My comments on the vintage conditions and raising of the wines is here, where I reviewed the Côte de Nuits wines.
After tasting the Côte de Nuits, we moved on the Côte de Beaune wines.
2017 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Tavannes
This wine is smooth with red fruits, especially cherry, and some minerality. It is light in weight. (89-91)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or
The Volnay-Clos de la Bousse d’Or shows more weight and is quite smooth on the palate. The wine is light on the tongue and long in the mouth with red fruits and minerality. (91-94)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos d’Audignac
The Volnay-Clos d’Audignac shows floral aromas. The mouth is smooth and medium-weight with good length, although perhaps not quite the precision of the Clos de la Bousse d’Or. (91-94)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets En Caillerets
The “En Caillerets” has dark fruits, lightness, finesse, length, and minerality. This wine is almost ineffably elegant, as it should be from this terroir. (93-95)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrées
Pousse d’Or’s “Clos des 60 Ouvrées” has floral aromas. The wine is extremely light on the tongue with even more finesse than the En Caillerets, and it has smoothness on the palate. (93-96)
2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollières
The Pommard-Jarollières features crushed dark berry fruit with harder tannins and more concentration than the Volnays, as one would expect. the wine has good depth — it is Pommard, but with the finesse that comes from the vintage. (92-95)
2017 Corton-Bressandes
A significant jump in quality to potential greatness, the Corton-Bressandes has the truffly nose typical of this vineyard. The mouth shows dark fruits and is dense with concentration. The wine is powerful and long — a real Corton. (95-97)
2017 Corton-Clos du Roi
The Corton-Clos du Roi has redder fruits than the Bressandes. There’s finesse here, good length, and less power than the Bressandes. (93-95)
2017 is the third consecutive vintage that the estate has experimented with amphorae. In 2017, the wines were only raised in amphorae; in 2016 some, but not all, of the wines raised in amphorae were also vinifired in them; and in 2015, the wines were both vinified and raised in amphorae. At this early stage, I can’t say I have a consistent preference for the amphorae or non-amphorae wines.
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or Amphorae
This wine is more closed in the nose than the regular bottling and is truffly. The mouth has dark fruits, minerality, a spicy finish, and more power than the regular bottling. (93-95)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets En Caillerets Amphorae
The “En Caillerets” Amphorae has floral and dark fruit aromas, especially blackberries. The mouth shows dark fruits, again with blackberries most prominent, and it is very concentrated. There is finesse here but it is less evident than in the regular cuvée and the tannins here are more prominent. (92-94)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrées Amphorae
The “Clos des 60 Ouvrées” Amphorae shows dark fruits, concentration, depth, and length, but less finesse. (92-95)
In white, Pousse d’Or now has two magnificent vineyards, having added Chevalier-Montrachet through a rental agreement with Olivier Leflaive.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret
The Puligny-Cailleret shows why the vineyard often is considered the white equivalent of Chambolle-Amoureuses, that is a grand cru in all senses except official classification. The wine is beautiful in the nose with purity, minerality, and chalky Chevalier-Montrachet-like aromaas (Le Cailleret abuts Chevalier-Montrachet). The mouth shows finesse, purity, minerality, lightness, and intensity. (95-97)
2017 Chevalier-Montrachet
The Chevalier-Montrachet has more weight than the Cailleret, but not quite as much precision or finesse. Still, it is an outstanding wine. (93-96)