Technical Director Boris Champy said that he believes Lambrays is already one of the top fifteen domaines in Burgundy, and his goal is to make it one of the top three. It’s a daunting challenge; I think Domaine de la Romanée-Conti would make almost all lists of the top three from informed judges, but there would be quite a bit of diversity with respect to the remaining two. That makes it difficult when you aren’t even sure whom you are chasing.
Harvesting in 2017 took place on 31 August for the Puligny-Folatières, 2 September for the Puligny-Clos du Cailleret, and it began on 3 September for the Clos des Lambrays. The harvest finished on 12 September with the village Morey. At the village level, the yield was 29 hl/ha, for the Clos des Lambrays, it was 37 hl/ha. Malo-lactic fermentations were quick, finishing by 1 December.
We start this time with the whites. Boris said that his goal is zero rate of premature oxidation, and the estate is taking various measures to control the oxygen in order to achieve that goal. For one, there have been some barrel changes, and for another the necks of the bottles have been reduced to 17 mm in diameter (18.5 or 19 is standard), the same as it was 100 years ago.
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
Tasting shortly after bottling, this wine is rich, mineral, and broad with some sucrosity giving roundness to the texture, and some oak showing. 34 hl/ha here. 92/A
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret
The Clos du Cailleret has a pure, nervy, stony nose. The mouth shows some of the sucrosity of the vintage (which, based on past experience, I think will disappear with time) and is mineral and stony. The proximity to Chevlier-Montrachet is no surprise for this wine. Higher yields here: 44 hl/ha. 94(+)/A
Passing to the reds, where Boris is experimenting with different toast levels:
2017 Morey-Saint-Denis
There’s good firmness and precision to this wine, red fruits, freshness, and depth. 100% destemmed. (91-93)
2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru
From premier cru vineyards La Riotte, Clos Sorbè, and Le Village, this wine shows mineral red fruits. It is light and pure in the mouth with finesse, a little salinity, and good length. There are tannins showing but of good quality. 15% whole clusters in this wine. (91-93)
2017 Clos des Lambrays
The Clos des Lambrays is spicy in both nose and mouth. The wine is medium-weight with finesse to go with fruit that is primarily red currant, although there is some dark fruit here, too. The wine has calmness and salinity and excellent length. There’s some oak still showing (50% new here). 90% whole clusters. (93-96)