The 2021 vintage in Germany has received plenty of accolades, and this collection from von Kesselstatt affirms the quality.
2021 Schloss Marienlay Riesling trocken
This wine functions as von Kesselstatt’s estate Riesling, combining grapes from the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer Valleys. The wine is light on the palate and crackling crisp with a feeling of complete dryness, but without any harshness or astringency. Initially, the wine is stony and austere; a day after opening, stone fruits begin to appear. Screw cap closure. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 22. 90/B+
2021 Riesling trocken Alte Reben
This is an old vine (“Alte Reben”) bottling from von Kesselstatt’s various vineyard holdings. It is much more concentrated, closed, and powerful than the Schloss Marienlay Riesling trocken, and therefor more difficult to judge at this state. The wine is medium-full, yet not ponderous on the palate. It shows yellow and white fruit with bare hints of tropical fruit, all bound together by the acidity, and it tastes bone dry. But I would cellar this wine for several years. Screw cap closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 22. 88(+)/B
2021 Graach Riesling trocken
This is another wine that takes its time to open, and in fact is better a day, and still better two days, after opening. It is fully dry with lime fruit and the subtlety of outstanding Mittel Mosel. Presumably this contains declassified Joesphshöfer wine. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 22. 91/A-
2021 (Graach) Josephshöfer Riesling GG
Dense, pure, penetrating, glazed yellow fruits, crystalline, outstanding. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 22. 94/A
2021 Schloss Marienlay Riesling feinherb
As with the trocken version of this wine, it functions as the estate Riesling, combining fruit from Kesselstatt properties in the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer Valleys. The residual sugar in this wine functions to give extra roundness and fruitiness, but the wine finishes dry, even to my sweet-sensitive palate. The wine is medium-weight, dense, and round with apricot and white nectarine fruit, and good acidity that gives freshness. Screw cap closure. 10.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 22. 90/A
2021 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett feinherb
The Scharzhofberger Kabinett feinherb is off-dry and crisp in a medium-light body. It is stony, but already the peach and apricot fruits that will develop over time are beginning to peek through. Cork closure. 10.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 22 22. 92(+)/A
2021 (Graacher) Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett feinherb
Despite the sensitivity of my palate to residual sugar, this wine tastes essentially dry — the acidity keeps the sugar from showing through. The wine is light and crisp with white peach and white nectarine fruit, a delight to sample as soon as the cork is pulled. Cork closure. 10.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 22. 92/A
2021 Riesling Sommerpalais
This is the only von Kesselstatt wine reviewed here that is not an estate wine. I’ve had good versions in the past, but this one exceeds my expectations, a tribute both the the continuing improvement of von Kesselstatt’s quality and also of that of the vintage. The wine is light and virtually dry with yellow plums showing and a refreshing acidic attack. Screw cap closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 59 22. 87/A
2021 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett
The Scharzhofberger Kabinett is a bit sweeter than the Scharzhofberger Kabinett feinherb and perhaps not quite as forward in revealing its fruit at this stage, but time will bring it out. Cork closure. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 23 22. 92(+)/A
2021 (Kaseler) Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett
Just an astonishingly stupendous wine with brilliant acid/sugar balance, depth, intensity, purity of peach and apricot fruit, concentration, and penetration. Maybe it will still improve, but if you come across a bottle, don’t deprive yourself of what is there now. Cork closure. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 22. 95/A+
2021 (Piesporter) Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett
The Goldtröpfchen Kabinett is rather inexpressive at this time, taking several days to open. The wine is medium-light, concentrated, and dense, but the fruit remains mostly hidden for the moment. After several days, the typical Goldtröpfchen fruit does begin to show. This is somewhat, but not overly, sweet for a Kabinett. Cork closure. 8.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 22. 90+/A
2019 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #10
The 2019 Scharzhofberger Auslese #10 is rather sweet but has the acidity necessary to keep all in balance. The wine shows density and concentration to go with yellow and white fruits and perhaps a touch of tropical fruit. It can be drunk with pleasure now but will continue to improve for decades. Cork closure. 8.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 37 20. 94/A
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