(Originally published 19 May 2018.)
FRUITIÈRE VINICOLE D’ARBOIS
FRUITIÈRE VINICOLE D’ARBOIS
2016 Arbois Chardonnay
The Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois is the oldest wine cooperative in France, dating to 1906. In the right years, it can produce exciting wines at very interesting prices. This vintage, however, was not one of those. The wine is an adequate glass of Chardonnay from the Jura with some firmness, stoniness, and clarity, but ot much in the way of personality. 12.5% stated alcohol. 85/C
Domaine de MONTBOURGEAU/Nicole DERIAUX
2014 L’Étoile En Banode
This wine is a field blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin in roughly equal portions on limestone/marl soils. The wine spends three years in a combination of large oak and barriques. There is some oxidative aspect, presumably from the long time spent in cask, but this wine is much less oxidative than your typical vin de voile. The wine has great salinity and a good firmness from its acidity; there is a somewhat lemony fruit. It makes a great match for poultry and other white meats, fish, and cheese. 13% stated alcohol. 91/A
Domaine OVERNOY
Note: this estate is in Orbagna and is not to be confused with the cult Pierre Overnoy (who has now retired and sold his estate) in Pupillin.
2015 Côtes-du-Jura Chardonnay cuvée Charmille
This is good, crisp, pure, light, somewhat nervy and wiry Chardonnay typical of the Jura. The acidity is sufficient, and this makes a good bottle for drinking over the next several years. 14.5% stated alcohol (although it doesn’t taste like it). Lot L 16.4. 90/A-
Domaine PIGNIER
Although not particularly well-known, Pignier is one of the greatest, if not the greatest, producers in the Jura. The wines have a brilliant clarity and precision.
Certified organic and biodynamic.
2016 Côtes-du-Jura À la Percenette
This wine is from the Chardonnay variant called Melon à queue rouge, planted as a massale selection. There’s a tiny bit of sucrosity in this wine, giving a sensation of sweetness, but it in fact finishes completely dry. The wine is light smooth, and refined with clear fruit that verges on, but falls just short of, tropical, instead falling back to subtle lemon. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L10516. 91/A
2014 Côtes du Jura Poulsard En Chôné
This wine is cherry-red and cloudy in appearance. The mouth is light, the acidity slightly sharp, and the fruit is a combination of strawberry and wild strawberry. Those not used to Poulsard may be perplexed by the wine, but it goes well with cheeses and certain vegetable dishes (e.g., Brussels Sprouts with shallots). Certified organic and biodynamic. 10.5% stated alcohol. 90/A