Wines from Savoie Recently Tasted -- Adrien Berlioz and Lambert de Seyssel

 

Adrien BERLIOZ


Adrien Berlioz is the cousin of the (up to now) more famous Gilles Berlioz. He began producing wine in 2006, and based on these three wines, is doing a an outstanding job. 


Certified organic. Chignin-Bergeron is from the grape known locally as Bergeron and that is the same as Roussanne in the Rhône Valley.


2018 Vin de Savoie  Chignin-Bergeron  Cuvée Euphrasie

This wine has richness, although not as much as the 2020 Raipoumpou below. The nose and mouth show a tremendously complex combination of citrus fruit with various herbs. This wine drinks great now and has the balance to last several years, although I admit to no experience with aging this producer’s wines. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot01. 91/A


2020 Vin de Savoie  Chignin-Bergeron  Cuvée Raipoumpou

Just wow! Compare this wine to a top premier cru Côte de Beaune Chardonnay — yes, there are flavor profile differences, but the richness, intensity, and complexity are on the same level, and so here’s an example of how to drink truly great wine without being trapped by the grossly increasing prices (at least in the US and UK) for the top white Burgundy names. This wine has richness offset by piercing acidity with great lemony minerality and a velvet texture. It drinks superbly already but has the balance to age a very long time. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot01. 94/A+


2021 Roussette de Savoie   Altesse   Zulime

To understand this wine from the Altesse grape as more than just a pleasant, dry sipper, you need to pay attention. But the subtlety is worth it. This is a nobly austere, pure, stony wine in a light body with depth and purity. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 01.  91/A




LAMBERT DE SEYSSEL


A pair of attractive and out-of-the-ordinary sparkling wines.


Practicing biodynamic methods. 


nv Sparkling Wine  Petit Royal  méthode traditionnllelle

This is a clean, clear sparkling wine that reminds me of the clarity of Savoie wines from Altesse and from other grapes, but of no other sparkling wine that I know. It’s far from the most complex or interesting sparkling wine, but one worth trying for the novelty, if nothing else. 60% Molette grape, 40% Altesse. Cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. 86/B


2015 Seyssel  Royal Seyssel  Grand Cru Régional  méthode traditionnelle

This sparkling wine bears the Seyssel appellation and is 70% from the Molette grape, 30% from Altesse, aged thirty-six months in bottle. There’s more body, depth, smoothness, and sophistication here than in the Petit Royal above, and it goes with fresh white fruits. If you’re looking for a sparkling wine, this is different from but equal or superior in quality to a good part of the Champagne market. DIAM Mytik closure. 12% stated alcohol.  88/A