With the pandemic travel bans and limited wine importation due to the (thankfully now-rescinded) tariffs, I’ve had little opportunity to taste wines from the much-heralded 2019 German vintage. This is my first opportunity to taste more than an occasional bottling.
2018 Majorat Riesling Brut
This sparkling Riesling, a négociant wine, is off-dry with enough acidity to give crispness to its pineapple fruit. There are no faults, but also nothing to excite here. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 20. 84/C
2020 Sommerpalais Riesling
The Sommerpalais, also a négociant wine, is off-dry, light, and clear with tropical and pear fruit aromas and flavors, and also a touch of almond paste on the palate. The wine shows concentration and is a fitting wine for aperitif or with seafood or fowl over the next four-5 years. Screw cap closure. 11.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 51 21. 86/B
2019 (Graach) Josephshöfer Riesling GG (trocken)
At the moment, this wine seems disappointingly unfocused. There’s some minerality here in a medium-light body and good concentration, but the somewhat slate-influenced fruit lacks precision. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 44 20. 88/B
2019 (Piesporter) Goldtröpfchen Riesling GG (trocken)
The Goldtröpfchen GG is very closed at this time, and so difficult to judge. On the first day that I opened the bottle, I was not able to get very much out of the wine. On the following day, some yellow and white peach fruit began to show in a medium-weight body with a chalky texture. Give the wine some time in the cellar. Cork closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 43 20. 90?/B+
2019 (Kaseler) Nies’chen Riesling GG (trocken)
A classic from this outstanding Ruwer vineyard with white grapefruit aromas and flavors, a medium-light body, and firmness, but not a great deal of tension. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 46 20. 92/A
2019 (Graach) Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett feinherb
Just ever-so-slightly sweet with a light body, good tension, slate-driven fruit. The wine is gulpingly good now and show improve for several years and then last for a decade or more after that. Cork closure. 11.5% stated alcohol, 25.1 g/l residual sugar, 8.1 g/l acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 20. 91/A
2019 (Piesporter) Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett
Like the Goldtröpfchen GG, this wine is very closed on the first day after opening, and even on the second. On the third day, it finally begins to show intense, deep Goldtröpfchen yellow peach fruit. The body is medium-full with power, and the wine is fairly sweet for a Kabinett, and in fact is to my mind more of a Spätlese in style. I’d be inclined to hold this wine for 5-8 years before beginning to drink it, and then it should continue to last for at least a decade or two after that. Cork closure.10.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 25 20. 89(+)/A-
2019 (Graach) Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese
Josephshöfer is a monopole of von Kesselstatt. This wine is medium-light in weight, smooth, concentrated, and deep with sweetness (93.8 g/l residual sugar) that is excellently balanced by the round acidity (8.9 g/l). The wine shows apricot, orange marmalade, and golden raisin flavors, as well as a touch of brown sugar that probably comes from a touch of botrytis. This wine is delicious to drink already and show still be doing well two decades from now. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 20. 92/A
2019 (Piesporter) Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese
The Goldtröpfchen Spätlese is considerably riper than the Josephshöfer, showing more volume, flesh, and sweetness than the Josephshöfer. There’s a touch of brown sugar (presumably botrytis) in the nose and mouth, and the yellow peach fruit typical of the vineyard is joined by green apple overtones. Just as the Kabinett is Spätlese in style, this Spätlese is Auslese in style. The wine drinks well now and over the next few decades, at least. Cork closure. 9.0% stated alcohol, 90.1 g/l residual sugar, 8.5 g/l acidity. Last digits of APN: 26 20. 91/A-
2019 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese
This is classic Scharzhofberger Spätlese: firm and medium-weight with depth and incipient apricot fruit. The acidity balances the sugar and the wine has the sweetness one expects of a Spätlese, plus fine length. The wine drinks well now but should improve for another 10-15 years and then last well after that. Cork closure. 8.5% stated acidity, 68.5 g/l residual sugar, 8.0 g/l acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 20. 93/A
2018 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #10 Long Gold Capsule
Light, racy, and penetrating with sweetness and the balancing acidity plus very clear botrytis to go with peach and tropical fruit. The designation of long gold capsule is just; the wine is just short of Beerenauslese in style. It is an ideal of the vineyard, and it can be drunk now and up to 40-50+ years. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 41 19. 96/A