Weingut WITTMANN and 100 HILLS (Rheinhessen): 2018 and a 2017 Spätburgunder



Philipp Wittmann not only is one of the greatest German white wine producers, in my experience he is one of my favorites worldwide. Demand is high, but the wines, especially the estate wines, are worth seeking out.

Wittmann/100 Hills Label 

This label is used for negociant wines that Philipp Wittmann makes from fruit that he purchases. Certified organic.

2018 Riesling dry
For a modestly-priced Riesling, it’s going to be hard to find a better value than this wine. The wine is pure, clear, and chiseled with mineral fruit and just enough sugar to give roundness and suppleness to the body without any sweetness. Quality here is very close to that of the estate Riesling below. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 003 19.  88/B

2018 Pinot Blanc  dry
This is an outstanding wine for its class with spiced pear fruit, salinity, slight creaminess of texture, and overall raciness. So far, the best examples of German (or anywhere) Pinot Blanc that I’ve had are from producers a little bit further south from here in the Pfalz, but they usually are Grosses Gewächs and at prices that make this wine a most attractive alternative for other than the most serious drinking. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 002 19.  88/B+

2018 Rosé dry
This Pinot Noir rosé is made from Pinot Noir that undergoes a short maceration (as opposed to rosé made from bleeding the juice off the vats). It is about 40% from Wittmann estate fruit, the rest from local producers in Naturland, a program for certification of organic production. The wine is floral and medium-weight with strawberry fruit, but I find the acidity a touch aggressive (and I generally love acidity in wines). Total acidity is 6.9 g/l and residual sugar to balance it is but 0.8 g/l. I’d tend to serve this wine above cellar temperature to reduct the acidity’s bite. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 004 19.  84/C



Weingut Wittmann (estate wines)

The wines are certified biodynamic and organic.


2017 Spätburgunder trocken  
This is the first time I’ve tasted one of Wittmann’s Pinot Noirs from bottle. It’s an attractive introduction to German Pinots Noirs. Relatively light in color, the wine has an attractive nose of strawberries with some herbs. The body is medium-light and elegant and strawberries continue here with an attractive salinity and enough acid to keep the wine lively. Wittmann also has a more expensive Westhofener Spätburgunder that I have not tasted. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 018 18.   87/B

2018 Rosé  trocken
Like the 100 Hills rosé above, this wine is made by gentle pressing, not by a bleeding of the vats. But it otherwise is a very different animal. Only 75% Pinot Noir, the remaining 25% is from the St. Laurent grape, acidity is lower at 5.4 g/l and it is balanced by 3.1 g/l residual sugar. The resulting wine is round, medium-light, dry, and not harsh with pleasant strawberry fruit.11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 009 19. 87/A

2018 Riesling trocken
From Wittmann’s own vineyards located around the village of Westhofen, this is a wine well above it class as an entry-level estate Riesling. It is crisp, pure, deep, and lively with white grapefruit aromas and flavors, a medium-weight body, and very good depth. The wine finishes fully dry, but is not harsh. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 006 19. 90/B+

2018 Westhofener Riesling trocken
This wine is from Wittmann’s young vines in the grand cru Morstein and Brunnenhäuschen vineyards. Its nobility of texture and expression of fruit show these origins. The wine has the chipped stone aromas and flavors that are typical of the limestone in the Westhofen vineyards, and the flavors are show lemon and grapefruit. The richness of 2018 is here, but also the noble firmness. The wine drinks well already but should age well for 15-20 years. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 014 19. 92/A

2018 (Westhofen) Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Chalky nose with peach underneath. Medium-weight in mouth, round, silky, peach, finesse. 93/A

2018 (Westhofen) Brunnenhäuschen Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Lightly floral, somewhat dusty nose. Elegant white fruits, great finesse, good length. Very noble. One of the top GG’s of the vintage. 93(+)/A

2018 (Westhofen) Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Peach and apricot, sensual, round, smooth, deep. 93/A

2018 (Westhofen) Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Finesse, light weight, ripe but elegant white fruits. Good length. 92/A

2018 (Westhofen) La Borne Riesling trocken  “Alte Reben” (auction wine)
The superb La Borne is pure, mineral, dry, elegant, and light on the palate. La Borne is a parcel in the upper portion of the Morstein vineyard that has plenty of limestone and gives a particular chalky character.  94/A