round tannins. (90-92)

2018 Morey-Saint-Denis    Trilogie
Dark fruits, a little riper than the Très Girard. Dense, intense, deep, just short of sappy in quality of fruit, excellent freshness. Estate grapes from three different, very old vineyards. (91-93)

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   Les Poisets
An estate wine. Some hail here — lost 20-25%. More density than the foregoing wines. Deep, fresh, dark berry fruits. Round tannins, good length. (91-93)

2018 Pommard   En Brescul
Black pepper in nose. Dark fruits, smooth, elegant, deep. Estate wine from 41 ares purchased in 2014; vineyard planted in 1997.(89-92)