The disaster that the frost caused in Chambolle-Musigny was well-known, so there was no surprise that the estate lost 50% of a normal crop there. But word had been that only Chambertin had been badly hit in 2016, so I was surprised at my visit here, the first in Gevrey on the trip, to learn that Fourrier lost 30% of his crop in Gevrey-Chambertin (I subsequently visited other producers who had serious Gevrey losses).
Harvesting here began on 28 September and lasted four days. Malolactic fermentations were late for the estate, finishing between April and June. As always, all the grapes were destemmed (but see an exception in Fourrier’s negociant wines that I will next review). The wines should be bottled in the first two months of next year.
2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay
The vines here are in the Chambolle-Musigny commune, below the route nationale. The wine shows hazelnuts, an oily texture, and good length. (85-88)
2016 Chambolle-Musigny
The nose is spicy with red fruits. The mouth is light on the palate with silkiness to go with red berries, good freshness, and length. (87-91)
2016 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Solon
Here, the fruit is darker than in the Chambolle. The wine is light on the palate, silky, and long. (88-91)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin
The regular Gevrey village is smooth with dark fruits, Gevrey wildness, silkiness of texture, lightness on the palate, and good length. (89-92)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Échézeaux
The Aux Échézeaux lieu-dit is bounded to the east and north by grand cru Mazoyères-Chambertin, to the west by the route nationale, and to the south by Morey-Saint-Denis. The nose here is floral and perfumed. The mouth shows greater depth and density, but less wildness, than the regular Gevrey, and the wine has a silky texture. (89-92)
2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers
In Chambolle, Fourrier was not able to harvest enough to produce a Sentiers, but he did produce a Gruenchers, which some other owners in the vineyard could not manage. The wine is medium-weight with dark fruits, length, silkiness, and elegance. (90-93)
2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbè
The Clos Sorbè is medium-light on the palate with some nervosity to go with its reddish fruits. It is classic Clos Sorbè. (91-94)
2016 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot
The Petits Vougeot is still denser. It features dark fruits and is light on the palate. (90-94)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes
Here, the vines are planted more densely than for the other vineyards. The wine shows good tension to go with dark fruits, nice acidity, and good crispness. It is classic Cherbaudes. (91-94)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux
The Champeaux is long and dense with dark fruits that roll off the tongue. The wine is medium-weight with good energy and intensity. (91-95)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots
Fourrier’s Goulots displays red and dark fruits with structure that is more apparent than in the foregoing, and good tension. But it is not as powerful as some of the foregoing wines. (91-94)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moînes
The vineyard here is a former quarry, and so the summer heat was concentrated. The wine shows blackberry fruit with power, but also finesse. Very good length. here. (91-95)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques
This wine is quite lovely with red fruits and minerality, but the gaminess that I consider a part of the Clos Saint-Jacques terroir is not apparent at this time. (92-96)
2016 Griotte-Chambertin
Last, the Griotte-Chambertin shows red (griotte, even if that is not the origin of the vineyard name) cherries with good density, length, and sensuality. (92-96)