(Originally published 19 October 2018.)
For a number of years, low yields have been a problem, and so driving the prices of these wines. 2017 was no exception, with a production of only 18 hl/ha. Thirty percent of the harvest was lost in the spring frost; the weather then continued dry until June, when there was some rain. Some botrytis developed in August, but not a lot, rather like 2006 and not as much as in some other years. The harvest was from 25 September to 18 October. Acidities are normal.
For a number of years, low yields have been a problem, and so driving the prices of these wines. 2017 was no exception, with a production of only 18 hl/ha. Thirty percent of the harvest was lost in the spring frost; the weather then continued dry until June, when there was some rain. Some botrytis developed in August, but not a lot, rather like 2006 and not as much as in some other years. The harvest was from 25 September to 18 October. Acidities are normal.
2017 Scharzhof Riesling
Pure, stony, off dry, apple, penetrating. 90/A
2017 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett
Sweet. Sharpness of acidity against fruit. Clear, very young. 92/A
2017 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben
Old vine breadth. Crystalline, long. Not as much acidity as previous wine — different style, not as nervy. 92/A
2017 Wiltinger Brauner Kupp Riesling Spätlese*
Floral nose, stony. Beautifully pure, stony, long, acidity plays against sugar, not terribly sweet because of acidity. Long, such presence to this wine. But very, very young. 94/A
2017 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Spätlese (auction)*
Very stony nose. Intense, dense, long, sweeter, more like an Auslese in style, which is not surprising for an auction wine. Incipient peach. 94/A
2017 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese
Incredibly stony, deep nose; floral, thyme. Round, pure, so well-defined, pure, and clear. Medium weight. Not especially nervy right now but has great presence. 95/A+
2017 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese
Here the botrytis begins. Grapes were dry, and extra pressed. Strong botrytis nose. Rich mouth, golden fruit, concentrated, intense, sharp, peach and apricot. 96/A
2017 Scharzhofberger Auslese (gold capsule)
Even more botrytis in the nose — volatile acidity lifts it straight into nostrils. Very heavy golden fruits with slight thyme. Intense, very dense, long, balanced, pure, clear, apple and peach 96/A
2017 Wiltinger Braune Riesling Kupp Auslese*
Not as concentrated or showing as strongly botrytis as the two Scharzhofberger Auslesen. Lighter in body, less powerful, not showing the acidity. A bit of a comedown when tasted after them. Peach. 94/A
* The Wiltinger Braune Kupp wines are from the Le Gallais property. Müller has a half interest in the estate and makes the wines.