Northern Rhône Wines Recently Tasted (Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche: Gonon, A. Graillot, Gripa

(Originally published 31 May 2018.)

Pierre GONON

Gonon’s prices have increased in recent years, yet when one looks at the quality, it’s hard to object. Rather than the current vintage being overprice, older vintages were underpriced. 

Certified organic.

2016 Vin de Pays de l’Ardèche     Les Îles Féray   rouge
The Gonon brothers are such superb producers that even from this wine bearing a modest vin de pays appellation is better than what most other Norther Rhône producers can come up with from much more prestigious appellations. The grapes are partially destemmed and the wine is aged in demi-muids (double-sized barrels). The wine has smoky, pure, precise dark berry and plum fruits along with violets in a medium-weight, relatively broad body with seemingly low (but not deficient) acidity. Despite the acidity, the wine retains great freshness. Simply superb for what it is. 13.5% stated alcohol.  91/A+

2016 Saint-Joseph  rouge
The Saint-Joseph is much more powerful, deep, and closed than the Îles Féray. It has smoky dark fruits with some violet and promises an astounding wine for those willing to wait 7-10 years. 13.5% stated alcohol. 94/A+




Alain GRAILLOT

2016 Crozes-Hermitage    rouge
Alain Graillot is into his fourth decade of making wine and showing no letup in quality. This wine is pure and crystalline with smoky red fruits. The body is medium-weight with some density and round tannins. Lot L 3. 13% stated alcohol.  90/A




B. GRIPA

2016 Saint-Joseph  blanc
Like other white Rhônes from 2016 that I’ve sampled, it’s a somewhat atypical vintage for its high acidity, and as a result, needs a little time to open — decanting ahead of time is recommended. It shows honey in the nose and mouth, a medium-weight body, richness and some smoothness, but also, as I said, higher acidity than usual. The wine should be at its peak for the next 5-8 years. Serve cool, but not chilled. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L216.  90(+)/A-

2016 Saint-Joseph  rouge
Gripa is one of my favorite producers in the region, but this wine is a bit atypical. It  seeims more extracted, tannic, and alcoholic than usual, not enough to be completely fatal, but enough so that the wine is not pleasurable to drink now, although there is enough positive here to give hope for 5-6 years down the road. The wine features dense dark cherry fruit and shows some burn on the finish. As a result of the burn, I’d drink this wine a little cooler than I normally would for a Saint-Joseph, perhaps around 62ºF/16ºC. Lot L 116. 14% stated alcohol. 90(+)?/A-