Hubert Rossignol, chef de culture, said that yields overall in 2015 were “average” — a fortunate rarity in the Côte d’Or in 2015. As usual, wines here are entirely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations finished between May and August. The alcohols for the Côte de Beaune wines “flirt" with 13º except fro the Cortons, which are at 13.5º.
The estate is organic and biodynamic.
The estate is organic and biodynamic.
As you can see below the results are outstanding, and that will continue with my next report, on the Pousse d’Or 2015s from the Côte de Nuits.
2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Tavannes
As usual, this is the most underrated wine in the pack, the one to look for in order to get the best value. The wine is dense and sensual with cassis fruit, medium weight, smooth texture, and overall freshness (89-92)
2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or
The Clos de la Bousse d’Or is denser than the Clos Tavannes and more tannic. It shows dark fruit, length, smoothness of texture, and overall finesse. About half the vines are 60 years or older, the rest are 25 years old or less. (91-94)
2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos d’Audignac
Like the preceding wine, the Clos d'Audignac is a monopole. The wine is structured and intense with cassis and other dark fruits, and it has good length and balance and a little more structure than the Clos de la Bousse d’Or. About 60% of the vines are 60 years and older, the remainder are 15 years old. (91-94)
2015 Volnay 1er Cru En Cailleret
The Cailleret is intense and concentrated with dark fruit, the very fine mouthfeel of Caillerets, and the wine shows outstanding balance and harmony. (92-96)
2015 Volnay 1er Cru En Cailleret amphora
I believe that there have been experiments with wines made in amphorae before in Burgundy, but this is the first that I’m aware of with wine from a major vineyard. No oak for the fermentation or aging, just ceramic amphorae, which have the same porosity as new oak but do not impart the oak flavors. This is a project of M. Rossignol; in 2016, he also has cuvées of Clos de la Bousse d’Or and Clos des 60 Ouvrées in addition to the En Cailleret — about 3000 bottles of each. The wine is deep and pure with cassis and greater finesse than in the regular En Cailleret. Additionally, the tannins are less marked and the acidity shows a little more liveliness, even though the technical analysis shows the same numbers. It’s a fascinating experiment. (92-96)
2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrées
The great Caillerets vineyard has two separate climats — (1) En Cailleret (from which the two preceding wines come and which is divided into two lieux-dits, En Cailleret and Cailleret Dessus) and (2) Les Caillerets-Clos des 60 Ouvrées. The Caillerets-Clos des Caillerets is yet another monopole of the estate and is quite distinct from what I think of as typical Caillerets — it’s texture is different. This wine is round and harmonious with a smooth texture and good length. the fruits here are red and the finesse is extraordinary. (93-96)
2015 Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollières
The Jarollières, just on the border of Volnay with Fremiers downslope and Chanlins upslope, is not a well-known vineyard, but it consistently delivers quality wine. From mostly very old vines, this wine has dark fruit and tannins that are harder than those of the Volnays, with a round and smooth texture, depth, and tremendous length. (92-95)
2015 Corton-Clos du Roi
This wine is harder and more closed than the Jarollières but shows great depth. There’s not a lot of charm today, but good potential and I may eventually have underrated the wine. (92-95)
2015 Corton-Bressandes
The Corton-Bressandes showed notably better than the Clos du Roi, with better precision to its red and dark fruits, which are long and fresh. Good nervosity here. (93-97)