More evidence of the inconsistency of recent vintages in the region.
All wines are red unless otherwise noted.
DUMIEN-SERRETTE
2019 Cornas Patou
Patou is in the southern sector of Cornas and this wine is typical of my experience with wines of Dumien-Serrette over the years. The nose has smoky dark fruits typical of Cornas. The mouth is lighter than some with good, forward expression of the smoky dark fruits, and the tannins are round. Indeed, this wine drinks well already, although it has the balance to go 10-15 years. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 01. 91/B+
Alain GRAILLOT
Tragically, Alain Graillot passed away earlier this year. I’ve been a fan since I first tasted his wine, the 1986 vintage, which I believe was the second one he made. For the past several years, Alain’s son, Maxime, has made the wines (undoubtedly with input from Alain) in Alain’s style rather than the different (and less attractive to me) style of Maxime’s Domaine des Lises and Equis labels.
2017 Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude
La Guiraude is Graillot’s “superior" cuvée, made from a selection of best barrels. I rarely bother to taste it any more because over the decades I’ve consistently found it to be more extracted and showing more oak than the regular bottling, but lacking the overall balance of the regular bottling. And once again, that’s the case here: some oak, some roasted meat and dark fruits, and relatively low acidity. Cork closure. Lot L2. 13% stated alcohol. 87/B-
2018 Crozes-Hermitage
Over the thirty-five years or so that I’ve been drinking Graillot’s wines, I’ve never had one like this. At room temperature, the wine has roasted, overripe aromas and flavors that seem to belie the 13.5% stated alcohol. But cooled down to refrigerator temperature, the wine becomes much more focused and in line with expectations, showing smoky dark berry aromas and flavors in a medium-weight body. It’s not a wine I’d gamble on by cellaring very long. Cork closure. Lot L.3. 86/C
Bernard GRIPA
2018 Saint-Joseph
The 14.5% stated alcohol put me off, but there is only a little burn, and the fruit is ripe, but not overripe, while the body is medium-weight. Not my favorite wine from this outstanding estate, but it’ll willingly drink it if it’s set on the table before me. Cork closure. Lot L 118. 89/B
2020 Saint-Joseph
Another very ripe vintage, but somewhat better with a real perception of the Mauves-based Saint-Josephs here. Velvet texture, but also a steely core, plenty of red and dark plum fruit, a hint of violet, medium-weight body. Good Saint-Joseph, but no rival to the best that Gripa can produce. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot L120. 90/B+
Domaine des HAUTS CHÂSSIS/F. FAUGIER
2018 Saint-Joseph . . . . . ?
This producer has been primarily known for Crozes-Hermitage, but apparently found some vines north of Arras, in the central zone of Saint-Joseph, the potential of which is just being discovered. The wine is medium-weight with a good core of dark Syrah fruit and some velvet on the palate. The back label suggests drinking over the next five years, and that sounds about right. Cork closure. 13.30% stated alcohol. Lot L28SJCSEPH18. 89/B
JAMET/Corinne, Jean-Paul, Fanny & Loïc JAMET
2020 Côtes du Rhône blanc
This wine is crisp and mineral with spiciness from the Viognier. It’s medium-light in weight and and shows good acidic grip and freshness. I’d drink it over the next 4-5 years. The wine is about 60% Marsanne, 30% Viognier, 7% Roussane, and 3% Grenache blanc; alcoholic and malolactic fermentations partly in oak and partly in tank. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. 88/A-