Despite the small quantity of wine made in the Jura, prices remain, for the most part, attractive. With the disastrously small vintage in 2017, that could easily change, though, at least until there is another vintage (hopefully 2018) to replenish the stocks.
If you don’t already know the Jura wines with their firm acidities and original expression of grapes well-known elsewhere (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) and grapes associated almost exclusively with the Jura (Savagnin, Trousseau, and Poulsard), I encourage your making the effort.
Domaine de l’AIGLE À DEUX TÊTES/Henri LE ROY
2015 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Lices en Peria
This wine has a whiff of vanilla in the nose. The mouth is light in weigh but shows some richness to go with Meyer lemon and vanilla flavors as well as Jura minerality. Acidity is moderate, yielding a silky texture. It’s a wine I’d drink over the next 2-5 years. Lot LLP 15. 13.7% stated alcohol. 90/A-
Jérome ARNOUX/Le CELLIER DES TIERCELINES
2015 Arbois Chardonnay Chantemerle
Arnoux has no formal training, learning by apprenticeship, primarily under Stéphane Tissot. The wine is medium-weight with firmness and some power and stony Chardonnay fruit of a type that seems to be particular only to the Jura. The wine is outstanding and can be drunk now and should last at least some years. Lot L CM15. 13% Stated alcohol. 91/A
BAUD Père & Fils
2014 L’Étoile Chardonnay
This is a pleasant wine with a light body and fine, lemony, stony Chardonnay fruit, but it lacks the distinctiveness or personality of a still better wine. I’d drink over the next 3-5 years on its own or with fish, fowl, or cheese. Lot LET141. 87/B
2013 Côtes-du-Jura Rouge Ancestral
This wine is a blend of 70% Trousseau and 30% Pinot Noir. It has the high spiciness of Trousseau and red fruits that come from both grapes. The wine is medium-weight with refreshing acidity. I’d serve it at cellar temperature, like a Beaujolais or red Burgundy. Ideally, give it a few years in the cellar or decant an hour or so before serving. Lot L RA131. 12.5% stated alcohol. 86/B
Domaine de la BORDE/Julien MARESCHAL
2015 Arbois-Pupillin Chardonnay Terre du Lilas
I’ve liked the few previous wines I’ve had from this producer, but here, a bit of residual sugar on the finish (something I’m quite sensitive to) is bothersome. Otherwise, the wine is attractive for its creamy, medium-weight body and kiwi aromas and flavors. Lot LLIA15. 13% stated alcohol. 86/B-
CHAMP DIVIN/Fabrice et Valérie CLOSSET
This is one of the young Jura estates to watch. Certified organic and biodynamic.
2015 Crémant du Jura zéro dosage
For the moment, this wine is in the shadow of the superlative 2014 versions. There’s plenty of chalkiness on the nose and palate, but the mouth is richer and heavier than the 2014. Perhaps with further bottle aging, this wine will come into better focus. Even if not, it’s not a bad wine, just a little bit anonymous compared to the previous version. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LCB150216. 87(+)/B+
2016 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Cuvée Chanson
This wine, made in the fresh style, has the very stony aromas and flavors that seem to be unique to Jura Chardonnay, coming from the marl soils. The wine is medium-weight but quite dense in texture, and it shows very good acidity and penetration. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot CH16407. 92/A
2016 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir
This wine is light, elegant, and pure with strawberry and red cherry fruit. It lacks, however, the complexity of a still finer wine. 12% stated alcohol. Lot LP1160417. 87/B
Domaine CLAVELIN/Hubert CLAVELIN
2015 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Les Charmes
This producer previously was unknown to me. I purchased the bottle in a Paris grocery store that often has interesting wines, and the price was cheap (a little above 7€, or $8.50). There’s a bit of yeastiness in the nose and on the palate with nice grip, a medium-light body, good depth, and some stoniness. It’s a good wine for aperitifs and for seafood and white meats. Drink over the next few years. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LCHAVB15. 87/B