(Please see my overall review of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)
My first morning of visiting Burgundy cellars as a journalist (not my first day of visiting in Burgundy cellars, though) was in 1988 and included a visit to Michel Lafarge. He had a reputation already in the US, although it was somewhat underground. I was astounded by what I tasted from the 1987 and 1986 vintages, neither one renowned in Burgundy. Since then, the estate has justifiably been recognized as one of the very great Burgundy domaines.
Michel died this past January at the age of 91, the result of complications from a fall a few weeks before. I last saw him in November 2018 at a dinner celebrating his 90th birthday and even then, he was bright and alert, as I understand he was until right before his fall. I have passed many unforgettable moments with Michel and son Frédéric in the cellar and also about 6-7 years ago when Michel took me and two others on a walking tour of the vineyards of Volnay. He was a great man (longtime mayor of Volnay) as well as a great wine producer.
Frédéric Lafarge was very enthusiastic about the 2018 vintage when I arrived for my scheduled tasting, but I discounted that somewhat because I had already had visits where the vignerons were enthusiastic, but the wines did perform as promised. At Lafarge, though, 2018 genuinely is a great vintage, as my notes below show. Frédéric said that Michel had compared 2018 to 1990 for potential for aging and 1959 for purity of fruit. I have had on one occasion and enjoyed the 1959 Clos des Chênes, but I am more familiar with the 1990 version, a great wine by any standard (from a vintage about which I have my reservations in general), and indeed one that exceeds most grands crus from the same year.
Frédéric said that harvest began on 1 September with the Caillerets, then there was a pause until 4 September when the harvesting of the others began. He described quantities as “normal”, and all grapes were destemmed, as is the habit here. The Clos du Château des Ducs, Caillerets, and Pézerolles were all destemmed by hand. Malolactic fermentations began in December and finished in January.
As usual, we begin with the whites, where alcoholic fermentations were slow:
2018 Bourgogne-Aligoté Raisins Dorés
One of the best Raisins Dorés in memory, this wine is rich, pure and long with apply fruit that is golden, good acidity, and a creamy texture. (88-90)
2018 Meursault
This wine features hazelnut aromas and flavors typical of Meursault and it has some length in a medium-weight body. (86-88)
2018 Meursault vendanges sélectionnées
With classic hazelnut and lime aromas and flavors, this wine also features a creamy texture and greater density than the straight Meursault. (88-90)
2018 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots
The Clos des Aigrots is mineral and pure with moderate acidity, richness, freshness, and apple fruit. (90-92)
Moving to the reds:
Alcohols for the reds range from 12.8º to 13.3º, remarkably balanced for this vintage.
2018 Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains L’Exception
This wine is fresh with cassis fruit and good acidity. (87-89)
2018 Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains Anthologie
This is a special cuvée to celebrate Michel Lafarge’s 90th birthday in 2018. The wine is from vines (half Gamay, half Pinot Noir) that are 90+ years old. It has been raised in oversized barrels and foudre and will be bottled only in magnum. The wine is mineral with cassis fruit with greater density and intensity than the previous wine. (88-91)
2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
The Bourgogne has red currant fruit, good acidity, energy, freshness, and length. (88-90)
2018 Côte de Beaune-Villages
From vines in Meursault, this wine features pure cassis and blueberry fruit, freshness, acidity, roundness, depth, and precision, along with tannins to provide aging potential. (89-92)
2018 Volnay
Lafarge’s Volnay has red fruit aromas and flavors, a smooth texture, and overall elegance. (90-92)
2018 Volnay vendanges sélectionnées
The vendanges sélectionnées is tighter and the nose and has more black fruits than the straight Volnay. This wine is smooth, round and elegant with more depth and substance. (91-94)
2018 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots
This wine is smooth and round with underlying structure, good cassis fruit, and depth. (92-94)
2018 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
These are the oldest vines in the estate; Frédéric said 87 years (i.e., dating to 1931), but other sources have written dating to 1951. Either way, this is sensational wine, and one that comes drinks well without going into a prolonged closed period that frequently typifies Lafarge’s wines. The wine has dark fruits, the creaminess of old vines, length, and balance. (93-95)
2018 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles
The Pézerolles has reduction nutshell aromas. The mouth is creamy with dark fruits, elegance, and length. It is Lafarge’s smallest holding, at 14 ares, and thus a rare wine. (93-95)
2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Pitures
From the part of Pitures formerly known as Chanlins and by the Pommard border, this is a wine with plenty of structure, good depth, and lovely cassis and red cherry fruit. (92-95)
2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans
The Mitans is a wine of dark fruits, sensuality, and purity. (93-95)
2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets
The Caillerets is light and very elegant with red fruits; the wine seems to float above the tongue but also has real substance. (93-95)
2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
The nose of the Clos des Chênes is deep and stony with dark fruits. The mouth is intense and dense with dark fruits, stoniness, structure, and freshness. (94-96)
2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs
The Clos du Château des Ducs is a monopole vineyard literally in Lafarge’s backyard. For the second year in a row, it was presented after the Clos des Chênes, which is the traditional closer at Lafarge. For the second year in a row, the Clos du Château des Ducs stood up to the task. The wine has red fruits, sensuality, and a smooth texture. It resembles a hypothetical mixture of the Mitans and the Clos des Chênes. (94-96)