The region was hit very, very hard by the frosts of 2017. Be sure to buy sufficient stocks of what's around to carry you through a few years if you are a fan of these wines.
Domaine de l’AIGLE À DEUX TÊTES/Henri LEROY
Not in the class of Pignier or Ganevat, but only one tier down. These wines are worth searching out.
2016 Côtes du Jura Melon à Queue Rouge Derrière la Roche
Melon à Queue Rouge is a grape type that some say is a separate varietal, while others say it is a variant of Chardonnay. (Derrière la Roche is the name of the vineyard.) Whichever it is, this wine recalls a fine Meursault with its butter, almond, and citrus aromas and flavors, oily texture, and concentration of fruit to go with lightness on the palate and slight salinity. The back label says to serve this wine “with noble cuisine,” and that, indeed, is the case. Surprise your friends by serving this wine blind at an important dinner. 13.3% stated alcohol. 92/A
2016 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Lices en Peria
This wine is a different style from the Derrière la Roche. No butteriness here, this wine is light and mineral with some acidic cut — tasted blind, Chablis would be the obvious guess. 12.1% stated alcohol. 91/A
2016 Côtes du Jura Naturé Les Clous
Naturé is an alternative name for Savagnin. Here it makes a light-bodied wine in the fresh (non-oxidative) style with steeliness, honeysuckle aromas, and subtle honeyed lemon fruit. The wine has plenty of freshness and nice minerality. It’s good either as an aperitif or with fish, poultry, and cheese that are not too assertive. 13.0% stated alcohol. 90/A-
2016 Côtes du Jura Poulsard Les Clous
Poulsard can be a very difficult grape, both for producers and for consumers. With thin skins and large grapes, many producers make it essentially as a rosé wine, and it often is more than a little funky. Such is not the case here; Leroy makes the wine as a red wine (ruby red and quite transparent, rather like a light Pinot Noir), and there’s no funkiness here at all. This is a light-weight wine with freshness, and raspberry jam, red cherry, and rose elements. I’d drink this wine young with cheese or charcuterie. 13.4% stated alcohol. 90/A
Domaine BAUD Génération 9
2015 L’Étoile Chardonnay
This is an attractive wine with a smooth texture, light weight, and good purity to its typically-Jura earthy, lemony Chardonnay fruit. 87/B
2016 Côtes du Jura Poulsard En Rougement
The wine has strawberry jam and ginger aromas and flavors in a light-weight body, and dry tannins on the finish. I don't find it interesting on its own, but it can accompany charcuterie or cheese. 85/C
CHAMP DIVIN/Fabrice et Valérie CLOSSET
2016 Crémant du Jura brut nature zéro dosage
Made with no dosage, this sparkling wine is for lovers of austerity. It is light and has slightly smoky apple fruit. Certified organic and biodynamic. Lot LCB160317. 86/B
Loreline LABORDE/Les GRANGES PAQUENESSES
2016 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Ouillé La Mamette
This is Chardonnay in the fresh (non-oxidative) style. The wine has lemon drop aromas and flavors that one often finds in the Jura with crispness, medium weight, and decent acidity. I’d drink this wine over the next 2-3 years. La Mamette is an old vineyard with various types of Chardonnay planted in it. Certified organic. Lot L2016CO. 12.5% stated alcohol. 87/B
PIGNIER
Probably my favorite Jura producer. Certified organic and biodynamic.
2016 Côtes-du-Jura Sauvageon
Sauvegeon is an old name for Savagnin. From old vines, this wine is made in the non-oxidative style. It is light and airy in body, crisp, pure, and has a sharp lemon minerality to it. It is, of course, totally dry. It is a delight to drink on its own and also with food. Lot L10816. 12.5% stated alcohol. 92/A
2017 Côtes-du-Jura Trousseau
Given the tremendous damage done by frost in 2017 resulting in minuscule yields, this may be a wine that is impossible to find. But if you do come across it, there’s quality here. The wine has attractive, pure, intense red cherry fruit and freshness in a body that is light on the palate; you could probably trick knowledgeable friends into thinking it’s a well-made red Burgundy from a lesser terroir. I’d decant an hour before serving and serve it somewhat cool. Raised in demi-muids (600-liter casks). 89/A
G. QUILLOT
2014 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay vieilles vignes
From the great 2014 Chardonnay vintage, this wine is very good, typical Jura Chardonnay at a very attractive price. The wine is medium-weight with earthy aromas and intense lemon zest flavors and subtle touches of orange and butter, plus good depth and salinity. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L80725R01. 89/B+