All wines below are red wines unless otherwise stated.
2018-2019-2020 are all challenging vintages, and many of the wines have high stated alcohols. But some producers have succeeded in spite of the challenges.
Thierry ALEXANDRE
2018 Saint-Joseph Les Baraques
Located in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, one of the three original Saint-Joseph communes. The vines apparently date back to about 1960 and there is very little wine produced — about 1500 bottles in a normal year. This wine is dense with dark fruit, a smooth texture, and yet there is lightness, finesse, and elegance here. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LSJORGE18. 92+/A
Matthieu BARRET
2019 Saint-Joseph D86
Following others in other regions (e.g., Alexandria Occhipinti), Barret uses the designation of the main road through the appellation (D86) for this wine. It is labelled as “mis en bouteille”, so it may not be a wine made by Barret. Nevertheless, it is delicious with intense violet and dark plum fruit, a medium-weight body with silky texture, and very good freshness. Drink now or over the next ten-plus years. Ardeaseal closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LST JO7519. 91/A
B. BURGAUD
2017 Côte-Rôtie
This is pure, classic Côte-Rôtie with spiced dark fruit that is almost crystalline in its definition, finesse, a medium-weight body, and overall harmony. The wine can be enjoyed now and in 10+ years. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L 019. 93/A
Aurélien CHATAGNIER
2017 Saint-Joseph
Chatagnier is in the northern part of the Saint-Joseph appellation, just south of Côte-Rôtie. As with earlier bottles I’ve had from him, I’m favorably impressed. This wine has a smoky, perfumed nose, spiced dark cherry fruit, a velvet texture, and elegance despite the medium-full body. The wine drinks well already and I would imagine it to reach it’s peak state in 4-5 years and then hold for some years after that. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L1703. 91/A
2020 Saint-Joseph La Sybarite
This is an extremely dense, extracted wine, but one that is extremely inexpressive in its dark fruits over four days. Is there a future? Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 2008. ?
Domaine COMBIER
2020 Crozes-Hermitage
This wine probably still needs a few years to fully mature. It is medium-full with a velvet body and ample dark fruits. Balance is very good here. Certified organic. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L CH02. 88/B+
Pierre et Jérôme COURSODON
2021 Saint-Joseph Silice white
This is correct, modern Saint-Joseph made entirely from Marsanne and fermented and raised in tank. The wine has crisp underlying acidity with stoniness and subtle lime hints that with time open to quince and mango. The wine is quite reductive and ideally should be decanted well ahead of serving or given several years of cellaring. But there’s no real soul here. DIAM 10 closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Lot L20101. 87/B-
Christophe CURTAT
2019 Crozes-Hermitage Fées des Champs
Curtat continues to impress me, no matter what the vintage. In 2019, with many producers having wines that came in well above 14% alcohol, Curtat as a balanced wine, stated at 13.%(sic). The wine has slightly smoky aromas and flavors to go with the blue fruits. It is medium-weight with a velvet texture. It should make for excellent drinking over the 6-8+ years. DIAM 5 closure. 90/A
2020 Vin de France Les Gros
The label says “mis en bouteille” so it is not clear that Curtat had anything to do with the making of this wine. At any rate, it is pure Syrah made in a very fruity, nouveau-ish fashion. It is light and smooth with grapy dark plum and raspberry fruit and some violets. Not for serious drinking, but fine for picnics, barbecues, and the like. DIAM 3 closure. 13% stated alcohol. 85/B
Emmanuel DARNAUD
2019 Crozes-Hermitage Mise en Bouche
Many Crozes-Hermitages these days are showing the qualities of serious wines, but this one — as the name Mise en Bouche (appetizer or opening act) implies — is just gulpably delicious and not meant for much concentration. The wine has smoky blueberry aromas; the mouth is round and velvety with blueberry and other dark fruits. I’d drink this wine over the next 3-5 years. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot L 01. 87/B-