Comte Georges de VOGÜÉ (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

My review of the 2017 de Vogüé wines tasted a year earlier from barrel is here.

The village wine was bottled in January 2019, the others in late March and early April 2019. 

François Millet said that the key to 2017 is to control the yields. Chambolle-Musigny had very low yields in 2016 due to frost, and vines that have suffered from frost one year typically overproduce the following year. De Vogüé did a green harvest in 2017 to contain the yields; no saigné (bleeding of the vats). As marvelous as the 2018s are, the 2017s will give them a good run for the money.

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Domaine Comte Georges de VOGÜÉ (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of 2018 in the Côte d’ Or here.)

François Millet said that harvesting began on 30 August. Out of caution not to over extract, only the Bonnes-Mares received punch downs (pigeage), and yet these wines are notable for their dark opaque colors. Alcohols range from 13.5º to 14º. Yields were about 20% less than in 2017, roughly 30 hl/ha vs. 35 hl/ha. In order to delay malolactic fermentation, the cellars were air conditioned, but it was necessary to go down to 5º C (41º F) to accomplish the delay.

Millet says that 2018 is a vintage that is out of time, and as such it must not become a benchmark for judging other vintages.

This is one of the most memorable cellars that I visited while tasting 2018s.

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Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

Please see background on the harvest at Mortet here.

These are wines that Arnaud Mortet makes from vineyards that he farms. In some cases, they are the same appellations as Domaine Denis Mortet’s wines, but different plots within the appellations that he does not own. 

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Domaine Denis MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

Arnaud Mortet said that he began harvesting on 3 September and it went very fast. Alcohols did not exceed 13.6-13.7º. He performed a big green harvest, the largest since 1999, and would up with 45 hl/ha for the village wines, 40-45 hl/ha for the premier and grand cru wines. Whole clusters in some wines, not in others this vintage. Some wines finished malolactic fermentation in January and February, others were later at the usual time. Arnaud has shortened vinifications compared to the past.

The three relatively new grands crus, Echézeaux, Mazis-Chambertin, and Bonnes Mares, are included.

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Domaine DUJAC (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

My notes on 2017 Dujac wines tasted prior to bottling are here, here, and here.

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Domaine DUJAC (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Part III -- Whites Tasted from Tank

My introduction to the 2018 vintage at Dujac is here.

Some of the whites are acidified, but not the Monts Luisants, which despite having gone through malolactic fermentation has a pH below 3!

These wines are yet another example of the surprising quality of 2018 whites.

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Domaine DUJAC (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Part II: Red Premier and Grand Cru Wines Tasted from Barrel

My introduction to the 2018 vintage at Dujac is here.

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Domaine DUJAC and DUJAC Père & Fils (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Part I: Dujac Village Reds and Dujac P&F Reds

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

Jeremy Seysses said that the harvest began with the whites in Puligny on 27-28 August, and on 30 August he began to harvest the reds. On 12 September the last of the Fils & Père wines came in, finishing the harvest. There was some change from the usual order of harvesting; in particular, the village wines came in first because they suffered less water stress. Yields were generous, comparable to 1999. Alcohols are generally normal, with Gevrey-Chambertin Fils & Père wines and the Gruenchers being above 14º, then the estate Morey-St-Denis being 13.7º, and the rest 12.5-13.5º. Use of whole clusters was in the range of 85-90%, and there was less punching down (pigeage) than usual in order to avoid over-extraction. Malolactic fermentations started early and finished a little earlier than usual (which nevertheless is later than in the 1980s and 1990s, when Dujac was one of the estates I visited that typically had very early malos).

For those lucky enough to have access to Domaine Dujac wines, this was one of the most memorable estates that I visited last autumn -- buy whatever you can access and afford.

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Domaine Jean CHAUVENET (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

My notes on all of Chauvenet’s 2017s tasted from barrel in November 2017 are here.

These wines were bottled in February 2019. 

Christophe Drag nailed it in the 2017 vintage -- if you come across the wines, don’t miss them. 

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Domaine Jean CHAUVENET (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)

Christophe Drag said that he started harvesting on 8 September and until 12 September the sugars (and hence resulting alcohols) were correct; after that date, the sugars rose very fast, and so he sold off all that was harvested after the 12th. All grapes were destemmed. About 20% new oak in the village wines, 20-30% in the premier cru wines. Malolactic fermentations finished in June and July.

The vines here were affected by the first (15 July) of the three hails that hit Nuits-Saint-Georges in 2018, but the vines in the Rue de Chaux vineyard and all on the Côte de Vosne were spared; thus, it was Les Poulettes, Perrières, and Vaucrains that suffered from the hail, resulting in a loss of 1/3 of the crop in those vineyards.

This is an fine selection of wines, worthy of your consideration should you come across them.

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Domaine Ghislaine BARTHOD (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please read my general assessment of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

As I mentioned in my notes on Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils, son Clément worked with Ghislaine for the 2018 vintage and has taken over as of the 2019 vintage. 

Harvesting here began on 26 August. Yields were in the range of 30-35 hl/ha, about 25-30% less than in 2017. Malo-lactic fermentations finished in January and February.

As always, splendid wines here. The range of premiers crus has increased to eleven.

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Domaine Jacques-Frédéric MUGNIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle and also 2013 Musigny

My notes on all the 2017s tasted from barrel are here.

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Domaine Jacques-Frédéric MUGNIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

Frédéric Mugnier said that harvesting began with the Bonnes-Mares on 28 August -- the parcel had suffered from drought, receiving no rain from July until October. The harvesting for the other Chambolle vineyards began on 1 September, and the Nuits were harvested on 8 September. He said that quantities were good. Alcohols for the Chambolle wines were between 13º and 13.5º; for the Clos de la Maréchale (which had suffered from the hail over the summer, with half the crop lost in red, a little less in white), they are 14º to 14.5º. Some malo-lactic fermentations went quickly, others not.

He noted that over the last five years, acidities have been good despite high sugar levels (which correspond to high alcohols). This is the effect of global warming, and it will be necessary to rethink standard rules in dealing with this changed environment. 

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Domaine ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

Harvesting began on 4 September and lasted eight days. The wines are about half whole clusters. Very little triage was necessary. Quantities are good, similar to 2009. No pigeage (punching down) here, only remontage (pumping over) and a little délestage (rack and return).  Alcohols range from 13º to 13.5º. Malo-lactic fermentations went very quickly.

These are good wines for the vintage, but as noted below, some lack tension compared to more classic vintages.

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Domaine Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Part III: Beaujolais Crus Tasted from Barrel

Louis Boillot purchased properties in the Beaujolais some years back and from the beginning has been making some of the most delicious wines that I know from that region. I’ve had plenty of 2018 Beaujolais that I did not like, but that’s anything but the case here. 

Vinification is the same as at the Boillot estate for the Côte d’ Or wines.

The wines were tasted in November 2019 with plans to bottle them in May or June 2020.

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Domaine Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Part II: Côte de Nuits Tasted from Barrel

My introduction to the vintage at Boillot is here.

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Domaine Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Part I: Côte de Beaune Wines Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)

2018 is a transitional year at the estate as Clément Boillot, son of Louis Boillot and Ghislaine Barthod, fermented the wines here with his father (and likewise fermented at his mother’s estate with her). In 2019, Clément assumed primary responsibility, with the parents of course around to help or advise as needed.

Harvesting began in Volnay on 25 August (and on the Côte de Nuits on the following day). Because vineyards ripened at different times, it took three separate passes in the Côte de Beaune to harvest.

Malo-lactic fermentations finished in the winter. Alcohols range from 12.8º to 13.8 or 14º. There were one or two punchdowns (pigeages) per day.

Consistency and quality could be the motto here, and once again they show in 2018.

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Domaine ARNOUX-LACHAUX (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Part II: Premier Cru and Grand Cru Wines Tasted from Barrel

My introduction to the 2018 vintage at Arnoux-Lachaux is here.

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Domaine ARNOUX-LACHAUX -- 2018 Part I: Regional and Village Wines Tasted from Barrel, and a Pair of 2017s Tasted from Bottle

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Arnoux-Lachaux has become one of the most talked-about domaines in Burgundy with wines now fully in the new style and at greatly increased prices. Basically, for style, quality, and price think Domaine Leroy and Jean-Yves Bizot, two other domaines that coincidentally are also located in Vosne-Romanée.

Harvesting began on 3 September with the vineyards in Vosne-Romanée. Volumes were down 50%. Charles Lachaux described the quantities as ideal, giving concentrated wines. He has used more leaf cover, all whole clusters, and vinfied the wines without SO₂. The highest alcohol was 13.2º. Pigeages (punch downs) were limited to one to three times per day in order to avoid extracting too much. Malo-lactic fermentations went quickly -- many finished by November, and the latest finished in January.

New oak is 10-12% for the village wines, a maximum of 20% for the premier cru wines, and a maximum of 30% for the grand cru wines. That’s quite a change from the days of Charles’s father when substantially more new oak (up to 100% for top wines) was employed. 

Other changes include use of ultra-light tractors (20% of normal weight) in the vineyards to prevent soil compaction, and, importantly, working biodynamically. With respect to the biodynamic practices, this has been going on for some time and the estate is now certified, although Charles will not put the certification on the wine labels.

Two things to keep in mind about the wines being made here: 

To add to the great work Charles is doing, the estate has a magnificent set of vineyards, often with the best or among the best plots of a given appellation; and

2. Although these wines are stylistically different from the wines Charles’s father Pascal Lachaux made, those earlier wines were quite good within the context of their time.

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Domaine Bruno CLAVELIER (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Part II: Premier and Grand Cru Wines Tasted from Barrel Samples

Please see here for my introduction of the 2018 vintage at the estate.

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Domaine Bruno CLAVELIER (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Part I: Regional and Village Wines from Bottle and from Barrel Samples Bruno Clavelier said that he began

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Bruno Clavelier said that he began harvesting on 30 August with the Corton and finished on 5 September. He used a good portion of stems – 50-60% (he uses them to layer in a way that he calls sandwiching). Malo-lactic fermentations began in winter and were done by February. This is another estate where quantities in 2018 were less than in 2017; the premiers and grands crus came in at about 37-38 hl/ha. Alcohols are in the range of 13-13.5º, with the regional wines being 12-12.5º. 

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Domaine DIGIOIA-ROYER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 tasted from bottle, tank sample, and barrel

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Harvesting began on 6 September in Chambolle-Musigny and on the 12th in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits said Michel Digioia.

Quantities here are a little below those of 2017. Alcohols go from 13.2º to 14º, with 14.6º being an outlier highest. It was not easy to get all the alcoholic fermentations to finish. As usual here, all grapes were destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were very long; the first began in winter and they finished in June and July. 

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Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Part III: Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel; and Some 2017s Tasted from Bottle

Please see my introduction to the vintage at Grivot here.

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Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romané): 2018 Part II: Premier Cru Wines Tasted from Barrel

Please see my introduction to the vintage at Grivot here.

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Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) 2018 Tasted from Barrel Part I: Regional and Village Wines

(Please see here for my overview on 2018 in the Côte d’Or.)

Mathilde Grivot said that harvesting began on 11 September — in hot years, the Pinot Noir is constructed around the tannins (something I pointed out years ago when initially reporting on the 2003s). By harvesting this late there was the opportunity for rain several days before to fully allow for ripening of the tannins. She said that sugars did not change, but the acidities concentrated: pHs around 3.50, total acidity in the range of 3.1-3.3. 

As is customary at Grivot, grapes were entirely destemmed. Quantities are generous — only five barrels below the maximum for the cellar. Malo-lactic fermentations were quicker than usual (this cellar is usually quite slow): finishing in February to April for the Bourgogne and village wines, later for the 1er cru and grand cru wines.

The Bourgogne and the village wines have 20% new oak, the 1er crus 30-35%, and the grands crus 35-50%. 

Although it often is true in this vintage that for late picking, the wines are ripe and even overripe (and often less good the quality than wines from earlier in the vintage), these wines stand out as counter-examples to such a generalization.

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Domaine FOLLIN-ARBELET (Aloxe-Corton) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Tank and Some 2017s Tasted from Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)

Franck Follin-Arbelet said the he began harvesting on 29 August with the Charlemagne (the red Corton), then moved to the Aloxe-Clos du Chapître. Quantities are good but less than 2017. Alcohols generally are in the 13.5º-14º range with just a few above 14º. Grapes were entirely destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were very early, finishing in autumn and early winter. 

This is an excellent set of wines with freshness being a constant theme throughout the line.

Starting with the reds:

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BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2018 Part III: Whites Tasted from Tank and Barrel Samples

My introduction to the vintage at Bouchard P&F is here.

All whites have DIAM closures, which Bouchard has found to stop premature oxidation.

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BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2018 Part II: Côte de Nuits Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

My introduction to the vintage at Bouchard P&F is here.

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BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2018 Part I: Côte de Beaune Red Wines Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)

My congratulations to Frédéric Weber, technical director here. As I’ve previously noted, the 2018 vintage was quite complicated, in part because of the fact that the ripening of the grapes moved so quickly. But even with the large and extended set of vineyards that Bouchard has, the task was managed with great aplomb and the results are excellent; maybe the best set of red wines I've tasted here. 

Bouchard owns 130 ha, of which115 currently are in production (the rest is replanting). 30 ha are in biodynamic production — part close to Meursault, part close to Savigny (including Beaune Clos de la Mousse, Enfant Jésus, Corton-Charlemagne). Those locations permit close monitoring. Bouchard intends to continue expanding biodynamic production.

Philippe Prost, Weber’s predecessor, explained that 2018 was different from 2003 because they had 14 days for picking in 2018, whereas in 2003, they had to pick all at once: 2003 was drier winter and so there weren’t the water reserves to allow a smoother, more continued development. 2018 had less tannins than in 2003, but the index was still high. As in 2003, in 2018 Bouchard cut back in amount of new oak for the reds — average about 35%, maximum about 40-45%, and I think that made a big difference.

For the reds, there was a cool (not cold) maceration for 2-3 days before alcoholic fermentation. Care was taken not to do too much punching down, and there were more whole clusters than usual. Alcohols ranged from 13.5% to 14.5%.

The top reds are sealed with cork from Sardinia (high density) — and have a warranty against corkiness.

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