Harvesting began with the whites on 16 September (Meursault, Clos de la Baronne young vines and Meursault-Bouchères) and finished on 27 September with the red Monthélie-Duresses.
In 2016, all red wines were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were rather early for Lafon, finishing in January and February. The Monthélie and many of the whites were already in tank when I tasted, and by December, all the wines will be in tank. For the reds, at least, there was almost no new oak, but more recent barrels than usual.
Acidities are a little less than in 2015 and in the range of normal.
The quality is certainly here in 2016, but as for the quantity . . . .
As usual, we start with the reds:
2016 Monthélie 1er Cru Les Duresses
From tank, this wine has pure, mineral dark fruits, good length, and lightness on the palate. Harvested 26 and 27 September. (88-91)
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
The nose and mouth feature dens, pure dark fruits that are precise and fresh. This should be classic Clos des Chênes. In 2017, Lafon has six barrels of this wine; in 2016, there are but 2-1/2 barrels. Harvested 24 September. (91-94)
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Champans
The Champans has precise dark fruit. The fleshiness of Champans is here, but the wine is still fresh and energetic. Harvested 23 September. (91-94)
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu
The wine shows red cherry fruit and is fresh and round — promising. 19 barrels here for 4 ha of land — about 10.7 hl/ha. Harvested 20, 22, and 23 September. (90-94)
Switching to the whites:
2016 Meursault
Apples, almonds, and butter make this a very representative Meursault. Normally there are 50 barrels of this wine; in 2016 there are but five. Harvested 19 September. (89-92)
2016 Meursault Désirée
This wine is fresh, penetrating, round, and powerful with spicy apple fruit. Total production is only about 970 bottles. Harvested 19n September. (90-93)
2016 Meursault Clos de la Barre
The Clos de la Barre is rich, harmonious, and mineral with apple fruit. A normal vintage is 50 barrels; 2016 is 8. Harvested 22 and 26 September. (90-93)
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères
The Bouchères is crisp, energetic, and slightly earthy with a bit of rust. The wine is medium-full but not heavy. It is a good exposition of the terroir. Alas, only 2-12 barrels (about 750 bottles) made. Harvested 16 September. (90-93)
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or
The Goutte d’Or has dusty aromas. The mouth is elegant with lemony/vanilla flavors. Normal production would be 9 barrels, in 2016 it is 3-1/2 barrels. Harvested 20 September. (91-95)
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots
Lafon’s Porusots has red cherry aromas. Th mouth shows red cherries and lots of energy. The wine is light on the palate, incisive, and has finesse. The vines here are about 50-60 years old. 2-1/2 barrels here for one hectare, or a yield of about 5.6 hl/ha. Harvested 20 September. (92-95)
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
Typical of the Genevrières, the wine here is lemony, pure, and long with great finesse. With this superb wine, the yields get considerably more favorable — about 47 hl/ha — and show what the vintage could have been without the frost. The vines are about 75 years-old. Harvested 21 September. (93-96)
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
The Charmes is richer and rounder than the Genevrières, as one expects, but less developed. There’s elegance here, but the wine is difficult to judge at this moment. Yields here, too, were normal to high due to lack of frost. Harvested 24 and 25 September. (90-94)
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
Lafon’s Perrières shows lime fruit, purity, and good tension, making for a typical Perrières. Vines here are 65 years-old and harvest size was normal. Harvested 21 September. (92-95)
As many readers may already know, the frost devastation on the Chassagne side of Montrachet was truly severe. Seven producers there, including Lafon, Romanée-Conti, and Domaine Leflaive, have combined their meagre harvest (overall, for the seven, just over 4 hl/ha) into one two-barrel lot being vinified by Domaine Leflaive.