2020 and 2021 Carnuntum ÖTW Erste Lage Red Wines from Ried Haldacker, Ried Kirchweingarten, Ried Rosenberg, Ried Spitzerberg-Kranzen, Ried Spitzerberg Obere Rotard, Ried Spitzerberg-Obere Spitzer, Ried Steinäcker from Artner, Dietrich, Muhr, Netzl, Pimpel, Pitnauer

 

We turn now to Carnuntum. In the past, it has been known for easy-drinking red wines, but it is now trying to move up the quality scale. Blaufränkisch seems to be the grape of the future in this area that is south and southeast of Vienna.  


I tasted thirty-five wines from  2020 and 2019. I reproduce only my notes on the better wines; as for the rest, they ranged from not especially interesting to seriously flawed. Unfortunately, we did not have any wine from Trapl or Markowitsch, both producers of high reputation. (Continue reading here.)


2021 Wien Riesling ÖTW Erste Lage from Ried Preussen, Ried Rosengartl, Ried Sätzen from Cobenzl, Edlmoser, Furhgassl-Huber, Mayer am Pfarrplatz, Wieninger

 

As with the Grüner Veltliner from Wien (Vienna), the overall Riesling quality is honorable even though not up to the level of some of the more celebrated regions to the west, and Mayer am Pfarrplatz here, too, is a revelation. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Wien ÖTW Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner from Ried Gollin, Ried Preussen, Ried Schenkenberg, Ried Steinberg from Fuhrgassl-Huber, Hajszan-Neumann, Mayer am Pfarrplatz, Wieninger

 

Vienna is not as famous for Grüner Veltliner as the regions to the west such as Wachau and Kamptal, but these wines are quite honorable, and in the case of Mayer am Pfarrplatz, a revelation. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Wien ÖTW Erste Lage Weissburgunder from Ried Falkenberg, Ried Gollin, Ried Schenkenberg, Ried Seidenhaus from Christ, Cobenzl,Fuhrgassl-Huber, Hajszan-Neumann

 

Wine from Vienna dates back to the Middle Ages, but relatively recently, increased attention has been paid to it as it is clear that it can produce wine that is more than just for quaffing in a Heuriger (wine tavern often in the vineyards) on a fine day. 


We start with Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) from vineyards newly designated as Erste Lagen. (Continue reading here.)


2021 Wagram Roter Veltliner ÖTW Erste Lage from Ried Mordthal, Ried Scheiben, Ried Steinberg from Fritsch, Fritz, Leth

 

Despite its name, Roter Veltliner is not related to Grüner Veltliner, but like Grüner Veltliner, it makes white wine. Wagram is the main area where it is cultivated. 


The vine tends to be quite productive and needs to have yields severely limited in order to produce quality wine.


From the villages of Fels am Wagram and Ruppertstal. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Wagram Grüner Veltliner ÖTW Erste Lage Ried Brunnthal, Ried Georgenberg, Ried Goldberg, Ried Hohenberg, Ried Rosenberg, Ried Scheiben, Ried Schlossberg, Ried Spiegel from Diwald, Ehmoser, Fritsch, Fritz, Leth, Ott

 

From the villages of Fels am Wagram, Feuersbrunn, Grossriedenthal, Grossweiersdorf, Mitterstockstall, Oberstockstall. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Wagram Riesling ÖTW Erste Lage from Ried Eisenhut, Ried Goldberg, and Ried Mordthal from Diwald and Fritsch

 

From the towns of Grossriedenthal and Ruppertsthal. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Traisental Grüner Veltliner ÖTW Erste Lage from Ried Alte Setzen, Ried Berg, Ried Hoschschopf, Ried Pletzengraben, Ried Rothenbart, Ried Zwirch from Dockner, Huber, Neumayer

 


From the towns of Getzersdorf, Inzersdorf, Neusiedl, and Reichersdorf. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Traisental ÖTW Riesling Erste Lage from Ried Berg, Ried Pletzengraben, Ried Rothenbart from Dockner, Huber, Neumayer


From the towns of Getzersdorf and Insersdorf. (Continue reading here.)

 


2021 Kremstal Grüner Veltliner ÖTW Erste Lage from Ried Thurenberg, Ried Vordernberg, Ried Wachtberg, Ried Weinzerberg, Ried Zwetl from Buchegger/Vorspannhof Mayr, Nigl, Salomon Undhof, Stadt Krems, Türk

 

From the towns of Krems, Gedersdorf, and Rehberg. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Kremstal ÖTW Erste Lage Riesling from Ried Ehrenfels, Ried Gaisberg, Ried Gebling, Ried Goldberg from Geyerhof, Hermann Moser, Sepp Moser, Nigl, Proidl, Thiery-Weber, Unger

 


2021 Kremstal ÖTW Erste Lage Riesling from Ried Ehrenfels, Ried Gaisberg, Ried Gebling, Ried Goldberg from Geyerhof, Hermann Moser, Sepp Moser, Nigl, Proidl, Thiery-Weber, Unger

 

From Hollenburg, Rohrendorf, Senftenberg, and Stein. (Continue reading here.)

2021, 2020, 2017 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner from Ried Schenbichl, Ried Seeberg, Ried Spiegel, Ried Stein from Ehn, Hiedler, Jurtschitsch, Leindel, Ott, Weszeli

 


From Engsbrunn and Langenlois. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner from Ried Loiserberg, Ried Offenberg, Ried Renner from Allram, Bründlmayer, Hirsch,Jurtschitsch, Loimer, Schloss Gobelsberg, Topf

 

From Kammem and Langenlois. (Continue reading here.)


2021 and 2020 ÖTW Kamptal Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner from Ried Kogelberg and Ried Lamm by Brandl, Bründlmayer, Birgit Eichinger, Hirsch, Schloss Gobelsberg, and Steininger

 


From Kammem and Zöbing. (Continue reading here.)

2021, 2020, and 2017 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner from Ried Käferberg and Ried Kittmannsberg from Bründlmayer, Hiedler, Jurtschitsch, Loimer, Steininger, and Weszeli

 

From Langenlois. (Continue reading here.)



2021 and 2020 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner from Ried Dechant, Ried Gaisberg and Ried Grub from Allram, Dolle, Birgit Eichinger, Hirsch, Jurtschitsch, Schloss Gobelsberg, Topf

 

From Langenlois, Kammern, and Strass im Strassertale. (Continue reading here.)

2021, 2020, and 2017 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Riesling from Ried Seeberg, Ried Steinhaus, Ried Steinmassl, Ried Wechselberg Spiegel from Bründlmayer, Hiedler, Loimer, Steininger, Topf, and Weszeli

 

From Langenlois and Strass im Strassertale. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Riesling from Ried Kogelberg and Ried Loiserberg Riesling from Brandl, Jurtschitsch, Leindl, Loimer, Steininger, Weszeli

 

From Zöbing and Langenlois, more great wines. (Continue reading here.)

2021, 2020, and 2017 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Riesling from Ried Heiligenstein from Allram, Brandl, Bründlmayer, Ehn, Birgit Eichinger, Hiedler, Hirsch, Jurtschtisch, Leindl, Loimer, Schloss Gobelsberg, Topf, Weszeli

 

Anyone who has any doubt that Heiligenstein is one of Riesling’s greatest vineyards need only taste through this selection of wines. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and a 2020 Kamptal ÖTW Erste Lage Riesling from Ried Gaisberg in Zöbing and Kammem by Allram, Dolle, Birgit Eichinger, Hiedler, Hirsch, Schloss Gobelsberg

 

The producer group Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW) has been working for thirty years on a classification of the best vineyards, originally in the Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, and Wagram districts. They now have been joined by the Wien (Vienna) and Carnuntum districts, and hope is that eventually all wine districts in Austria will be covered.


So far the best vineyards have been classified ÖTW Erste Lage (First Growth), but work is being done now to try to pick out those First growths that will qualify as ÖTW Grosse Lage (Great Growth). It is expected that the ÖTW Grosse Lage will comprise about 5% of the vineyard surface and ÖTW Erste Lage will comprise about 15% of the vineyard surface


The wines from the ÖTW Erste Lage vineyards are marked on the label by a symbol with a a “1" followed by “ÖTW" linked together to look like a grape bunch.


The Gaisberg vineyard exists in three communes, Zöbing, Kammem, and Strass. I did not taste any Riesling from the Strass portion. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part VIII - Frauenweingärten, Himmelreich, Kimberg, Kreuzberg, Mugler, Polgen from Fischengruber, Josef Fischer, Schütz, Sigl, Domäne Wachau

 

Grüner Veltliner from Rosatz and Mittermasdorf to finish the Wachau reviews (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part VII -- Schnütt, Steinertal, Süssenberg, Trum from Alzinger, Eder, Hutter, Knoll, Schmelz, Tegernseerhof

 

More Grüner Veltliner from Loibenberg and also from Mauternbach. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part VI -- Kreutles, Loibenberg from Alzinger, Bäuerl, F. J. Gritsch, Knoll, Schmelz

 

Grüner Veltliner from Unterloiben. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part V -- Höhereck, Kaiserberg, Kellerberg, Liebenberg from Alzinger, Högl, Jamek, Tegernseerhof, Domäne Wachau

 

Grüner Veltliner from Dürnstein. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part IV -- Achleiten, Kollmitz, Pichl Point from Jäger, Jamek, PAX, Rudi Pichler, Schmelz, Domäne Wachau

 

The hits just keep on coming. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part III -- St. Michael, Hochrain, Kirchweg, Kollmütz from Atzberg, Johann Donabaum, Franz Hirtzberger, Matias Hirtzberger, Rudi Pichler

 


More beautiful Grüner Veltliners. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part II -- Axpoint, Point, Singerriedl, Steinporz, Zornberg, 100-Elmerberg from Christoph Donabaum, Johann Donabaum, F. J. Gritsch, Thomas Gritsch, Franz Hirtzberger, Hofstätter, Högl, Domäne Wachau

 


A number of superb Grüner Veltliners from the village of Spitz. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part I -- Schön and Kalkofen from Josef Gritsch, Högl, and Piewald

 

Grüner Veltliner came to the world’s attention through the Renaissance of Austrian wines in the 1990s. It has proved to be such a fascinating and versatile wine that it is now being planted in Germany, France, Italy, and the New World to see if they can come up with anything similar. But the true masterpieces remain in Austria, and 2021 is as splendid for GV as for Riesling. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Rieslings Part VII and a 2017 and a 2020 -- Kimberg, Kreuzberg, Silberichl, Vom Stein from Eder, Fischengruber, Fischer, Nikolaihof, Sigl

 

Finishing up the Wachau Rieslings, here including a couple of non-2021 wines. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Rieslings Part VI -- Loibenberg, Schütt, Steinertal from Alzinger, Gattinger, Knoll, Tegernseerhof, Domäne Wachau

 

Superb wines from Unterloiben. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Rieslings Part V -- Höhereck, Hollerin, Kellerberg from Alzinger, Hutter, Knoll, Tegernseerhof, and Domäne Wachau

 

From the town of Dürnstein. Knoll is, as expected, magnificent. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Wachau Rieslings Part IV -- Achleiten, Klaus, Steinriegl from Jäger, Jamek, Rudi Pichler, Prager, Schmelz, Domäne Wachau

 


More great wines, all from the village of Weissenkirchen. (Continue reading here.)



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2021 Wachau Rieslings Part III -- Hochrain, Höll, Kirchweg, Kollmitz, Wösendorf from Mathias Hirtzberger, PAX, Rudi Pichler, Weinhauerei 378

 

(Continue reading here.)

Wachau Rieslings Part II -- Singerriedel, Steinporz, Vogelleithen from Franz Hirtzberger, Hofstätter, and Dom. Wachau

 


The festival continues with more wines from Spitz. (Continue reading here.)


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2021 Wachau Rieslings Part I -- Biern, Hochrain, Kalkofen, Offenberg, Setzberg, Trenning from Christoph Donabaum, Johann Donabaum, F. J. Gritsch, Franz Hitzberger, Piewald, and Schneeweis

 

The 2021 vintage in Austria has received much acclaim. In September, I was privileged to attend a series of tastings of the wine in Austria and I found the advance publicity largely deserved. We begin here with beautifully-crafted Rieslings from the Wachau. (Continue reading here.)

Prinz SALM (Nahe and Rheinhessen) Part III -- Current Release Fruity-Style Rieslings

 

(Continue reading here.)

Prinz SALM (Nahe and Rheinhessen) Part II: Current Release Riesling GG (Felseneck [Wallhausen], Johannisberg, Kirchberg, Scharlachberg)

 

(Continue reading here.)

Prinz SALM (Nahe and Rheinhessen) Part I -- Current Release Dry, Non-GG Rieslings and a Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder)

 

This estate holds vines in both the Nahe and the Rheinhessen areas, but the Rheinhessen vines are just over the boundary in Bingen, so that for all but the political boundary purposes, they are Nahe wines.


Production in the Nahe is small but there are many high-quality producers. The two best-known in recent decades have been Dönnhoff and more recently, Schäfer-Fröhlich, but there are a number of others that are worth seeking out, including the wines from Salm, at the northern end of the Nahe region. 


The estate dates to 1200, the oldest German estate still in private hands, and one of the oldest estates in operation anywhere. 


The estate was a founding member of the Nahe chapter of the prestigious VDP organization. Moreover, Prinz Michael Salm, former head of the estate, was for 17 years the president of the overall VDP. His son, Felix Salm, has in recent years taken over the estate and the wines, which were already excellent here, are now perhaps even better.


Beginning in 1988, the estate converted to organic agriculture, one of the early estates in Germany to do so. (Continue reading here.)

Jura Chardonnays Recently Tasted: Gréa, Pélican/d'Angerville, Pinte, Tissot

 

Recent vintages have been challenging in the region due to problems such as frost, hail, and scorching weather. Each wine has to be evaluated on its own, not by vintage. (Continue reading here.)

Current Release Champagnes from Bonnaire

 


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Bonnaire is located in the village of Cramant on the Côte de Blancs. Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, it has long been a favorite of mine. (Continue reading here.)


The Fabulous Champagnes of Pascal Agrapart


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The estate has long been one of my favorites. For many years, it was known as Agrapart; now the current principal, Pascal Agrapart, has added his first name to the estate, although not all labels may yet reflect that fact.


Seven wines are produced, of which I review four here. All wines are from estate grapes on the Côte des Blancs. (Continue reading here.) 

Still More Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted -- Reynaud, Cave de Tain, Vernay, Vindiou

 

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All wines are red except for the Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage Empreinte du Rhône. (Continue reading here.)


More Northern Rhône Reds Recently Tasted-- Grand Comtadine/Chéron-Misset, Alain Graillot, Jamet, Marsanne

 

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Of recent vintages, 2020 may be the most consistent, as these wines demonstrate. 




All wines below are red. (Continue reading here.)

Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted: Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph from Aléofane/Chave, Alexandre, Ferme des 7 Lunes, Fournalet


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Recent Northern Rhone vintages have been quite mixed. In 2019, especially, overripeness was frequently a problem, while in 2021 I have found wines that showed phenolic immaturity. Choose carefully.


All wines below are red. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Baden Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) GG Part II: Bassgeige Kähne, Schlossberg from Michel and Franz Keller

 

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Good Michel, poor Keller. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2019 Baden Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) GG Part I: Eichberg, Feuerberg, Henkberg, Schlossgarten Villinger from Bercher and Salwey

 


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More promising than the Weisser Burgunder from Baden. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Baden Weisser Burgunder Part II: Hinter Winkeln "Gras im Ofen", Weingarten "Wingerte", Winklerberg Pagode from Heger, Schlumberger-Bernhart, Stigler

 

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A slightly more satisfying group. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2019 Weisser Burgunder GG from Baden Part I: Feuerberg Haslen, Kirchberg, Steingrubenberg from Bercher and Salwey

 

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Here, too, a poor showing for Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here,)


2021 and 2020 Wûrttemberg Weisser Burgunder: Gips Marienglas, Hungerberg, and Schlossberg from Aldinger, Ellwanger, and Neipperg

 

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A small, but not very edifying, showing for Württemberg Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Weiss Burgunder GG from the Pfalz Part I -- Herrenberg, Kirschgarten, Langenmorgen, Mandelberg am Speyrer Weg from Bassermann-Jordan, Bergdolt/Sankt Lamprecht, Knipser, Kuhn, Pfeffingen

 


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Weiss Burgunder (also known as Weiß Burgunder, Weisserburgunder, Weißerburgunder, and Pinot Blanc) performs uniquely well in Germany, and especially in the Pfalz region, where at its best it can be racy and pure. (Continue reading here.)


2020 Franken Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc) Karthäuser and Stein-Berg from Juliusspital and Staatliche Hofkeller Würzburg

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Only two wines shown here at the Wiesbaden GG Preview, but they show that Pinot Blanc (Weisser Burgunder) need not be a neutral, boring wine. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Ahr Frühburgunder GG -- Herrenberg, Mönchberg, Sonnenberg from Burggarten and Deutzerhof

 

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Frühburgunder is an earlier-ripening version of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and quite similar in overall presentation. 


(Continue reading here.)

2020 Ahr Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Burggarten, Kirchtürmchen, Landskrone, Rosenthal, Schieferlay from Burggarten, Deutzerhof, Nelles

 


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I’m very sorry to say this, but some of the Ahr wines are just bad to my (Burgundy-trained Pinot Noir) palate, but others are clearly technically-flawed and should not have been allowed by the VDP to bear the GG designation or any designation related to VDP. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Ahr Spätburgunder GG Part I -- Alte Lay, Eck, Kräuterberg, Mönchberg Spätburgunder GG from Adenauer, Burggarten, Deutzerhof

 

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This is a region where I’ve rarely producers making wines that I could appreciate. That appears to be especially the case in 2020. Given the catastrophic losses of so many producers in 2021 as a result of the floods, I hesitated to post my notes on Ahr wines, but finally decided that if they were willing to label them as GG and show them, consumers were entitled to my views on the wines. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Rheingau Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Hassel, Reichestal, Berg Schlossberg from Kloster Eberbach, Kaufmann, and Künstler

 

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Alas, less promising wines here than with the Höllenbergs. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Rheingau Spätburgunder GG Part I -- Höllenberg from Allendorf, Kesseler, Kloster Eberbach, and Künstler

 

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Wines from this vineyard have a track record of long ageability. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Rheinhessen Spätburgunder Part II -- Heerkretz, Horn, Kreuz, Pares, from Kühling-Gillot, Neus, Wagner-Stempel

 


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Moving to the northern part of Rheinhessen, less prestigious for Pinot Noir than the Wonnegau in the south, but still producing wines of interest. (Continue reading here.)


der GG Part I -- Brunnenhäuschen, Frauenberg, Kirchenstück, Morstein from Battenfeld-Spanier, Gutzler, Keller

 

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Two winners and two losers. (Continue reading here.)

2020, 2019, 2018 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part IV -- Felsenberg, Im Grossen Garten, Kirschgarten, Mandelpfad, Saumagen, Steinbuckel from Knipser, Kuhn, and Rings

 

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Here we have Kinipser, one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir producers; Rings, who’s still a new kid on the block but rapidly demonstrating that he deserves to be in the top tier; and Philipp Kuhn, who may be just a little bit behind those two but also produces excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)


2020 and 2019 Pfalz Spätburgunder GG Part III -- Idig, Kalkberg, Kastanienbusch Köppel, Munzberg Schlangenpfiff, Rosenkranz - Zinkelberg from Christmann, Minkes, Munzberg/Kessler, Wehrheim

 

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Moving to the central part of the Pfalz, some producers whom I normally like were somewhat disappointing in their 2019 offerings. Perhaps the wines have begun to close? Or perhaps its the character of the vintage here. (Continue reading here.)

2020, 2018, and 2017 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part II -- Kalmit, Sonnenberg, Sonnenschein from Kranz, Rebholz, Siegrist, and Wehrheim

 

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There are some good wines in this set, but not at the overall level of the Schweigen wines or the wines from these producers that I have seen in certain other vintages. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part I -- Heydenreich, Kammerberg, KB,, Kostert, Sankt Paul, Sonnenberg KT, Sonnenberg RG from Becker, Bernhart, and Jülg

  

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Schweigen is on the border with Alsace and these producers have some vines in French territory that is allowed to be labelled as German wine. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Württemberg Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Forstberg, Gips Marienglas, Lämmler, Mönchberg Öde Halde from Aldinger, Beurer, Dautel, Heid, Schnaitmann

 

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Somehow, most of the producers here just don’t make Spätburgunder that speaks to me. Dautel is the major exception. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Württemberg Spätburgunder Part I -- Geissberg, Himmelreich, Ruthe, Schlossberg, Schupen from Dautel, Neipperg, Wachstetter, Weinsberg

 

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A mixed bag here. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Baden Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) GG Part III -- Bassgeige Steinreise, Eichberg, Kirchberg, and Henkenberg from Franz Keller and Salwey


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(Continue reading here.)



 


2020 Baden Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) GG Part II -- Alte Berg, Kirchgasse, Schlossberg, Sommerhalde from Huber and Wöhrle

 

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(Continue reading here.)





2020 and 2019 Baden Spätburgunder Part I: Bienenberg, Königsbacher, Löchle, Wildenstein from Burg Ravensburg, Heitlinger, and Huber

 

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In the wake of the tragically premature death of Bernhard Huber, his wife and son continue to maintain the estate as one of the two finest for Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) in Germany (along with Rudolf Fürst). (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Franken Riesling GG Part I -- Julius-Echter-Berg,Kammer, Stein-Berg from Bürgerspital, Juliusspital, Staatliche Hofkeller, Wirsching

 


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Moving to the last Riesling region, Franken, the excellence of the vintage continues. (Continue reading here.)