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In 1987, Michel Lafarge was one of the first vignerons I met on my initial trip to Burgundy for the purpose of writing about wine. I last saw him as I had every vintage since then, while visiting the estate in 2019, the year prior to his death at age 91. He is gone, but this remains one of the iconic estates of Burgundy.
Michel’s son Frédéric, who each year resembles is father more and more, greeted us, as he has for many years, and we tasted a handful of 2022s before moving on. I expect to return in the fall to taste through the whole line.
Malolactic fermentations for the whites had not finished when I tasted in early June, but for the reds, they finished in March. Yields were "normal."
2022 Meursault vendange sélectionnée
The malo was about 2/3 finished for this wine. It is glossy, rich, and balanced, and appears to be a typical representation of this wine at Lafarge. (88-90)
2022 Bourogne rouge
Floral and cherry notes in the nose. The mouth is pure with beautiful cherry fruit, freshness, intensity, and balance. The vines average about 45 years in age. From a parcel that at one time had been classified as village Volnay and is very much a Volnay in all but appellation. (89-91)
2022 Volnay
This wine is broader and shows more depth than the the Bourgogne with pretty red and dark fruits, freshness, and a smooth texture. The vines here average about 50 years. (90-93)
2022 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
Lafarge’s Clos des Chênes is different from others — it is next to Taillepieds, and as the late Hubert de Montille once pointed out to me, it is really a Taillepieds rather than a Clos des Chênes. As a result, it can be very slow to develop, but it definitely is worth waiting for. This is one of the great Lafarge Clos des Chênes that I have sampled in this august cellar. The wine shows great depth, purity, and airiness to its fruit. In is intense, long, and fresh. The vines here average 55 years of age. (95-97)