Since I last visited in 2019, a new cuverie has been installed, looking very much like that which Faiveley put in a few years before.
The 2022s were ready to pick as early as 25 August, explained Jacques Devauges, but he delayed until 1 September. He began then with the whites and the harvest was over on 8 September. Yields in 2021 were about half of normal; in 2022, they were normal plus some more. Malolactic fermentations finished before Christmas 2022, quite common in Burgundy, as there was very little malic acidity in the vintage.
As the estate continues with organic and biodynamic practices under the excellent direction of Jacques Devauges, there is no question that quality continues to mount.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
The wine is pure with an oily texture and quince fruit, and there is minerality here. Very good length. Jacques says that the parcel is 14 rows that run from the bottom to the top, which he thinks gives the full diversity of the vineyard. 13.6% finished alcohol. (92-94)
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret
The Clos du Cailleret is just north of the Marquis de Laguiche parcel of Montrachet, and indeed, we have gone from a good premier cru with the Folatières to grand cru quality with this wine. And not surprisingly, it resembles the Montrachet that Drouhin makes from the Marquis de Laguiche parcel, just to the south. The wine is floral, pure, and focused in the nose. The mouth is less opulent than that of the Folatières and more linear but it so pure, direct, and clear. An all-time classic. 13.6% alcohol. (95-97)
And on to the reds. Except for the Morey village, for which the percentage is less, the wines are 50-80% whole clusters; the Clos des Lambrays is 80% whole clusters:
2022 Morey-Saint-Denis
This wine is from the Les Larrets and En la Rue de Vergy lieux-dits above the Clos des Lambrays. The nose is mineral and pure. The mouth is pure and silky with red fruits and firmness. It is a beautiful wine, very much benefitting from the warmth of the vintage. (91-93)
2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Loups
This wine is from the 1er Cru vineyards of Le Village, La Riotte, and Les Blanchards. Unlike earlier vintages, it no longer contains declassified fruit from the Clos des Lambrays. The nose here is less expressive than that of the village wine. The mouth is rounder with darker fruit and more sensuality. Tannins are showing here, too. (91-94)
There are also some new vineyards here since I last visited in 2019. The Morey vines had at one time been part of the Domaine des Lambrays but stayed with the seller, the Cosson family, when the property was sold back in the 1970s. Cosson was operating organically in those vineyards, there is no transition to organic with these wines.
2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos Baulet
The nose and mouth here are spicy. The wine is medium-weight, with red and black cherry fruit. The wine is sensual and delicious; there are some tannins on the finish, but they are quality tannins. (91-94)
2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbet
This is quite a superb wine, from very old vines. The nose is stony and spicy. The mouth is more complex than the foregoing reds with dark fruits, purity, intensity, and sensuality. This holding is 1.15 ha. (93-95)
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
The wine has a floral nose. The mouth is pure and luminous with red fruits, a silky texture, and overall sensuousness. It is a classic Beaux Monts. From 0.45 ha in the upper portion of Beaux Monts. 2022 is the second year of this wine made by Lambrays. (93-96)
2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone
Those who know the ins and outs of the premier cru vineyards of the Côte de Nuits know that La Richemone, which gets little publicity, is nevertheless one of the most outstanding premiers crus. This is a 0.9 ha parcel that previously had been farmed by Perrot-Minot and has some vines dating to 1924. The wine is dense, dark, pure, and long with lots of fruit and an overall voluptuous presentation. (94-97)
2022 Clos des Lambrays
Similar to neighboring Clos de Tart, where Jacques previously was in charge, he has divided the Clos des Lambrays into different plots. There are three major ones from bottom to top and they are farmed separately, for example different pruning dates. He raises the wines from each plot separately, too, to try to reveal what is best for each plot, but them puts them back together. He makes a point that this is not a blend of best parts, but rather a reconstruction of the Clos. I tasted four of the separate plots, but it would be academic to repeat them here. The final blend showed a nose that was relatively closed with dark, earthy fruit, some herbs; overall it was most attractive. The mouth was deep, complex, and powerful with dark fruits, showing excellent length and also some chalkiness. Plenty of energy here. Overall, this was a complete wine. (95-98)