Maxime Cheurlin seems to be adding new wines with each visit I make.
Malolactic fermentations were late here, only finishing shortly before I tasted; the wines had not yet been racked.
Wines designated with an asterisk (*) are negociant wines bottled under the Maxime Cheurlin-Noëllat label; others are Domaine Georges Noëllat.
2017 Meursault 1er Cru Cras
This white comes from vines purchased from an estate that always followed organic practices. The vines are about 40-50 years-old. The nose is buttery and stony; the mouth silky smooth, medium-weight, and has long, butter and mineral flavors. (91-94)
Switching to reds:
2017 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits*
From purchased grapes that Cheurlin vinifies, this wine is bright and pure with precise red currant and strawberry fruit, a medium-light body, and overall freshness. (88-90)
2017 Beaune 1er Cru Les Tuvilains
This wine is pure and clear, and a bit rounder and meatier than the previous wine. (87-89)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Echézeaux
This well-situated lieu-dit has vines that are about 40-45 years-old. The wine is nervy and shows good freshness with red fruits, clarity, and a medium-light body. (88-91)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys
The Gevrey-Fontenys is medium-weight with pure red fruits, a smooth texture, and moderate acidity. (87-90)
2017 Vosne-Romanée
The village Vosne has spicy red and dark fruits, freshness, and good energy. (89-92)
2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes*
Here we have red fruits, nervosity, and a tightly-wound wine with just a bit of the sucrosity of texture that sometimes shows in the vintage. (90-93)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots
Noëllat’s Nuits-Boudots has dark fruits with some spices, good depth, and a slight sappiness to the texture. It is a good example of the Boudots terroir. (91-94)
2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes
The Vosne-Chaumes features spicy dark fruits in a medium-light body with good energy. (92-94)
2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts
The Vosne-Petits Monts features intense spiced red cherry aromas and flavors. The wine is medium-weight, light on the palate, and expressive — like the Boudots, it is a good expression of the terroir. (93-95)
2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
The Vosne-Beaux Monts is racy and expressive with red fruits and Beaux Monts energy, plus very good depth. (92-95)
2017 Clos-Vougeot*
This wine is from purchased grapes that Maxime Cheurlin vinified. The vines are “by Grands Pertuis”, which means the upper part of the vineyard, near Grands-Echézeaux. The wine shows black raspberry fruit typical of Clos-Vougeot and a slight sappiness of texture. It is forward and attractive. (92-94)
2017 Echézeaux
From the Champs Traversins lieu-dit, this wine is dense with red and dark fruits, clarity, and a touch of sappiness. It is rather straightforward for now. (91-93)
2017 Grands-Echézeaux
Noëllat’s Grands-Echézeaux has dark fruit, some sappiness, and good clarity and length. It will need some time in bottle, though. (93-95)