Louis Max, which originated in 1859, is both a negociant and an estate. The estate has 20 hectares of holdings in Mercurey and Rully.
I’ve had decent wines from Max in the past, but never anything exciting enough to cause me to visit. But this year, when making my appointment to taste at David Duband’s estate, he mentioned that he is now also responsible for the wines at Max and asked if I wanted to taste them. I had a small opening in my schedule and so stopped by to taste the wines.
The estate has been organic since 2006.
On the whole, I found the wines good, but not exceptional. As my notes indicate, some of the wines may still have been suffering from bottle shock; also, I expect that as David gets more experience with the vineyards, we may see individual modifications that will lead to still better wines.
All wines below are estate wines unless otherwise indicated.
We start with the whites, which have a maximum of 20% new oak on them; there is no bâtonnage (stirring of the lees).
2017 Mercurey Les Caudroyes
Rich, round, good minerality. Despite richness, good supporting acidity. 87(+)/B
2017 Mercurey Les Rochelles
Rounder, a bit more glycerine, not quite as mineral, a bit more austere. Maybe still some bottle shock. 86/B-
2017 Rully Les Plantenays
More mineral in nose. Lighter in mouth, not quite as concentrated but good minerality. Again, maybe still some bottle shock. 86(+)/B-
2017 St. Romain
From purchased grapes. Dense round, some power, but a touch gritty. A bit neutral for now; possible bottle shock, still. 86/B-
2017 Meursault
From purchased grapes. Several lieux-dits. Butter in nose and mouth, oily texture, dense. Relatively inexpressive — once again, may be due to recent bottling. 86+/B-
For the reds:
2017 Bourgogne
This wine is from estate grapes in Mercurey; 30% whole clusters; 15% new wood. The wine is fleshy, round, smooth, deep simple pleasing strawberry jam fruit. (86-88)
2017 Mercurey
Mostly from the Les Caudroyes vineyard; 30% whole clusters. Smooth, simple strawberry jam, moderate acidity. (85-87)
2017 Mercrurey Clos La Marche
This vineyard is a monopole of Louis Max. It is fresher than the preceding, smooth, a bit darker in fruit, with more complexity and structure, although still the soft acidity one can find in the vintage. 50% whole cluster (87-89)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin
From purchased grapes. Some wild Gevrey fruit, red and dark, grapy, medium-light, smooth, quite dense; needs more time. 40% whole clusters. (86-88)
2017 Mercurey 1er Cru Les Vasées
50% whole cluster. Smooth, red and dark fruit, moderate acidity, good depth. 87+/B
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges
From purchased grapes; 50% whole clusters. Darker fruit, smooth, round, no tannins showing. Dark plums. Easy to approach, simple. (86-88)