All wines below are red unless otherwise specified.
Franck BALTHAZAR Selections
The Balthazar family has long owned vines in Cornas and made wine from them; additionally, Balthazar was fortunate enough to purchase some of the vines of the legendary Noël Verset. Recently, Franck, the current generation’s producer, has begun bottling under a négociant label, which doesn’t distinguish wines from purchased grapes (or, less likely, purchased wine) from wine from the family’s estate.
2017 Vin de Pays
This wine is from purchased grapes near Séguret, about 55 miles/80 km south of Cornas. 60% Syrah, 40% Grenache, all grapes destemmed. Normally, I’m not a fan of Syrah-Grenache blends made by producers from the Northern Rhône, but this one is different — lighter in the mouth and showing better definition and purity than most for its dark and red plum and blueberry fruit. Great for drinking now and over the next few years at cellar temperature or slightly above. Lot L01/2017. 12.5% stated alcohol. 89/A
2017 Cornas Sans Soufre Ajouté
These days, I normally avoid wines that have no added sulfur unless I have confidence in the producer. Balthazar is one in whom I have such confidence. This wine is dense, concentrated, and pure with violets and dark fruit, plus a fair amount of tannin, plus the elegance that Balthazar brings to Cornas. The lack of added sulfur heightens all the aspects. A wonderful wine, but due to the lack of sulfur, be sure any bottle you are considering has been well-handled. I’d drink this wine over the next five years or so. The wine is from young vines, about eleven years-old. Lot LSSA 2017/01. 13.5% stated alcohol. 91/A-
2017 Cornas Chaillot
The Chaillot is from the lieu-dit of that name and is Balthazar’s old vine cuvée. The wine is rich, dense, and concentrated with classic Cornas smoky dark fruits and old vine texture, and it also shows the relative finesse that Balthazar brings to his wines. Acidity seems moderate, but overall balance is here. You can drink the wine now (best with a decant a bit ahead of serving), but in 8-10 years it should be even better. Lot LCHA 2017/02. 13.5% stated alcohol. 93+/A
Yann CHAVE
2017 Crozes-Hermitage Le Rouvre
For many years in the 1990s and early 2000s, I annually would taste in Yann Chave’s cellars. I found him likable and his vineyards promising sources. Unfortunately, I always found his wines to be marred by new and recent oak barrels, perhaps reflecting his self-confessed admiration for Australian wines. Every several years, I pick up a bottle to try in hopes that he’s changed his style. Invariably, I’m disappointed. This is textbook international-style Syrah with vanillins, rounded tannins, and nothing to point to terroir. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 110. 85/D
Guy FARGE
2016 Saint-Joseph Terroir de Granit
This wine has richness of texture to go with ripe, broad, and deep dark plum fruits. The wine can be enjoyed already for its fruit, but there’s enough tannin here to support 15-20 years in the cellar. 13% stated alcohol. 90/A-
Bernard GRIPA
2017 Saint-Joseph white
Honey and yellow flowers in the nose. A mouth that is light on the palate but rich with yellow fruits and minerality. It is classic white St-Joseph. The wine drinks well now and should take 5-10 years’ of aging without a problem, maybe more. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne, half fermented in tank, half in wood. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L217. 92/A
2017 Saint-Joseph
This wine is classic young St-Joseph with dark fruits, some floral notes (especially violets), good density, concentration and power, and some tannins that will make this wine a good cellar candidate. Gripa, of course is one of the classic and best St-Joseph producers with vines in Mauves, the original part of the appellation. Lot L217. 13.5% stated alcohol. 91+/A
André PERRET
2017 Saint-Joseph
Perret is best known for Condrieu and although there is a more expensive Saint-Jospeh cuvée, year-in and year-out, this is my favorite Perret wine and one of the best red Saint-Jo’s out there. Typical of Saint-Joseph from the northern part of the appellation (i.e., near Côte-Rôtie), the wine is spicy and perfumed with dark plum and berry fruit. The body is medium-weight and quite smooth. I’m sure this wine will have no problem aging ten years or more, but it is so delicious now, why wait? Lot LSJR17. 13.5% stated alcohol. 92/A
David REYNAUD
2016 Saint-Joseph 350 m Haut Plateau de Gneiss
This is a négociant wine from Reynaud. Moreover, it is from the plateau that is above the slopes, which is where one can produce the best Saint-Joseph. Considering those handicaps, it is quite a successful wine, showing real Saint-Joseph stony texture to go with deep dark plum fruit and violets. The wine can be drunk now, but has the balance to go 8-10+ years. Certified organic. Lot L 171020. 88/B
Domaine du TUNNEL/Stéphane ROBERT
2017 Cornas
This is the less expensive of two Cornas cuvées that Robert makes. The vines are on granitic soils on steep slopes. It is a rich, broad wine with intense blue fruits and plenty of depth and length. The wine is well-balanced, but not one to serve with subtle food — game or a side of beef would seem to be good matches. The tannins are round enough to permit current drinking (I’d decant an hour or two first), but it should easily also be able to take 12-15 years of aging. It is a successful example of Cornas that has a modern-bent. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot 1118. 92/A