And Even Yet More Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted: Cave de Tain, Vernay, Villard, Vins de Vienne

All wines are red, except as otherwise noted.


Cave de TAIN


Cave de Tain is the major (but not only) cooperative in the Northern Rhône. Traditionally, it’s had a more-than-decent reputation, but I confess to not having tasted wines from this source for many years, during which time a significant number of cooperative members have left to make their own wines.


2019 Saint-Joseph   Terre de Violette

The Cave produces multiple cuvées of Saint-Joseph, and this one is, I believe, near the bottom of the hierarchy. Judged just as Syrah, this is a good wine for the money. Judged as Saint-Joseph, it is mediocre — there are some violets in the nose, as the name states, but otherwise little Saint-Joseph character. The wine is round and full with dark plums and other dark fruits and round tannins. Drink over the next 3-5 years. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol.  86/C


2021 Crozes-Hermitage   Les 3 Lys

This wine restores some of my faith in the Cave de Tain and also holds out promise for the 2021 vintage. The wine is medium-light with red fruits, some minerality and good acidity for a Crozes, and it has a pleasing smooth texture. The wine should be at its best over the next 6-10 years. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol.  88/B+




Domaine Georges VERNAY/Christine VERNAY


2019 Saint-Joseph    Terres d’Encre

Vernay’s Saint-Josephs come from the northern end of the appellation, where the wines often bear a strong resemblance to Côte-Rôtie. That certainly is the case here. The wine has spicy dark fruits, a medium-light body, and excellent intensity and penetration. I don’t have experience with older vintages of this wine, but based on the balance, I would expect that the wine will age well. Nevertheless, it is so delicious for current drinking, why wait? Organic agriculture (although no certification on the label). Cork closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Lot L.05.  92/A




François VILLARD


2020 Saint-Joseph   Poivre et Sol

This negociant wine is a fine example of wine from the northern sector of Saint-Joseph done in a modernist style. With 60% whole clusters, the wine was fermented in stainless steel and open wood casks and then put in barrels that were 3-6 years old. The result is a smooth texture with medium-weight and mineral dark fruits. The wine is delicious for immediate drinking and the producer’s website says it has a potential cellar life of 12 years. DIAM 30 closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot LPS20.  90/B+




Les VINS DE VIENNE


2019 Saint-Joseph

Vins de Vienne is a cooperative venture of three producers in the northern part of the Rhône: Cuilleron, Villard, and Gaillard. I find this wine rather clumsy with a medium-weight body, moderate acidity, dark fruits, and no precision. Drink young. DIAM 3 closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot SJ0193A1. 85/D