Recent Northern Rhônes Part I: Barge, Belle, Blachon, Chapoutier

 Recent vintages have been uneven here. Many of the wines are high in alcohol, but these producers handled it better than one would fear. Use of new oak seems to be more problematic, though.



BARGE J.


2018 Saint-Joseph   Clos de la Ribaudy rouge

Julien Barge has produced a sumptuous wine that has minerality, breadth, a velvet texture, and dark fruits with spices. The acidity is moderate, but not deficient, and there’s also good freshness for the vintage. It’s in a good place now, so I’d probably drink in the next 3-4 years. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. 91/A




Domaine BELLE


My experience with Belle’s wines bought in France leads me to suspect that the wines sent to the U.S., where these wines were purchased, are different — substantially more oak and more alcohol.


2017 Crozes-Hermitage   Cuvée Louis Belle   rouge

Quite a bit of new oak here — lovers of New World Syrah will react far more positively than I; I and lovers of traditional Northern Rhône will find my score generous because there is no obvious fault other than the oak. Red and dark plum fruit, some minerality; alcohol, although stated as high, is well-integrated. Rich, smooth texture. And plenty of vanillins from the oak. Cork Closure. Lot L 17101. 14.50% stated alcohol. 86/C


2018 Crozes-Hermitage   Les Pierrelles   rouge

Modern, international style here. The high alcohol helps to make for a rich, rustic, and powerful wine with plenty of dark fruit, possibly some new oak showing, a plush texture, low acidity, and no great differentiation or precision. Some will love it considerably more than I. I’d drink this over the next 3-5 years. Cork closure. Lot L18201. 14.50% stated alcohol. 84/F




BLACHON


2016 Saint-Joseph   Le Paradis   Cuvée Tradition rouge

Blachon is located in Mauves, the little village between Cornas and Tournon that also houses Gonon, Gripa, Jean-Louis Chave, Marsanne, and Coursodon, all noted producers of Saint-Joseph (among other wines). Additionally, Domaine Florentin, now part of Jean-Louis Chave, was located in Mauves. From the excellent Le Paradis lieu-dit, this is a rich wine with a velvet texture, round tannins, and ripe dark fruits with a soy element. I’d drink this wine over the next 3-5 years. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 05. 88/B




M. CHAPOUTIER


Whites:


2018 Collines Rhodaniennes Viognier  La Combe Pilate

This is a delicious wine with aromatic, fresh peach fruit and none of the heaviness or overbearing aspect that Viognier can often have. Certified organic and biodynamic. 14% alcohol according to Chapoutier's website.  88/A


2018 Saint-Joseph  Les Granilites

This white is entirely from Marsanne. Made from purchased grapes, the wine is mineral and pure with richness to its peach fruit. I think it benefits from being served very cool. Certified organic. 13.5% alcohol according to Chapoutier's website.  89/B+


2019 Saint-Péray  Haut Chamblard

Entirely from Marsanne planted in 2012, this wine has floral aromas. The mouth is spicy and mineral with good clarity. Certified organic and biodynamic. 14.5% stated alcohol. 89/B+


2017 Hermitage  Chante Alouette

From young vines of Chapoutier’s Hermitage holdings, the Chante Alouette, too, is 100% Marsanne. The wine is riche with power, purity, length, some oiliness, and minerality. Certified organic and biodynamic. 13.5% stated alcohol. 92/A-


Reds:


2018 Crozes-Hermitage  Les Meysonniers

Les Meysonniers is a wine made from purchased grapes and raised in cement. The nose is floral, perfumed, and spicy. The mouth is medium-weight with spicy dark fruits. Certified organic. 14% stated alcohol. 87/B


2018 Crozes-Hermitage   Sicamor

The Sicamor is a more serious wine with darker and denser fruit and more depth and concentration. 14% stated alcohol according to Chapoutier's website, 14.5% according to the label, but either way, the alcohol does not stick out. Certified organic and biodynamic.  89/A-


2018 Cornas   Temenos

The Temenos is from the Saint-Pierre, Mazard, and Reynard lieux-dits. The wine shows finesse for Cornas with length to its deep, intense dark fruits that are characteristic of the appellation. The stated alcohol is 15%, although that is not apparent when tasting the wine. Certified organic. 92/A


2016 Hermitage   Monier de La Sizeranne

The Monier de la Sizeranne is from younger vines (here meaning less than 40 years-old) in Chapoutier’s Hermitage holdings. The nose shows a touch of new oak (the wine is raised in demi-muids, about 10% new, and then in cement); with a bit more time in the bottle, I expect the oak to burn off or fully integrate. The mouth is smooth, intense, deep, and steely with dark fruits. It’s a wine that still can use some time, maybe 4-5 years, until it reaches peak drinkability. Certified organic and biodynamic. 13.5% alcohol according to Chapoutier's website. 90+/B+