Domaine du Comte LIGER-BELAIR (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel

Louis-Michel Liger-Belair said that there were two keys to the harvest — yields and bottling while the wines are still fresh. This was the first full harvest at the estate since 2009. In 2016, yields had been 24 hl/h; in 2017 they were 34 hl/ha; in 2018, they were less than 2017.

Harvesting began on 9 September. Whole clusters were used for some wines, not for others. Malolactic fermentations were variable, one being completed before winter, others were after winter.

As usual, this biodynamic estate has very good wines across the board, but beginning with the Vosne-Brulées, the wines are especially outstanding. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Ghislaine BARTHOD (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel

I get e-mails from people asking me for advance disclosures of my reviews on Ghislaine Barthod’s wines. All I can say as that this is one estate where the wines are always good and you can buy blind without concern.

In 2017, there are two new premier cru bottlings, Noirots and Sentiers. Both are from vines that are 65-70 years old and available only in tiny quantities. Previously, the grapes had gone into the village Chambolle-Musigny bottling.

After excellent regional and village wines, one then works one’s way through eleven premiers crus Chambolle-Musignys, starting at very good premier cru quality and gradually passing to grand cru quality. Not a step has been missed. (Continue reading here.)

Louis BOILLOT et Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Part II: Côte de Nuits Tasted from Barrel

Boillot is an excellent and very consistent producer who gets nowhere near the recognition that he deserves. As with his Côte de Beaune 2017s, the quality of each of these wines is substantially above what the appellation would lead one to expect. Don’t miss them, if you get the chance. (Continue reading here.)

Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- Part I: Côte de Beaune Tasted from Barrel

Louis Boillot said that his 2017 vintage was even more abundant than 2018.

He began the harvest in the Côte d’Or twice. On 28 August, he harvested the Caillerets and Les Angles in Volnay. He then went to the Beaujolais to harvest his Moulin-à-Vent, returning to the Côte d’Or on 2 September.

As always, the grapes were entirely de-stemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were very early, some even finishing in October due of the warm cellars and the very low amounts of malic acid in the grape juice.

(Continue reading here.)

Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted (Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph): Balthazar, Y. Chave, Farge, Gripa, Perret, Reynaud, Tunnel/Robert

All wines below are red unless otherwise specified. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2017 Part IV: Whites Tasted from Bottle and from Cask Sample

The outstanding quality of 2017 whites is on full display here. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2017 Part III -- Côte de Nuits Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel Samples

Harvesting on the Côte de Nuits began 7 September. See here for other details about vintage conditions. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2017 Part II: Côte de Nuits Village and Premier Cru Reds Tasted from Cask Samples

Harvesting on the Côte de Nuits began 7 September. See here for other details about vintage conditions. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2017 Part I: Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Bottle and Barrel/Cask Sample

Harvesting began on the Côte de Beaune on 1 September, and on the Côte Chalonnaise on 4 September. There were some problems with worms eating buds, but still the quantities produced were good, so the worms may have helped to keep quantities from being overly abundant.

Drouhin used more whole clusters than usual for the top wines; Drouhin’s usage is a sandwich method where the clusters are on top and bottom, with destemmed grapes between. Bruno Clavelier does something similar.

Malolactic fermentations began in the winter and sometimes went quite rapidly. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine DUBLÈRE (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2017 Part II: Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank

As mentioned in the previous review, harvesting began on 2 September. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine DUBLÈRE (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2017 Part I: Reds Tasted from Barrel

Blair Pethel, an American with passion for Burgundy, began producing wine with the 2004 vintage, and in spring 2019 he announced that he had sold his domaine. I’ve found the wines to be consistently excellent and wish Blair the best for whatever he goes on to. I’ll miss the visits with Blair and his interpretations of future vintages.

Harvesting began on 2 September. As usual, all grapes were destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations went quickly. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel and Tank

Thomas Bouley said that he harvested the Caillerets on 4 September with a small group, and then the full team began in the other vineyards on the following day, just like in 2015. Yields overall were 45 hl/ha. As usual, malo-lactic fermentations were quick because he adds very little SO₂. 

Yet again, the wines here prove that they belong in the top division. (Continue reading here.)

Maison DEux MONTILLE and Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2017 Whites Tasted from Bottle and Barrel and Tank Samples

Although 2017 is generally more favorable for white wines than for reds, these wines, while very good, do not stand out to the same extent that the previously-reviewed de Montille reds do. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2017 Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

Technical director Brian Sieve said that people who had balance in 2017 didn’t have hard frost in 2016; those with hard frost, had copious quantities. The reds here weren’t hit super hard in 2016. Is that a partial explanation for the brilliant quality of these wines? 

Malo-lactic fermentations finished in July and August. (Continue tasting here.)

Domaine Jacques PRIEUR (Meursault) -- 2017 Part II: Whites Tasted from Barrel Samples

See here for background on the vintage at Prieur. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jacques PRIEUR (Meursault) -- 2017 Part I: Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

Harvesting began, I was told, on 19 August and was finished in eight days. This is radically early compared to what I heard elsewhere, but when I questioned it, the date was confirmed. Take it with a grain of salt, but the wines are quite good. 

Yields were characterized as "generous." Malo-lactic fermentations were  “classic" — beginning in spring, the last ones finishing in July. 

Alcohols are 12.5-13%, and there was no chaptalization.

These are not in the relaxed style of most wines I’ve tasted from the vintage — there’s more freshness and energy here, so maybe there is something to the radically-early harvest date: the wines taste as though they are from a much cooler, more classic vintage. Nevertheless, there was no immaturity of tannins.

 In 2018 Prieur recovered vines that had been leased out in Santenay, Chassagne, and Pommard, and those wines will be added to the already spectacular collection of vineyards here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jean-Marc et Hugues PAVELOT/Bourgogne Hugues PAVELOT (Savigny-les-Beaune) 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples and Tank Samples

Hugues Pavelot said that he began harvest with the whites on 2-3 September. He characterized the yields as very good, but not over the limits. The resulting wines have good acidities. As usual here, all grapes were destemmed.  Some malo-lactic fermentations finished by the end of December, others took a little longer.

Wines from purchased grapes (for red) and musts (for white) are bottled under the Bourgogne Hugues Pavelot label and marked below with an asterisk (*). (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Anne GROS (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Tank

Harvesting began in 7 September and was able to go for ten days before there was any rain. Yields were “good.” As is customary here, all grapes were destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were early, having finished by January. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET (Gevrey-Chabertin) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel

Harvesting generally began on 7 September (the Combottes, always early to ripen here, came in on 5 September). Yields were “generous” — comparable to those of 2009. There was some green harvesting over the summer. 

With very little malic acidity — characteristic for the vintage — malos went very quickly. The village Gevrey, the premier cru Gevreys, and the grands crus have about 60% whole cluster fruit. There was very little chaptalization in this vintage.  (Continue reading here.)