More Recently Tasted Jura: Dugois, Gahier, Château Gréa, Les Matheny/Emeric Foléat, Domaine du Pélican/Marquis d'Angerville

 DUGOIS

2016 Arbois   Savagnin   Sous voile

This is a classic Savagnin in the oxidative style — walnut aromas and flavors in a medium-weight body with smoothness, some firmness, and good freshness. Great for cheeses, especially those of the Jura region, and poultry. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. 91/A


2018 Arbois   Trousseau   Grevillière

Classic Trousseau with a medium-light body and red raspberry and currant fruit, good freshness. Drink over the next 5-6 years. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. 90/A




Michel GAHIER


2018 Arbois  Chardonnay  Les Follasses

These days, almost all Chardonnay that I come across from the Jura is made in the fresh, topped-up (ouillé) style; this wine is not -- it is made sous voile, although the fact that I am buying it in California less 21 months after the vintage indicates that the time of exposure to oxygen is relatively limited. Slightly cloudy appearance. Subtle hazelnut and honey aromas and flavors, medium-weight body, good acidity. This is a wine that should be able to take long aging. Cork Closure. Lot L18 B. 12% stated alcohol. 89/B+




Château GRÉA


2018 Côtes-du-Jura  Chardonnay


Lightly buttery, a bit of minerality, and silky smooth, this wine has some personality, but it seems to be halfway between a Côte d’Or and a Côtes-du-Jura Chardonnay in style. By no means unpleasant to drink and can be described as good for what it is (lower price level). The estate is located in Rotalier. Agglomerate cork. 12.5% stated alcohol.  86/B-




Les MATHENY/Emeric FOLÉAT


2018 Arbois   Pinot Trousseau

Foléat worked for eight years with the legendary Jacques Puffeny. This blend of roughly equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Trousseau, raised in neutral demi-muids, is delicious already and should last 4-5 years, at least. The wine is light and smooth with fresh, expressive red raspberry fruit.  Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 1. 91/A




Domaine du PÉLICAN/Marquis d’ANGERVILLE


This is the excellent Jura estate of Guillaume d’Angerville, of the great Volnay estate Marquis d’Angerville, and François Duvivier, régisseur of the d’Angerville's Volnay estate. Certified organic and biodynamic.


2018 Arbois   Pinot Noir

A Pinot Noir that reflects its Jura origins rather than trying to be a Côte d’Or lookalike. The wine is light, intense, nervy, and even a bit sour from the acidity with cranberry and other red fruits. Very good energy here, but also with a dignified calm. This is the first pure Pinot Noir from the estate; aged in barriques and larger casks, none of which is new. Cork Closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A


2019 Arbois Pinot Noir   Clos Saint-Laurent

This is a light version of Pinot Noir with finesse to go with refined red cherry and red currant fruit and some minerality, but the relaxed acidity and higher alcohol make this a less energetic, less structured, and less interesting wine than the 2018. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol.  88/B