As indicated in the previous post, 2018 is not an easy vintage to get right.
Guy FARGE
Farge is located in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, the heart of the traditional Saint-Joseph appellation. I’ve previously been impressed with the 2016s and 2017s; less so with these 2018s -- the first year that son Thomas has taken over the production on his own, and the wines show some unevenness in what was admittedly a challenging vintage.
Whites:
2018 Saint-Péray Grain de Silex
From clay-limestone soils, this wine unusually is 90% Roussanne (and 10% Marsanne). The Roussanne gives the wine fatness to go with ripe apricot fruit, an oily texture, some minerality, and enough freshness. A little atypical for Saint-Péray, but very enjoyable. DIAM 5 closure. 14.1% Stated alcohol. 90/A
2018 Saint-Joseph Vania
This wine is 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne grown on granite soils, raised half in 400-liter barrels that are five-years old and half in stainless steel. The wine is round and fresh with attractive apricot fruit, floral notes, and spices, and an oily texture. It is an attractive wine for drinking over the next year or two. DIAM 1 closure. 14.1% stated alcohol. 89/A-
Reds:
2018 Saint-Joseph Terroir de Granit
At present, this is a very disjointed wine, only beginning to come together several days after opening. The wine is quite floral, unusually resembling the Saint-Josephs near Côte-Rôtie, as opposed to those near Hermitage, where this one comes from. The mouth is rich and dense with spicy dark plum fruit, and the acidity seems low but not deficient. It’s a wine that can provide pleasure if held to maturity, but I have no idea when that will be. 14.3% stated alcohol. DIAM 5 closure. 86(+)/C
2018 Saint-Joseph Passion des Terroirs
This wine is from Farge’s oldest vines -- more than 100 years. It is modest, but not deficient, in acidity with a velvet texture, dark fruits, spices, and rose elements. I’d drink over the next 4-5 years, but the balance should permit longer aging. 14.1% stated alcohol. DIAM 10 closure. 90/A-
2018 Cornas Harmonie
This is a forward Cornas that is already approachable with smoky blueberry fruit and a velvet texture with a touch of bitterness on the finish. The wine has good freshness. The vines are primarily located in the Reynard lieu-dit, with some in the Sauman lieu-dit. I’d drink over the next 12-15 years. 14.1% stated alcohol. DIAM 10 closure. 91/A-
2018 Cornas Reynard
This wine is from older vines and all owned by Farge. The wine is unformed and low in acidity, with plenty of depth and tannin showing, dark fruits, and black olives. Maybe it will have a (brief?) period of attractive drinking, but given the elevated price for this wine, I’ll not be cellaring it to find out. 14.1% stated alcohol. DIAM 10 closure. ?
MONIER PERRÉOL/MONIER/PERRÉOL
This estate’s wines confusingly are sold under any and all of the three labels above: Domaine Monier Perréol, Domaine Monnier, Domaine Perréol.
Certified organic and biodynamic.
White:
2019 Saint-Joseph
Entirely from Marsanne grown on granitic and and loess soils, this wine strongly shows gunflint and yellow fruit aromas and flavors in a firm, steely body with some tension. It should provide drinking at its top level for 2-3 years, maybe longer (I have no experience aging the white from here). Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot 19/01. 89/B+
Red:
2018 Saint-Joseph
A superb wine with intensity and concentration to its dark fruits, good salinity and soy notes. Delicious now, but a long future ahead for this wine. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot 18/06. 91/A
2018 Saint-Joseph Châtelet
Rricher and heavier than the straight Saint-Joseph, but I find this wine less lively and less energetic, although still of interest for its somewhat dusty dark and red plum fruits. Plenty of umami here. I’d guess it to drink well over the next 10-15 years. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot 18/08. 88/B