More evidence of the unevenness of the 2017 and 2018 vintages:
Marie et Pierre BÉNETIÈRE
2017 Côte-Rôtie Cordeloux
With some time in the decanter to clear up the nose, this is pleasant but not profound Côte-Rôtie. There’s some spice to the dark fruits and a luscious texture, but the wine lacks the precision and energy of a still better wine. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot 01. 90/B
Stéphane ROUSSET
Raymond Roure owned what, along with Jaboulet’s Domaine Thalabert, was considered the best vineyard land in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation. Some years ago, Jaboulet bought most of Roure’s holdings, but part of it went to his nephew, Robert Rousset. Robert’s son Stéphane has now taken over the domaine.
White wine:
2016 Crozes-Hermitage
A wine with a waxy aromas, bit of minerality and high acidity for a white Rhône, but otherwise without character or interest. Cork closure. 84/D
Red wines:
2017 Crozes-Hermitage
This is quite a ripe wine, but within the bounds of my palate. The wine is silky on the palate, medium-full in weight, and features strawberry, red currant, and blackberry fruit. Acidity is moderate but correct. It is a wine for rich dishes such as game and stews. I’d drink over the next 4-6 years. Cork closure. 88/A-
2017 Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudières
Riper than the regular 2017 Crozes here, slightly lower acidity, but otherwise quite similar. I’d drink over the next few years. Cork closure. 88/A-
2018 Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudières
Bacon and dark fruits; more structure and acidity than the 2017, some tannins here, still a wine for grills and ragouts. A very good effort here. Cork closure. 90/A
2017 Saint-Joseph
From vines in the Rivoire lieu-dit in Tournon that date to the 1950s through the 1980s, this wine is rich and juicy, yet shows Saint-Joseph structure and relative austerity compared to the Crozes. Strawberry and other red fruits appear in the nose and mouth and the tannins are round. This wine is quite modest in acidity, so I’d drink it over the next 3-5 years. Cork closure. 88/B
2018 Saint-Joseph
A contrast to the 2017: less ripe, tighter structure, more acidity, and violets and dark plums for aromas and flavors. The wine is drinkable now, but should age well for 10-15 years, maybe longer. Cork closure. 92/A
Cave SAINT-DÉSIRAT
2020 Saint-Joseph Grand Apollon rouge
This is an early-drinking cuvée, as is evidenced by the fact that it was on store shelves in Paris in June 2021. But there’s nothing light or simple about the wine. In fact, it shows good density, medium weight, a smooth texture, and red and dark plum fruits. Drink over the next 3-5 years, but it may well last longer. 13.5% stated alcohol. 88/B+