With the exception of a questionable Josephshöfer GG, this is another outstanding group of wines from this famous estate in Marienlay.
2020 Weissburgunder trocken Schloss Marienlay
This wine is Kesselstatt’s estate Pinot Blanc. The wine is light on the palate with creaminess and roundness to go with lemony flavors and some raciness. With the elegant acidities of 2020, my sugar-sensitive palate picks up just a touch of sweetness (5.3 g/l residual sugar, 5.6 g/l acidity). It should be a good wine for white meats, fish, cheese, grilled vegetables, and the like. Screw cap closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 21. 86/B+
2020 Riesling trocken Schloss Marienlay
For what it is, the estate’s basic Riesling trocken, this is outstanding wine. The wine is medium-light in weight with noble austerity, stoniness, and very good energy. Drink it now as an aperitif or with fish or cheese, and it should last a decade or probably longer. Screw cap closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04 21. 90/B+
2020 (Kaseler) Nies’chen Riesling GG
This is a wine with beguiling, complex aromas and flavors centering around quince and incipient peach. The wine is light and floats in the mouth. If there were a bit more acidity to tighten the loose structure, the wine would be absolutely sensational. Cork closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 27 21. 91/A-
2020 (Graacher) Josephshöfer Riesling GG
Given the extremely successful Kabinett feinherb and the Spätlese from this vineyard (see below), I was most surprised by the weak showing for this wine. It is very closed at first and only begins to show (unfocused) fruit after being open for two days. The wine also seems to lack concentration and structure. A bad bottle? Cork closure.11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 26 21. 85?/D
2020 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett feinherb
Great complexity here with stony green fruits in the nose and mouth, a light body that seems to float in the mouth, and subtle, playful acidity that balances against the hinted sweetness. All bound together with a texture of silk. Very fine length. A hint of pineapple emerges after the wine is open a day, possibly suggesting slight botrytis. Cork closure. 9.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 21. 92/A
2020 (Graacher) Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett feinherb
This wine, from Kesselstatt’s Josephshöfer monopole vineyard, is pure delight to drink now, as was the 2019 version. The wine is subtle with precision, finesse, and depth to the slate-driven fruit, and excellent overall harmony. In the mouth, the wine is medium-light with a little creaminess to its silky texture. The acidity and sugar level make the wine taste off-dry, but perfectly balanced. Cork closure. 10.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 21. 92/A
2020 (Piesporter) Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett
An subtle expression of Goldtöpfchen with yellow peach skin fruit in a light-weight body with elegant acidity. A wine probably best for drinking on its own to appreciate its refinement. Cork closure. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 20 21. 91/A
2020 (Wehlener) Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
This is a stunning wine with pure, precise, deep apricot fruit, a silk texture, and enough acidity to assure freshness. It is ready to drink now and over the next 8-10 years, perhaps longer. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 24 21. 93/A+
2020 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese
Light and elegant in the mouth with the relaxed acidity of the vintage, stony, lemony fruit, and not too much sweetness, this wine is a delight to drink already. Cork closure. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 23 21. 93/A
2020 (Brauneberger) Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
The relaxed acidity of the 2020 vintage makes this an atypical Juffer-Sonnenuhr as the typical tension is lacking; nevertheless, this is a most attractive wine that drinks beautifully, already. The mouth is medium-light with a silky texture and the wine features tropical fruit, suggesting botrytis here. Cork closure. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 25 21. 92/A
2020 (Graacher) Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese
This is a gorgeous bottle that is drinking spectacularly already. It has a peach skin nose, a medium-light body, silky texture, and penetrating, pure peach and apricot fruit. Cork closure. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 22 21. 94/A
2019 (Piesporter) Goldtröpfchen Auslese #5 (Long Gold Capsule)
This is an exceptional Auslese with plenty of botrytis, making it perhaps more of a Beerenauslese than a Long Gold Cap in style. The botrytis is clean and pure and the wine is light and silky with very good penetration to go with the caramel and peach aromas and flavors. A show-stopper. Cork closure. 8.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 30 20. 96/A