I have found Ridge in recent years to have moved more in the direction of wines of oak and power, which is not my preferred style and not consistent with Ridge wines I’ve known from further back. I cannot say whether this is a result of climate change, winemaker preferences, or both. As mentioned below, John Olney, who has long been in charge of the wines at Ridge’s Lytton Springs facility, is now taking over as head winemaker and chief operating officer at Ridge, so we’ll see in the future if there is any change in direction for the wines.
The assessments below are “objective" in the sense that I have tried to eliminate as much as possible my personal preferences in judging the wines.
2019 Chardonnay Estate Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello Estate Vineyard
Notwithstanding the 14.3% stated alcohol, this wine is light, fresh, crisp, and mineral. The nose and mouth have citric elements and there’s also a very slight touch of sweetness on the finish, presumably from alcohol and/or oak. The wine was fermented in barrel and went through malolactic fermentation. Barrels are 87% air-dried American oak, 13% French; 37% one year-old, 8% two year, 9% three year, 13% four year, and 18% five year; 30% in stainless steel. I’d opt for serving this below cellar temperature. The winemaker’s notes suggest drinking the wine between 2020 and 2027. Cork closure. 91/A
2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello Vineyard
This wine is made from lots that don’t go into the grand vin, Ridge Monte Bello. I can’t recall every having had a wine that has performed like this. For the first few days after opening, I found the wine undrinkable due to the overwhelming American oak signature, and in particular the very strong taste of dill weed. By days three and four, the dill was beginning to recede, but I still couldn’t find anything relating to what I know as Monte Bello here. By day five (and no, the wine was not oxidized), the Monte Bello origins began to show, although there is still a strong American oak presence (but without the dill). 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. 14.0% stated alcohol. Unrated — see notes.
2019 Geyserville Alexander Valley Sonoma County
The combination of Zinfandel and other grapes plus American oak currently gives simple, forward, somewhat candied chocolate-raspberry aromas and flavors. With perhaps 5-8 years’ time, I think this wine will drop these forward flavors and aromas and become even more complex. The tannins are round enough that the wine can be drunk now, but the wine has the balance to age gracefully for a couple of decades. 71% Zinfandel, 19% Carignane 7% Petite Sirah, 3% Alicante Bouchet. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. 90+/A-
2019 Zinfandel Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley East Bench
This is modern-style Zinfandel with power, elegance, brambly fruit, a glossy and creamy texture, some chocolate overtones, and an impression of sweetness on the finish. I’d match it with pasta with tomato sauces, pesto, and the like, as well as grilled meats. The wine drinks well already, but John Olney, responsible for the wine and recently elevated to Ridge’s chief winemaker, says it will develop over the next seven years. 100% Zinfandel. Cork Closure. 14.8% stated alcohol. 88/B
2019 Zinfandel Paso Robles Benito Dusi Ranch
This is a big wine but not showing heat from the alcohol nor excessive power or concentration. The red briary fruits show elegance for a wine of this size, but the American oak signature is quite strong. My preference is to drink this wine at cellar temperature which downplays somewhat the oak and enlivens the acidity. It’s a wine for drinking over the next few years with grilled meats, barbecue, very hearty stews, and like fare. 100% Zinfandel. Cork closure. 14.8% stated alcohol. 88/B