Fritz HAAG (Mosel) -- 2017 from Bottle

(Originally published 20 October 2018)

Production was 30% less than normal, said Oliver Haag. In part, it was due to the frost, but also, the juice in the grapes was less than normal.

This is an outstanding collection of wines. The GG’s especially are notable.

2017 Riesling trocken
Round, mineral, dry, good entry level. 87(+)/B

2017 Brauneberger "J" Riesling trocken
80-90% from Juffer, rest from Juffer-Sonnenuhr. Clean, crisp, Brauneberger tension. Clear, steely, medium-weight. 90(+)/B+

2017 (Brauneberger) Juffer Riesling GG
Leesy nose. Hint of creaminess in texture, pure, steely, energetic, more tension than usual. Fermented 1/3 in old wood, 2/3 in stainless steel. 93/A

2017 (Brauneberger) Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling GG
Deeper, more tension and depth; rockiness and earthiness to minerality, crisp. Very energetic. Lime and stones, blue slate fruit. 94/A

2017 Riesling (feinherb)
Medium-dry, acidity makes it seem dry, though. Crisp on tongue with just a bit of sugar on the finish. Mineral and steely. 89/A-

2017 Brauneberger Riesling (feinherb)
Mineral and a little earthy. Tastes dry. A bit of licorice here. 90/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling (feinherb)
Just a touch of sugar showing through. Round with minerality. 91/A

2017 Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett
Lemony, mineral, light, pure energetic. Only a little sweetness. 92/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese
Intense mineral lime nose. Medium-light on palate, some of the roundness of Juffer vineyard but also with good energy. 92/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
Very stony nose. Stony, penetrating in mouth; good acidity that keeps sweetness moderate. A very racy wine with good energy, notable finesse. 93/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese #14 (auction)
Nose not as mineral, electric, and stony. Mouth not as marked by the acidity, showing more sweetness, good length. Less energy, though, more Auslese-like. 92/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese
Sweet, layered, but still with energy, minerality, clarity; steely. Small amount of botrytis. 93/A-

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (#6)
Minerality with honey in the nose. Tightly-wound, energetic, good acidity, nervy, electric on the tongue, light on the palate. Pure, with finesse. APN 6 18. 95/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10
Stony nose. Crisp, pure, a little sweeter than the previous, more weight here, with some honeyed fruit, nice filigree. 94/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese gold capsule
Crisp, honeyed, good acidity, excellent depth. Sweet but the acidity is there to balance. 94/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule
Light, fresh, deep, not dominated by botrytis. There is honey here, but with lime, some tropical, and finesse. Outstanding length. Intense and penetrating. 95/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule #12
Honey and some tropical, very sweet, but still light. Intense, balanced, great richness notwithstanding. 95/A

2017 Braunberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese long gold capsule #15 (auction)
Very sweet with intense acidity, honeyed fruit, lightness and finesse. 97/A+

2017 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Beerenauslese
Great acidity and sweetness, very nervy wine with great purity and precision; very long. Lightness and finesse. 97/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese
Great minerality, great acidity, and lots of sweetness with more weight than the Juffer but still at least as much elegance and finesse. 98/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
Even more intense and more weight but with lightness in freshness, lots of energy, honey, brown sugar, lemon. 98(+)/A

2017 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese #18 (will be an auction wine in the future)
Glazed grapefruit, lemon, deep, chewy, dense, long, pure, lively, long; amazing combination of concentration and lightness, sweetness and acidity. 98(+)/A