Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2017 Part IV: Côte de Nuits Red Wine Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel
Although Jadot generally does not use whole clusters, there are some in the Amoureuses and Bonnes-Mares (which I did not sample on this visit) and the Clos Saint-Denis and Musigny, on which I report below. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2017 Part II: Côte de Beaune Red Wines Tasted from Barrel
The reds, in general, have about 30% new oak barrels in 2017. As always for almost all Jadot wines, no whole clusters in these wines. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2017 Part I: White Wines Tasted from Barrel
Unusually for my visits here (and elsewhere in Burgundy), we start on this visit with the white wines.
Jadot now exploits (owns or farms) 130 ha in the Côte d’Or and purchases the equivalent of about 70 ha more of Côte d’Or grapes/musts/wine. In addition, there are wines from Chablis, the Côte Chalonnaise, the Mâconnais, and the Beaujolais. In short, Jadot is as close as one can come to an encyclopedia of Burgundy terroirs.
Malo-lactic fermentations began very early. As Jadot often does, it blocked the malos for some of the whites. New oak for the whites is around 25% in 2017; usually it has been around 30%.
I give the source of the wine (e.g., Domaine Gagey, Domaine Louis Jadot, etc.) because Jadot sometimes has more than a single cuvée from a given vineyard. Due to the large number of bottlings, I, of course, cannot taste every single wine that Jadot produces.
My overall view of white Burgundies in 2017 is that it is the finest vintage since 2014, which in turn is the finest young white Burgundy vintage I’ve encountered in more than thirty vintages of tasting from barrel. But at Jadot, the 2017 vintage may equal 2014. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine G./Christophe* ROUMIER (Chambolle-Muisgny) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel and Bottle
Christophe Roumier said that he began the harvest on 8 September. Yields were normal; he did a green harvest in Les Cras and Bonnes-Mars, but not in the village Chambolle, Amoureuses, or Musigny.
There were no whole clusters in the Bourgogne, the “normal" amount in the others, about half, except for the Musigny, which is 80% whole clusters.
Christophe said that there was a little less malic acidity than usual and that pHs were a little higher than usual. Malolactic fermentations began in May and finished in June and July.
He characterized the vintage as like 2014, but with a bit less fruit and more minerality and seriousness. He said that it was an easy year to do.
These wines were racked just two weeks prior to my tasting them. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine du Comte LIGER-BELAIR (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 21 April 2018.)
Harvesting began on 24 September, said Louis-Michel Liger-Belair. Overall losses were about 35% of a full crop. These losses included 99% of the Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes white and 85% of the red from that vineyard, 35% of Echézeaux, 25% of Suchots, and 40% for vines at the bottom of Vosne-Romanée.
Malolactic fermentations were late here.
As in other years, quality is high across the board at this biodynamic estate. (Continue reading here.)
Robert CHEVILLON (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Bertrand Chevillon said that the harvest here began on 5 September. Yields were 37-40 hl/ha. Malic acidities were normal and the malo-lactic fermentations finished in spring 2018. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine DIGIOIA-ROYER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016s Tasted from Bottle and Cask
(Originally published 23 April 2018.)
Michel Digioia said that for the whole domaine, his production was only 40% of a full vintage. Chambolle, of course, was very badly hit, and no wine was produced from Savigny-les-Beaune.
He began harvesting on 25 September, and the Hautes Côtes de Nuits was harvested on 30 September. Malolactic fermentations were a little later than usual here — the Chambolles finished in April and May, the Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits in July. As usual, grapes were entirely destemmed.
One definitely feels the effect of the frost in the concentration of these wines. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine de COURCEL (Pommard) -- 2016 Tasted from Cask Sample
(Originally published 28 April 2018.)
Yves Confuron, of Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot, has also long been responsible for this great estate. The wines are superb, but alas, once again we have a year of minuscule yields.
As is standard, the harvest is very late and the grapes are not destemmed. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine CONFURON-COTÉTIDOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 25 April 2018.)
Yves Confuron said that harvesting began on 5 October and he had no problem with the rains that came some days later (presumably all the grapes were in — the small yields made for very rapid harvesting). Overall yield for the estate in 2016 was but 11 hl/ha. As always, the grapes were vinified without destemming.
Year after year, this estate produces, at all appellation levels, some of the most compelling wines in Burgundy to my taste. The village wines are at premier cru level, the premiers crus at grand cru level, and the grands crus at the top of their respective appellations.
The wines may not be as easy to understand as those from other estates and may need more time than many, but the quality here is magnificent. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Bruno CLAVELIER (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottles and Cask Samples
Bruno Clavelier said that he began the harvest on 5 September with his Corton, and he completed the harvest on 12 September. He characterized the malic acidities as low but correct. Volume was a little more in 2017 than 2018 because hail damage affect some of the vineyards in the latter vintage. In both years, he did some green harvesting to limit yields.
He used a large portion of of stems in 2017, about 50%. Malo-lactic fermentations were early for these wines, beginning in December and January, and finishing by February and March.
Clavelier has organic essentially always and has been biodynamic for about two decades. Simply put, this is a most dependable estate for great wines at every level. (Continue reading here.)
CHANSON (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle Part II: White Wines
This selection of whites is good, but not as impressive as the selection of reds I previously reviewed.
The Savigny-Hauts Marconnets, Beaune-Clos des Mouches, and Corton-Vergennes are estate wines, the Viré-Clessé and Chablis are négociant wines. (Continue reading here.)
CHANSON (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle: Part I: Red Wines
(Originally published 30 April 2018.)
In the latter part of the twentieth century, Chanson, a Beaune négociant dating to 1750, was known for tannic, old-style (not necessarily in the best sense of the term) wines.
In 1999, the Bollinger Champagne house acquired Chanson, including its vineyards. Following a labelling scandal shortly after the sale, Gilles de Courcel was hired to head up operations, and then Jean-Pierre Confuron was handed control over vineyard and winemaking operations. Confuron is the brother of Yves Confuron of Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot in Vosne-Romanée and of de Courcel’s eponymous estate in Pommard. Working with the same methods as the home estate in Vosne, such as late harvesting and use of all whole clusters. Horses are used to plough the vineyards, which are organically cultivated.
New oak is 30% for the wines, tending to François Frères for reds and Damy for whites.
Chanson now owns 45 ha, all on the Côte de Beaune, which in a normal year supplies about a quarter of the total production (which extends from Chablis down to the Beaujolais).
All of the wines below are estate wines except for the Gevrey-Chambertin and the Corton.
As this sampling of the reds (and the sampling of the whites to follow) shows, this is a producer worthy of your serious attention. (Continue reading here.)
2016 Beaujolais recently tasted: Berthier, Breton, Chanrion/Vôute des Crozes, Chignard, Diochon/Paternotre, Drouhin/Hospices de Belleville
(Originally published 4 May 2018.)
This is a classic-styled vintage with very good wines available. Looking down the road, there isn't going to be very much available from 2017 (a statement that applies to all of France, save Burgundy), so you may want to consider stocking up. (Continue reading here.)
More Wines from the Beaujolais and Southern Burgundy Recently Tasted: Dupré, Foillard, Château de Poncié, Robert-Denogent, La Soeur Cadette/Valentin Montanet, Jean-Paul Thévenet, Thévent & Fils, Thillardon, Château du Thivin/Geoffray, Tripoz
(Originally published 5 May 2018.)
More interesting wines from the region, mostly from the 2016 vintage. (Continue reading here.)
RIDGE VINEYARDS -- Spring 2018 National Releases
(Originally published 6 May 2018.)
These are the spring 2018 national releases from Ridge. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine HUDELOT-NOËLLAT (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Cask and Bottle
Charles van Canneyt said that he harvest the white (yes, the first Domaine white to be made) on 31 August and began the reds on 7 September. He characterized the yields as “correct" and even “generous" where the vines had been affected by frost in 2016.
There was no whole cluster fermentation. Malic acidities were not real low and malo-lactic fermentations were late. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Albert MOROT (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle
(Originally published 8 May 2018.)
When one thinks of Beaune, one thinks first of the négociants who own large portions of the vineyards. Then there are “outsiders" from other villages, such as Lafarge and de Montille in Volnay, who make Beaune wines that one frequently finds on good Burgundy lists. But there are good vignerons in Beaune producing wine, and none better that I know than Albert Morot.
When one thinks of Beaune, one thinks first of the négociants who own large portions of the vineyards. Then there are “outsiders" from other villages, such as Lafarge and de Montille in Volnay, who make Beaune wines that one frequently finds on good Burgundy lists. But there are good vignerons in Beaune producing wine, and none better that I know than Albert Morot.
As with all producers in Beaune and Savigny, Morot was badly affected by the frost in late April. No wine was produced from Grèves, Marconnets, Dessus des Marconnets, or the white Savigny vineyard. Overall, the estate produced 23 hl/ha.
Harvesting began on 21 September. All grapes were destemmed in 2016. About 30% new oak is used, a combination of Chassin Père & Fils and François Frères, and the toast is medium.
Morot bottled these wines in November 2017, and they appear to be very good for early and medium-term drinking. (Continue reading here.)
Olivier LEFLAIVE (Puligny-Montrachet) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle
(Originally published 11 May 2018.)
Over the years, I’ve had very little wine from this Leflaive, the reason being that I never found anything interesting that made me want to try more. A couple of years ago that began to change, and others also seemed to notice something going on here. Curiously, this occurred despite the fact that Frank Grux, who has been in charge of making the wines since 1988, still remains at the head of winemaking.
Over the years, I’ve had very little wine from this Leflaive, the reason being that I never found anything interesting that made me want to try more. A couple of years ago that began to change, and others also seemed to notice something going on here. Curiously, this occurred despite the fact that Frank Grux, who has been in charge of making the wines since 1988, still remains at the head of winemaking.
When I inquired of the domaine, I was told that the grapes are now harvested a bit earlier than before, less new oak is used, and there is less bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) than before. Whether that’s the full story or if there’s more to be told, these wines show that there are wines worthy of interest now.(Continue reading here.)
Domaine Réyane et Pascal BOULEY/Pascal BOULEY/Pierrick BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2017 Tasted from Cask and Tank Samples
These wines are sold under slightly different labels in various markets, but the wines are all the same.
Pierrick Bouley said that he harvested the Volnay-Ronceret vineyard on 28 August, and then paused, with the rest of the harvested continuing from 2 to 9 September. Yields were 42 hl/ha, modest considering that vines affected by frost, as almost all of Bouley’s were in 2016, usually produce abundantly. In 2018, Bouley, as with the majority producers I visited, had higher yields, 45 hl/ha for the whole estate.
All grapes were destemmed. There was no chaptalization, and alcohols for the premiers crus are 12.5-13.5º. Other than the village Monthélie, which saw no new wood, new oak is 10-25% on these wines. Malic acidities here were relatively low, and the malo-lactic fermentations went quickly. No SO2 was added until racking.
The wines here are very good and worthy of your interest, especially as this estate is still not fully recognized for the quality of the wines produced. (Continue reading here.)
Recently Tasted Red Wines from Southwest France: Bellevue la Forêt/Grant, Cauvin/La Colombière, Clos la Coutale/Bernède, Da Ros, La Grave/Bernède
(Originally published 13 May 2018.)
Particularly with the shortage of crop in many parts of Europe, wine prices are rising quite rapidly. Some of the best values for your money in France remain in the Southwest. (Continue reading here.)
Recently Tasted Red Wines from Southwest France: Ilbert/Combel-la-Serre, Jouves, Larou/Salmona, Peyros, Lesgourgues, Plageols, Le Roc
(Originally published 14 May 2018.)
Plenty of very good values to be had here. (Continue reading here.)
Plenty of very good values to be had here. (Continue reading here.)
Jura Wines Recently Tasted: Aigle à Deux Têtes/Le Roy. Arnoux/Cellier des Tierceleines, Baud, Borde/Mareschal, Champ Divin/Closset, Clavelin
(Originally published 19 May 2018.)
Despite the small quantity of wine made in the Jura, prices remain, for the most part, attractive. With the disastrously small vintage in 2017, that could easily change, though, at least until there is another vintage (hopefully 2018) to replenish the stocks.
If you don’t already know the Jura wines with their firm acidities and original expression of grapes well-known elsewhere (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) and grapes associated almost exclusively with the Jura (Savagnin, Trousseau, and Poulsard), I encourage your making the effort. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine de la POUSSE D'OR (Volnay) -- 2017 Part II: Côte de Beaune Wines Tasted from Tank Samples
My comments on the vintage conditions and raising of the wines is here, where I reviewed the Côte de Nuits wines.
After tasting the Côte de Nuits, we moved on the Côte de Beaune wines. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine de la POUSSE D'OR (Volnay) -- 2017 Part I: Côte de Nuits Wines Tasted from Tank Samples
Harvesting at the estate began on 5 September on the Côte de Beaune and then moved to the Côte de Nuits. Yields were about 35 hl/ha for the premiers crus and 28hl/ha for the grands crus. Since most of the vineyards on both Côtes suffered heavily from the frost in 2016, one would have expected larger yields, but very short pruning kept the 2017 yields admirably modest. As is normal here, all grapes were destemmed.
Malic acidities were “a little low, but not notably so,” and malo-lactic fermentations while quick for the Côte de Beaune wines, were slower for these from the Côte de Nuits.
Alcohols for all the wines are around 13º.
As has become normal here, this is an outstanding set of wines. (Continue reading here.)
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