There are outstanding values to be had from Loire reds, but they may not be easy to find, as 2016 and 2017 had very small harvests.
Famille AMIRAULT-GROSBOIS
2016 Vin de France Frozen Guys
Two top central Loire producers (Xavier Amirault and Nicolas Grosbois) have been combining to produce a St-Nicolas de Bourgueil in the past. The early morning freeze on 27 April 2016 wiped out 80% of their vineyard. In order to make up as much of the lost quantity as possible, they sought out Cabernet Franc to purchase. They made sure that the grapes came from certified organic producers and were hand picked, but as other appellations were involved, it was necessary to declassify the wine to Vin de France. The result is startlingly good: pure, intense, and precise raspberry fruit in a medium-light body with good crispness. As this is only allowed a Vin de France label, there is a limit to the price that can be asked, resulting in a great bargain for consumers. Certified organic. 13.5% stated alcohol (it doesn’t show). Lot LAGFFG. 88/A
2015 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Les Silices
Here is one of the 2015 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil that the pair made under more normal conditions. The wine is medium-weight with spiced red cherry fruit, good intensity, and good grip. It drinks well now but also has the balance to age a decade, maybe more. Certified organic. 12.5% stated alcohol. 90/A
Bernard BAUDRY
Organic wines.
2015 Chinon
This is classic Chinon with spicy dark fruit aromas and flavors, smoothness but still a little grip, and a medium-light body. It’s a pleasurable wine that doesn’t require any thinking or reflection to enjoy. 20% gravel soils, 80% hillside vineyards. Certified organic. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L20517. 87/B
Catherine et Pierre BRETON
Organic and biodynamic.
2015 Chinon Beaumont
This is a light, pleasant version of Chinon with spicy dark fruit, but not much in the way of depth, intensity, or complexity. It is a good wine for drinking when you’re not really focused on the wine. 12% stated alcohol. 87/B
2015 Bourgueil Les Galichets
The Galichets is from vines dating to the 1950s on gravelly soils. The wine is raised in stainless steel and intended for young drinking. The mushroom aromas are followed by a light, almost ethereal, mouth with red cherry and strawberry fruits and a silky texture. 12% stated alcohol. 91/A
Domaine de la CHANTELEUSERIE/Thierry BOUCARD
2016 Bourgueil Cuvée Beauvais
This wine is broad and rich in a medium-weight body with dark and red fruits and just a touch of spice. It’s a straight-forward wine that manages to give plenty of pleasure. Lot L.BV15. 13% stated alcohol. 88/B
2016 Bourgueil Cuvée des Alouettes
The nose and mouth here are salty with red fruits and a medium-weight body with some grip. I would caution, however, that this wine is sealed with a composition cork and I am finding that such closures require substantial airing until the wine shows its full potential: decant an hour or two, at least, before serving. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L.AL16. 87/B
Patrice COLIN
From an appellation that I hardly ever see, these are outstanding quality wines at very attractive prices.
Certified organic
2016 Coteaux du Vendômois Pierre François rouge
This wine is a mixture of Pineau d’Aunis, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. The wine is medium-weight with good penetration to its spicy dark berry fruits. Excellent value for an inexpensive wine. The back label says 5 years of aging potential. Lot nº 166. 12.3% stated alcohol. 89/A
2016 Coteaux du Vendômois vieilles vignes rouge
This wine is made from the same three grape types as the Pierre François: Pinot d’Aunis, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. The vines here range from 50 to 100 years in age. The wine is medium-weight with dense, spicy raspberry fruit, some suggestions of soy, and very good finesse. The back label gives aging potential as ten years. Lot nº 167. 12.55% stated alcohol. 90(+)/A