Alas, nature has not been kind to Jura producers, and just as demand was beginning to lift off (at least in certain markets), freezes have killed off much of the recent crops. Nevertheless, these are often fascinating and highly original wines and worthy of your seeking them out.
L’AIGLE À DEUX TÊTES/Henri LEROY
2018 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay
This is an attractive, if somewhat simple, Chardonnay with steeliness, a medium-light body, and just a touch of nuttiness. It appears to be a negociant wine. 12.5% stated alcohol. 88/B
2018 Côtes du Jura Melon à Queue Rouge Derrière la Roche
Depending on whom you talk to, Melon à Queue Rouge is either a type of Chardonnay with a red stalk or a separate grape type (the back label, which may have been ordered by the US importer, says that the wine is 100% Chardonnay). This wine resembles a Côte de Beaune Chardonnay in its nutty aromas and flavors, and there’s also some of the special Jura minerality. I don’t know about the history of aging, but this wine already drinks well with its smooth texture, medium-light body, and sufficient acidity. Cork closure. 13.8% stated alcohol. 91/A
2018 Côtes du Jura Naturé
Naturé is a name sometimes used in the Jura for non-oxidative style Savagnin. The nose is complex with floral elements plus a bit of tropical fruit and almonds. The mouth is light on the palate with roundness, enough acidity to hold everything together, stone fruit flavors, and plenty of salinity. 13.0% stated alcohol. 90/A
2019 Côtes du Jura Trousseau
This is a good, everyday Trousseau, light red in color with a light body and pleasing, if simple, red cherry fruit. Cork closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. 87/B
Domaine BAUD Génération 9
2017 L’Étoile Chardonnay
This is a somewhat austere, mineral wine with shy white peach fruit in a medium-light body, all supported by good acidity. A bit of chalk on the finish. Cork closure. 13.5% state alcohol. 89/B+
Jean BOURDY
Certified biodynamic.
2016 Côtes-du-Jura Chardonnay
This wine appears to have been topped-up while in old oak, but spent several years in cask before being bottled. The result is not an oxidative/oxidized wine, but one that shows development to its stony Chardonnay fruit. The wine is light on the palate with some oiliness of texture and finesse to its layered, mineral fruit. No hint of oak, as only old barrels in this cellar. As far as I can tell, there is no way to distinguish this label from the Côtes-du-Jura Savagnin except by a note the importer has added on the back label. That back label also suggests serving at 60-65ºF, to which I would add, preferably in a large Burgundy-style glass. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A
2018 Côtes-du-Jura rouge
From equal portions of Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard, this wine is medium-weight with some density and spicy cranberry fruit that for the moment shows the Trousseau more than the other two grape types. Roses in the nose are followed in the mouth with a smooth texture and round tannins under the cranberries, making this an attractive wine for drinking already -- but there is some reduction, so plan on decanting first. Serve cool; good for charcuterie, meats, and cheeses. Cork closure. 89/B+
Domaine des CARLINES
An estate that dates only to 2015, with vines in the Château Chalon region. These wines are my first experience with this producer and I am impressed. All the wines below are made in the non-oxidative (ouillé) style, that is, the barrels are regularly topped up.
Note: alcohols stated below are for bottles sourced in the United States. It is not inconceivable that the high alcohols shown are not accurate but are used to avoid U.S. tariffs on French wines with alcohols below 14% that were in existence at the time these wines were imported. Another possibility is that the severe frosts in 2017 that greatly reduced the Jura harvest may have concentrated the remaining crop to give wines of higher than usual alcohol.
2017 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Le Calvaire
Nutty, nervy, and mineral -- a very fine Chardonnay with medium-weight and no sense of the elevated alcohol. Cork closure. 14.4% stated alcohol. Lot LCAL17. 90/A-
2017 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay En Lya
Light in weight, a little nutty with minerality and finesse; slightly austere. Again, one would not guess the elevated alcohol. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot LLYA 17. 90/A-
2017 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Trémoulette
This wine actually shows more of what I think of as Côte de Beaune character than Jura character. The wine has hazelnut aromas, a creamy texture, and butter, lemon drop, and hazelnut flavors supported by decent acidity. A good Bourgogne blanc from near Meursault or a Meursault village would be my guess blind. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot L TRE 17. 89/B+
2017 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay-Savagnin La Vouivre
This is a mixture of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Savagnin with grapes from all the estate’s named vineyard. The wine is light in weight with delicacy, but not fragility, moderate acidity, smooth texture, and lightly floral yellow fruits and slight hints of honeysuckle and butter. Good for drinking now. Cork closure. 91/A
2018 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay-Savagnin La Vouivre
As with the 2017 above, this is a lovely blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Savagnin in the non-oxidative style, raised in barrels that are 3 to 5 years-old. The wine is light, crisp, and calm with good acidity and a light minerality and lime blossom that play against the honeysuckle flavors and aromas. I would suggest it for seafood dishes, light poultry, and cheese. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L VOU18. 91/A
2017 Côtes du Jura Savagnin En Beaumont
Mineral and iron aromas are followed in the mouth with quince and nutmeg flavors. Medium-weight, somewhat creamy texture and some piquancy. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot LBEA17. 91/A
2018 Côtes du Jura Poulsard
Poulsard is not an easy grape. Frequently it comes in a rosé color, but this one is ruby-colored, although quite transparent. The wine is light in weight and smooth in texture with red cherry fruit that is not, however, intense or deep. Lovers of Poulsard may be delighted by it, others less so. Cork closure. 11% stated alcohol. Lot LPOU18. 86/B
2018 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir
This is a dark, but not opaque, colored wine with grapy dark fruits and a silky texture plus some minerality. There’s finesse here and enjoyability. The wine resembles a cross between Beaujolais and a minor red Burgundy and is best drunk very cool, like a Beaujolais. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. 88/B
2019 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir
Very different from the 2018, this wine is lighter in color with simple cherry fruit, rusticity, a body that seems too big for the fruit (almost as if the wine had been overchaptalized, but does anyone chaptalize these days?), and a touch of heat on the finish. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. 86/C