Northern Rhône Wines Recently Tasted (Condrieu, Cornas, Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Jospeh): Ferraton, François, Gérard, Gilles

(Originally published 28 May 2018.)

FERRATON Père & Fils

Ferraton is both an estate and a négociant, owned by Michel Chapoutier since 2004, but run separately from Chapoutier.

2014 Crozes-Hermitage   Les Calendes   rouge
This is decent, if unexciting, Crozes-Hermitage. There’s plenty of dark Syrah fruit here, but little differentiation or precision, in a medium-full body. It appears that this is a négociant wine from Ferraton, but it is certified organic. 13.5% stated alcohol.  86/B-

2014 Saint-Joseph   La Source   rouge
Given the price, this isn’t a bad wine. There are red fruits with some minerality and hardness of texture that I associate with Saint-Joseph. There’s some spiciness that suggests to me that the wine comes from the region near Côte-Rôtie, but the website suggests that the wine (or perhaps just the bulk of it) is from the central region of St-Jo; it appears that this is négociant wine. Unlike the Crozes-Hermitage above, there is no organic certification here. 13% stated alcohol. 87/B




FRANÇOIS & Fils

2015 Côte-Rôtie
This wine has the power and concentration typical of the vintage but also shows some finesse to go with a creamy texture. The wine has spicy dark fruits, but it lacks the delineation and precision of a still better wine. I’d drink it over the next 8-10 years. Lot L10517. 13.5% stated alcohol. 87/C-

2015 Côte-Rôtie    Rozier
 The Rozier is more than a step up from the regular Côte-Rôtie. This wine shows concentrated, spicy (presumably Viognier) blackberry and other dark fruits with vanilla hints, good grip and a smooth texture. This is somewhat of a modernist wine, but well done in that style. Ideally, give this wine 4-5 years before beginning to drink it, but you can enjoy it already. Lot L20517. 13% stated alcohol. 90/B




Xavier GÉRARD

2016 Condrieu    L’Arbuel
The Condrieu, L'Arbuel is medium-weight and spicy, but not overly so, with good penetration. 90/A-

2016 Condrieu   La Côte Chatillon
Gérard’s Condrieu, Côte Chatillon also resists being exaggerated in its spiciness. The wine has good intensity and penetration. 90+/A-

2015 Condrieu   La Côte Chatillon
The 2015 Condrieu, Côte Chatillon is richer than the 2016 version, but shows less precision. 87/B

2015 Côte-Rôtie
This wine shows depth, intensity and spicy red fruits, but without anything else really special. About 1/3 destemmed. 89/B

2014 Côte-Rôtie
Perhaps this wine was just closed down when I tasted, but I found it medium-light and easy to drink, but lacking definition and intensity. 90% destemmed. 87+/C

2013 Côte-Rôtie
The 2013 Côte-Rôtie features red fruits and clarity, but it could use more depth. 50% destemed. 88/B-



Guillaume GILLES

2014 Vin de France   Les Peyrousses
From 100 year-old Syrah vines that are located in the commune of Cornas, but not within the appellation, this wine is dense, pure, and gravelly with smoky Cornas character and is drinking well now.88/A

2014 Cornas
The 2014 Cornas (from the Chaillot lieu-dit) is round and smooth, but not yet fully drinkable. The fruits are dark and this wine seems to need at least 5-8 years’ cellaring before it is ready. 89+/B

2015 Cornas
Gilles’s 2015 Cornas is an immense wine with plenty of extraction and depth, but also loads of tannin. There’s some minerality backing the dark fruits, but the question is whether the fruit will outlive the tannins — a common phrase, but not one I usually utter. If that turns out to be the case, this could be an exciting wine, but expect to wait at least 12-15 years to find out. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot LC 151. ?