Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Bottle and a 2017 Tasted from Bottle


(Please see my overview of the vintage here.)

Gregory Gouges said that the 25 July hail caused losses in Les Saint-Georges, Vaucrains, and Chênes Carteaux, all south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Overall, the estate made 20hl/ha, with 50% losses where there was hail. 

Harvesting began on 8 September. Vinification was classic for the estate — all grapes destemmed, 20% new wood. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were early for the estate, finishing by the middle of December, and so bottling is early, with several of the wines already being in bottle when I visited in late October 2019.

Alcohols range from 13.5% to 14.5%. Although I generally disfavor Burgundy at 14% alcohol, much less 14.5%, I found the wines here open and expressive, and they were able to handle the higher alcohols, being successful across the board.

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges
The village wine has dark fruits in the nose, followed in the mouth by a silky texture with dark plum fruits, finesse, a medium-weight body, and good overall balance. Bottled in early September 2019. 91/A

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru   Les Chaignots
Also from bottle, the nose of the Chaignots has hints of smoke and spice. Good acidity for the vintage in the mouth, and the fruit here is not as ripe as in the village wine, but this wine is the less interesting one at this stage.  89+/B

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru   Les Chênes Carteaux
The Chênes Carteaux is pretty and pure with dark berry fruit, round tannins, length, some spice, and quality tannins. 93/A

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru  Clos des Porrets-Saint Georges
Tasted from cask, as are the other wines below, the Clos des Porrets-St Georges is dense and pure with spicy purple fruits, balanced acidity, ripe tannins, and touch of smokiness. (92-94)

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru   Les Pruliers
The Pruliers is dense and intense and more closed than the foregoing wines with plenty of fruit and real structure. (91-93)

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru   Les Vaucrains
 The nose has typical Vaucrains smokiness. The mouth displays good freshness and acidity with plenty of structure. The tannins are ripe, as is the fruit. (93-95)

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru  Les Saint-Georges
Last of the reds, the Les Saint-Georges displays freshness, acidity, and structure in a medium-weight body. The wine has plenty of fruit and depth. As is typical, it is smoother than the Vaucrains, but there is plenty of tannic structure here. (93-95)

2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru  Les Pruliers
My score on an “objective" basis is comparable to the 2018 Pruliers, but the wines are, of course, quite different, and my personal stylistic preference is for this wine. It is perfumed in the nose. The mouth is smooth, pure, and complex with red and some dark berry fruit. There are some tannins, but the wine already is quite drinkable. 92+/A

The whites were picked prior to the reds in 2018. There was no acidification of these wines.

2018 Bourgogne   Pinot Blanc
The nose shows fruit blossoms, and the mouth is round and ripe with outstanding density. It is a charming wine. 88/A

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges   1er Cru   La Perrière
The nose of the Perrière is more tightly-wound and mineral than the Bourgogne, but there are still floral notes here. The mouth displays pear fruit, a smooth texture, good depth, and structure that suggests the wine ideally should be aged a few years to achieve its full potential. The parcel here was originally planted in 1956 and individual wines have been replaced as needed. 92/A