(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)
My congratulations to Frédéric Weber, technical director here. As I’ve previously noted, the 2018 vintage was quite complicated, in part because of the fact that the ripening of the grapes moved so quickly. But even with the large and extended set of vineyards that Bouchard has, the task was managed with great aplomb and the results are excellent; maybe the best set of red wines I've tasted here.
Bouchard owns 130 ha, of which115 currently are in production (the rest is replanting). 30 ha are in biodynamic production — part close to Meursault, part close to Savigny (including Beaune Clos de la Mousse, Enfant Jésus, Corton-Charlemagne). Those locations permit close monitoring. Bouchard intends to continue expanding biodynamic production.
Philippe Prost, Weber’s predecessor, explained that 2018 was different from 2003 because they had 14 days for picking in 2018, whereas in 2003, they had to pick all at once: 2003 was drier winter and so there weren’t the water reserves to allow a smoother, more continued development. 2018 had less tannins than in 2003, but the index was still high. As in 2003, in 2018 Bouchard cut back in amount of new oak for the reds — average about 35%, maximum about 40-45%, and I think that made a big difference.
For the reds, there was a cool (not cold) maceration for 2-3 days before alcoholic fermentation. Care was taken not to do too much punching down, and there were more whole clusters than usual. Alcohols ranged from 13.5% to 14.5%.
The top reds are sealed with cork from Sardinia (high density) — and have a warranty against corkiness.
2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Réserve
95% purchased grapes, 5% from estate; aged in barrels. Already assembled and waiting to be bottle. Smooth, ripe, round with cassis and blueberry fruit. Enjoyable. (86-88)
2018 Monthélie
25% whole clusters. Two locations, one cooler, one warmer. Domaine wine. Smooth, pure, fresh, medium-weight, silky texture, dark berry fruits. (88-90)
2018 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Lavières
Mineral, nervy Savigny red fruits nose. Round, dark fruits, grapy, balanced, elegant, smooth. Medium-weight. Domaine wine. (89-90)
2018 Beaune du Château 1er Cru
Smooth, dense, pure, focused, dark fruit, good freshness, definition, elegance. More marl than clay in the blend. Domaine wine. Should be an excellent value, as is generally the case. Domaine wine. (90-92)
2018 Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse
Pure, focused red raspberry and dark fruits, elegant, precise, smooth texture, elegant. Fine tannins, silky texture. The last several vintages here have moved up a clear notch. Domaine wine. (92-93)
2018 Beaune-Grèves 1er Cru Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus
Complex vegetal (positive) aromas, smooth, round, more volume than Clos de la Mousse. Dark grapy cassis fruit, no overripeness, good freshness, very approachable. Domaine wine. (93-95)
2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot
Very dark color, dark fruits in nose and mouth, less developed than the previous wines. Ripe, with Caillerets texture, round, soft. This was a later malo than previous wines. Domaine wine. (92-93)
2018 Le Corton
Earthy (positive) nose. Exotic, pure, complex black and red fruits, good freshness and finesse. Medium-weight, smooth, complex, round tannins. Should drink well young and is a great success. 300 m altitude — highest Pinot location for Domaine Bouchard. Domaine wine. (95-97)